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Help Designing pantry cabinet

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Forum topic by LSGss posted 05-28-2014 03:03 AM 945 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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LSGss

57 posts in 740 days


05-28-2014 03:03 AM

Hello all,

So this is my first cabinet like project and because of the dimensions I had some questions that I was hoping the more experienced can answer. I have uploaded a poorly drawn picture but I think it gets the point across.
I have about 39” width x 20” depth by 8’ in height to work with and I want to maximize my size. I plan to use 3/4 prefinished plywood for the case.

1. Is there a general consensus for how high I can put the horizontal separator?
2. I assumed since the unit will be 39” wide that I would need a vertical divider because the shelves will bow at that width, is this a correct assumption?
3. What is the recommended thickness for the back 1/4 or 1/2 ply?
4. The cabinets in my house have a hardboard wall panel pattern as seen in the link below. What is the best way of adhere this to the plywood and clamping it while the glue sets?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_296727-46498-139_4294715692__?productId=3031277&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

Thank you for the help. I appreciate any other words of wisdom.

Lenny


13 replies so far

View AngieO's profile

AngieO

1208 posts in 900 days


#1 posted 05-28-2014 04:44 AM

I cannot help answer your questions… but good look on your project. Will be interested to see the replies.

View RXCabinets's profile

RXCabinets

10 posts in 252 days


#2 posted 05-28-2014 05:08 AM

1) I generally put it about where the bottom of the upper cabinets end up or centered, but you have a lot of freedom to put it anywhere you want. Mostly it’s structural job is to keep the sides from bowing

2) You can also use a stile of the same 3/4 plywood and drill the back of the stile with shelf pin holes (You will be using adjustable shelves I assume…?), since the depth is only 20”. You could also use cleats at the back of the cabinet, or a rabbeted in lip on the shelves to strengthen them. Just alternate possibilities, the vertical divider would be stronger and make your shelves less than half as wide

3) 1/4” is fine as long as you are using hang rails. 1/2” back is strong enough to do away with hang rails

4) Liquid nails or any similar construction adhesive should work fine, if you have a brad gun, 5/8” brads would keep it on till the glue dries unless it’s really warped beadboard / hardboard. you might even try contact cement. Not much need for clamping in that case, just accurate placement the first time :)
Good luck and happy creating!

-- Thought is a bird of space, who, in a cage of words, can spread it's wings, but cannot fly

View wseand's profile

wseand

2621 posts in 1794 days


#3 posted 05-28-2014 10:44 AM

I wouldn’t go any closer to about 18” to 20” from the top for your fixed shelf, I would say your are starting to lose its purpose any closer then that. I would find a place to put it closer to the center if possible.

Depending on the material for the shelves you shouldn’t get much sag unless there is going to be a lot of weight on it. If you are worried about sag you could also use a edging strip or skirt on the front edge, to give it strength and a little width. I would say there is no need for a vertical divider.

I would use the 1/2” ply on the back just for some extra stability.

Construction Adhesive and nails or a couple of clamps will work just fine.

Good questions,
Bill

-- Bill - "Freedom flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

View LSGss's profile

LSGss

57 posts in 740 days


#4 posted 05-28-2014 11:37 AM

I think I like the idea of a vertical divider because it provides compartments for organization. If I wanted to make that horizontal shelf high can I place an additional fixed horizontal shelf half way on each side of the vertical divider in the lower section. Thoughts? Thanks again for the help.

View Bill7255's profile

Bill7255

201 posts in 1037 days


#5 posted 05-28-2014 12:55 PM

Here is the pantry cabinet I built. It is 6’ wide by 8’ tall. I used pull out shelves. I put drawers in the bottom and cabinet doors on the top as separate sections. I used nail cleats and 1/4 inch back. My cabinet is 24” deep. The center divider runs the full length. This is a face frame cabinet so my drawers and pull outs are about 32” wide. I put the drawers in the bottom as this seems better use than just a shelf. It also reduces the length of the dors fore the pull out. A 8’ tall cabinet is massive.

-- Bill R

View LSGss's profile

LSGss

57 posts in 740 days


#6 posted 05-28-2014 01:09 PM

Hey Bill awesome cabinet. What was the rough distance for you horizontal dividers if you don’t mind telling me. I like this design a lot. What do you use the bottom drawer for. Thank you, Lenny

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

1024 posts in 1443 days


#7 posted 05-28-2014 01:14 PM

1 – I generally don’t make tall doors any more than 60” – Adjust the top to fit.

2 – Anything over 36” I put a divider. In this case I might put pullouts on one side and adj shelves on the other.

3 – 1/4” is fine

4 – Liquid nails panel glue and a few brads or weight

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

View Bill7255's profile

Bill7255

201 posts in 1037 days


#8 posted 05-28-2014 01:20 PM

The divider is centered. The bottom drawers are 12 inches high and will be used for paper towels, bath tissue etc. I will have to measure the others later today. One note I found out is you shouldn’t use 1/2 overlay for the doors if you are doing pull outs or the pull outs will catch on the doors. I did that and needed to make my pull outs smaller so they would operate ok.

-- Bill R

View LSGss's profile

LSGss

57 posts in 740 days


#9 posted 05-28-2014 03:34 PM

I think since most people agree that shelves shouldnt be bigger than 36” once I attached the face frame, etc I can make it so the shelves are 36” wide. I like Bill’s plan because it give you additional support to help with bending of the plywood. Plus a shelf that low is kind of annoying. So a top entry drawer seems like a better use.

View LSGss's profile

LSGss

57 posts in 740 days


#10 posted 05-31-2014 03:02 AM

Does it make sense to make slide out shelves if they are only 18” in depth. For those slide out shelves is 1/2 ply sufficient.

Thank you

View RXCabinets's profile

RXCabinets

10 posts in 252 days


#11 posted 06-02-2014 06:13 PM

If the vertical divider in your drawing is fixed and solid enough, 18” depth pull outs should be just fine. They will be less than 18” wide, depending on your slides and face frame choices, so they should be nice and trouble free. I’m partial to the self closing full extension Accurides, but they can be pricey….

-- Thought is a bird of space, who, in a cage of words, can spread it's wings, but cannot fly

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LSGss

57 posts in 740 days


#12 posted 08-15-2014 11:55 AM

If I make the area for shelves greater than five feet tll do most recommend a fixed horizontal shelf.

View RXCabinets's profile

RXCabinets

10 posts in 252 days


#13 posted 08-15-2014 08:31 PM

Unless you have some specific reason to need that much shelf real estate, then yes. or at the very least, shelf supports in the back of a stile, and possibly the cabinet back as well

-- Thought is a bird of space, who, in a cage of words, can spread it's wings, but cannot fly

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