Ridgid R4512 Drive Belt

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Forum topic by TheBryan posted 05-28-2014 04:15 AM 2239 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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11 posts in 1332 days

05-28-2014 04:15 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Hello All,
It’s been quite some time…
I’ve been out in the garage working away and just this last weekend, I threw the belt off of the table saw. I’m a bit more concerned that the pulley on the drive motor actually came loose, slipped and caused the belt to come undone.
So, I guess I have a 2-part question…
1.) Does anyone have experience replacing the drive belt on this TS? If so, any pointers would be great. At a quick glance it seems to be a bit daunting.
2.) is it worth even bothering to fix it myself? Couldn’t I just take it back and get a new one at Home Depot?

Any insight is greatly appreciated.



4 replies so far

View paxorion's profile


1100 posts in 1466 days

#1 posted 05-28-2014 01:18 PM

Does anyone know if the R4512 will take a link belt? I recently got a link belt from HF to use in a homemade drum sander (that someone else built) and it runs quite well.

-- paxorion

View knotscott's profile


7145 posts in 2796 days

#2 posted 05-28-2014 01:38 PM

The link belt would require a pulley for v-belts….pretty sure the R4512 uses a ribbed serpentine belt, so you’d have to change pulleys to make the link belt work.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View lumbermeister's profile


127 posts in 1400 days

#3 posted 05-29-2014 10:23 AM

Check out thread in below link, which has some nice pics/pointers re. replacing belt

View John316's profile


1 post in 334 days

#4 posted 11-25-2015 08:47 AM

same issue, what actually happened is poor engineering or just poor craftsmanship. regardless this saw with a minor adjustment is premo for the price point. what ridgid was riding on was a flat set screw torqued at some amount into the motor shaft, fine in theory, not, until a number of things possibly hit the fan, blade dulls, belt wears..etc. etc. in my case it seemed to happen when i raised the blade during a cut of some 1/4 in plywood to fully cut through, at least this is when i think it happened, again poor enegeering/ crafstmanship. nevertheless once blade stopped but motor sounded exact same and i unplugged/checked out. i found the set screw, that holds the pulley wheel, had screeched its way 3/8 to a 1/2 an inch away from the motor, thus freeing and freying the belt to say the least, and being replacement belts are at 40+ bucks this is unfortunate, but again with a slight tweek, it’ll pur like a kitten and cut like a champ once again for the long haul. side note, the set screw was still firmly set, not loose by any means, needed a bit of coaxing to get out.

from the top with saw blade removed what i did was measured out exactly where set screw met the motor shaft arm and marked it with a fine sharpie on the rounded part of the shaft on center. i used a detailed writing piece of paper to measure, nothing fancy, actually made it easier than trying to fit a tape measure in through the top. the back panel of saw will need to be removed to put on new belt if for nothing else. i picked up some identical threaded and size set screws with a beafier head from home depot but still allen hex wrench tightenable. these screws were also about twice as long as original set screw, only ended up needing one of course but come in packs of 2. i took some vice grip channel locks and torqued down on the head of the new set screw as it too will have a flat head, and grinded/cut it down to a sharp point, about a light 1/8 from tip to where threads start back up. i then went back to where i marked the center point that met from the pulley wheel/set screw position and hooked up the dremel, which barely fit, with a thin metal disc cutting blade hooked up, turn up motor to full rev, take time, only one main chance to get this right, and cut a groove through the raised portion (1/8×1/8 in) on the shaft almost down to the cylinder part. the next step was to work on threads to make sure new set screw would fit in to pulley wheel after grinding the mess out of the tip, if you have a smaller sized metric tap and dye that would help a lot, otherwise feel your way to the begining of the threads catching and even use a utility knife to bend back any first threads that may not be going right into place very carefully to not slice or jab yourself and then slightly force it in while screwing, once started your home free. next thouroughly clean new set screw and pulley wheel with some degreaser/parts cleaner/ acetone/ alcohol or use threadlock brand cleaner to make sure for a good bond with threadlock medium blue. after all back together minus belt, let set to full cure time (24hrs) then follow page 50 in the operators manuel to reinstall belt. i think the manuel is incorrect in calling the bolt to be loosened to remove or install belt to be loosened with a 6mm hex key to a regular hex bolt…just barely looked at it, im in the stages of waiting for threadlock to dry currently. hope this helps if you havent fixed by now

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