Three more outdoor furniture questions

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Forum topic by Kaleb the Swede posted 05-29-2014 10:23 AM 1092 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kaleb the Swede

1835 posts in 1994 days

05-29-2014 10:23 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hey there Lumberjocks. Just wondering three more things when I building this outdoor table.

1. I am planning on putting ipe scraps on the bottom of the legs (the legs are maple which I know isn’t a great outdoor wood and will be painted; they came from pallets) I am using to help keep the moisture from becoming too much of a problem. Do I glue the scraps with the grain, or do I glue flat grain to the long grain (hope that makes sense)?

2. Titebond 3 or polyureathane glue for all of the glueing? I have both so it’s not as if I have to spend money.

3. Anyone ever use McCloskey’s Marine Spar Varnish? They have it at Ace Hardware by me, and I was thinking on giving it a try, reviews online are favorable just can’t find too much about it

Thanks a billion

The Swede

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

13 replies so far

View robscastle's profile


5090 posts in 2229 days

#1 posted 05-29-2014 10:34 AM

1. Not sure just what ipe scraps are but I would suggest the grain is aligned parallel with the ground.
2. Use III as polyureathane is not very durable in relation to holding power in the situation the Outdoor table will be in, nor is it as strong.
3. I use Marine Varnish on my outdoor furniture, however every 12 months it/they get a good rub down and recoated as I have found the varnish although UV rated does break down.

-- Regards Rob

View redSLED's profile


790 posts in 1917 days

#2 posted 05-29-2014 12:27 PM

A slice of rubber between your ipe foot pads and the maple leg bottoms will give you a nice moisture barrier as well.

IMO, if your table was all soft wood, I’d say polyurethane caulking glue clamped tight 24 hrs would be fine for all wood-to-wood for your outdoor table – I have never had separation problems in said applications. But with the maple I am more inclined to go the Titebond route.

-- Perfection is the difference between too much and not enough.

View mahdee's profile


3888 posts in 1792 days

#3 posted 05-29-2014 12:34 PM

Hi Kaleb,
I would use a dowel to attach the ipe to the base and not glue them so they can be replaced when needed. The Grizzly glue is water proof as tb glue is water resistance. Spar varnish is good stuff. As rob said, it needs to be maintained just like everything else outdoors. Rustolum has come up with a new “life time” paint. ACE also has this paint that supposed to last a long time. Like to see the final product.


View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

20594 posts in 3130 days

#4 posted 05-29-2014 12:36 PM

Hi Kaleb!!
1) I would use the grain pattern the same on both because they will expand and contract the same direction but maybe not at the exact same rate. I have used nylon as feet on one project to do just the same thing you are. I would put one or two dowels in the the Ipe pieces so you have holding power up into both woods. drill one and then use those spotting points they use for dowels to get the to line up perfectly. I’d drill the holes first in the long pieces.

2) Titebond 3 or epoxy!

3) If you are painting the maple, would the varnish be for the Ipe? I don’t know about the Ipe, but cedar does not like varnish- it sheds it because of the oil in the wood. Ipe might too. Teak oil might be the thing to use on the Ipe!!

Good luck, Kaleb!!!!!.................Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Buckethead's profile


3194 posts in 1893 days

#5 posted 05-29-2014 12:47 PM

Ipe doesn’t glue well. Use acetone or mineral spirits to clean the oils thoroughly prior to gluing. Do it twice.

I would orient the Ipe with the grain horizontal. I would also screw it from below. You could even forgo glue altogether.

Now I know that isn’t the way of the purist, but it is IMO the proper way to address this situation.

And the Ipe feet will long outlast the maple. Pre-drill and countersink stainless steel screws. Another benefit to this is that you could paint the bottom of the maple prior to attaching the Ipe.

I would advise against any type of inset to allow the maple to rest inside the Ipe. It would look good, but allow water to collect. Bad for the maple.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1835 posts in 1994 days

#6 posted 05-29-2014 01:45 PM

Thanks a million guys. I was planning on screwing the ipe into the maple. I am only painting the legs, the top will be simply varnished. The acetone was the plan, for glueing the ipe. Once again thanks, you helped a lot.

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

29390 posts in 2363 days

#7 posted 05-29-2014 01:54 PM

Most covered in responses before me. So enjoy your outdoor table. Hop the wife and little one are doing well.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2715 days

#8 posted 05-30-2014 12:24 AM

Just don’t use “rustable” screws. Those coated deck screws seem to be very weather resistant.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View ColonelTravis's profile


1800 posts in 1918 days

#9 posted 05-30-2014 02:12 AM

The maple was from pallets?

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1835 posts in 1994 days

#10 posted 05-30-2014 02:38 AM

Yep. Big pallets, a place near me that sells sport boats.

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

View ColonelTravis's profile


1800 posts in 1918 days

#11 posted 05-30-2014 02:42 AM

Man, that is great. I need to seriously check out those places myself, thanks.

View fuigb's profile


491 posts in 2982 days

#12 posted 05-30-2014 12:24 PM

A tip from one of the wood mags is now SOP in anything that I make to stand outdoors in the weather: epoxy on the end grain portion of feet & legs that are in contact with the ground, pavement, deck, etc. Fill the holes, as it were, with epoxy and thereby slow the rate at which moisture will be absorbed and drawn up. I’ve only been using this technique for maybe four or five years, but to my eyes it appears to be making a big difference

-- - Crud. Go tell your mother that I need a Band-aid.

View firefighterontheside's profile


18351 posts in 1881 days

#13 posted 05-30-2014 12:56 PM

I used marine varnish on my adirondack chairs and after a few years it all peeled off. After that I used deck stain and it has held up since then. I believe it soaked in an sealed as opposed to just making a coating on the outside.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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