Inconsistent table saw burning, advice please.

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Forum topic by pendledad posted 05-27-2014 07:05 PM 1252 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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190 posts in 1510 days

05-27-2014 07:05 PM

So I’ve got a wierd situation. Sometimes I get burning on my table saw, and sometimes I don’t. My setup is a G1023RL with an Infinity Super General blade.

Cross cuts seem ok, not the greatest, but ok. I think any burning from the cross cuts have been cleared up by a good blade cleaning I did.

For rips, it is a mixed bag. To cure the burning, I followed the usual steps:
1.) Aligned blade with miter slots.
2.) Aligned my fence with miter slots. I actually toe kick the back of the fence probably 1/64” further away to help binding.
3.) Aligned my splitter so it is dead on with the blade.
4.) Cleaned the blade to remove the pitch/resin (used TSP, then a dry lubricant). I was amazed at how dirty it was.
5.) Set blade at 90 degrees with table

The plywood would burn occasionally, and sometimes it became harder to feed the stock into the blade. So that left me thinking my fence wasn’t accurate and was pinching. But I can’t seem to find any evidence that is the problem. On long rips, I have to pause and regrip the wood, which is sometimes the culprit (but I still notice burns on short rips with even feed rate).

The poplar and maple I ripped the other day was burning so much it was starting to smoke. But some areas aren’t burned at all. It is almost like it happens at random times during the rip.

I should say that I’ve tried to take myself out of the equation as much as possible. I have the yellow magnetic featherboard that I use to ensure constant equal pressure against the fence.

Is it possible that the blade is the culprit? I’ve only ever used the Infinity Super General. It leaves an amazing smooth surface on the cuts, but could the high ATB be causing some burning? Could the blade actually be dull and I don’t realize it? When do you know it is dull? It still is leaving a mirror smooth finish on the cuts (aside from the burns).

Should I put the stock 40tooth blade from Grizzly that came with the saw and try some rips to see if the flat tooth style is any better?

Any suggestions?

17 replies so far

View ChefHDAN's profile


797 posts in 2270 days

#1 posted 05-27-2014 07:12 PM

”sometimes it became harder to feed the stock into the blade” Dull blade would be my first bet, do you have another to mount and check

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile


1294 posts in 1493 days

#2 posted 05-27-2014 07:22 PM

IMHO if you are using a splitter your fence should be parallel to the blade. Toe out is a good idea to prevent binding without a splitter, but if you think about it, you are now working against the splitter. This could be pulling the outside/back of the board against the splitter, and if it moves a little, into the back of the blade, or causing other problems. Maple burns easily anyhow. It seems to me too many teeth, and I agree with cheHDAN a dull blade. An irony is, once you overheat the blade i dulls very quickly, and the constant burning has probably toasted the blade. Time to sharpen, or try a different blade….. oh and of course (don’t take this the wrong way, it has happened to many of us) check to make sure the blade is on the right way. ;)

-- Who is John Galt?

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2506 posts in 2858 days

#3 posted 05-27-2014 07:26 PM

could be any of the above but when you have a slow feed or stop midway then burning will occur then if it’s going to at all.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View ColonelTravis's profile


1159 posts in 1314 days

#4 posted 05-27-2014 07:40 PM

Could be any number of things – pinching, blade is too low, dull blade, you feed it too slow or stop, etc. I learned the following from Hendrik Varju. Move the saw blade .003-.005” out of parallel with the miter slot, so that that rear of the blade is pointing away from the fence. You can kind of see what he means here:

This way the front teeth cut, while the rear teeth don’t come back and interfere with the wood whatsoever (burning, for example.) You could move the fence instead of the blade, and a lot of people do this – even my Forrest blade instruction sheet says this is good. But then your fence isn’t perfectly parallel with your miter slot any more, and it could possibly (key word) mess up a crosscut. If you move the blade and not the fence, you don’t have to worry about crosscut burning at all.

View knotscott's profile


7146 posts in 2796 days

#5 posted 05-27-2014 07:49 PM

The Super General is the cleanest cutting of any of the 40T blades I’ve used so far, though it is fussier about setup than some. The Hi-ATB grind will dull faster than most, but those tips shouldn’t be the culprit of burning…. it has a very tight side clearance angle, and dual side grind that help polish the edge. Those same parameters the leave the polished edge can make it a bit more prone to burning if the setup isn’t just rightor if the blade is dull or dirty, but your situation sounds a little extreme. It sounds like you’ve already touched on the basics….cleaning the blade, fence/riving knife alignment, etc. Is there any chance that your fence is slightly bowed? Keeping the Super General clean is especially important, and I’ve found it works better if raised slightly higher than most blades. It’s possible the blade is getting dull too….how old, how much use, what type of use, etc., are all factors.

The stock blade probably isn’t too good, but it’ll work. The Delta 35-7657 is a heck of a deal at $18 + s/h….worth a try if you need to send your SG off for sharpening, and is a great everyday blade when you don’t need that absolute best cut…it’s a great up blade too.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View pendledad's profile


190 posts in 1510 days

#6 posted 05-27-2014 07:59 PM

Thanks for the replies. I’ll check my fence tonight to see if there is a bow. I’ll also try my other blade to see if the tight side clearance is an issue.

View Ocelot's profile


1459 posts in 2059 days

#7 posted 05-27-2014 08:42 PM

Different blades are made for different depth of cut. Using a blade designed for shallow (3/4”) cuts to make deep (2”) cuts would create a situation where the blade has a hard time carrying the chips out the other side of the board. The wad of chips in each gullet becomes impacted and causes resistance. The blade should usually be set so that it just clears the top of the wood. So, the depth of cut and thickness of material may be a factor.

Fewer teeth means bigger gullets to carry a larger load of chips.

Disclaimer: I’m telling you more than I know. :)


View buildingmonkey's profile


242 posts in 968 days

#8 posted 05-28-2014 03:21 AM

A rip blade will rip so much better than a general purpose blade, you won’t believe the difference. A 10” would be 24 teeth. They don’t have to be expensive, I bought a couple Bosch rip blades on closeout at Menards way cheap. But you will be changing blades to crosscut.

-- Jim from Kansas

View bowedcurly's profile


515 posts in 1150 days

#9 posted 05-28-2014 03:28 AM

20T forrest rip blade will stop most of that burning & I like the 24T Diablo it’s aslick cutting lower priced blade or the 18T Freud but it has a hefty kerf

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View pintodeluxe's profile


4825 posts in 2234 days

#10 posted 05-28-2014 03:48 AM

Switching to a thin kerf 24 tooth Freud blade solved my ripping problems.
Try a test cut on 1/2” plywood. Even a somewhat dull blade should zip through thin plywood, so if it burns that… you have a setup problem.

Changes that will eliminate burning
1. Choose a blade with fewer teeth.
2. Thin kerf blades over full kerf.
3. Quick, but safe feed rate.

Good luck.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View runswithscissors's profile


2127 posts in 1446 days

#11 posted 05-28-2014 07:06 AM

You mentioned using a featherboard. If your fence has any flex in it, the featherboard may be pushing the wood into the fence with too much force, and causing the binding. Just a thought. Oh, another: I assume you apply the featherboard in front of the blade, not lapping it?

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View Loren's profile


8159 posts in 3068 days

#12 posted 05-28-2014 07:25 AM

Raise the blade up all the way. Lower tooth counts help
with ripping. Combo blades often crosscut adequately
but the ripping performance is not ideal.

I’ve owned saws that could not rip to the left of the the blade
so by habit I tend to set the fence a little “open” by about
1/32” and this helps with burning and binding.

Some woods burn easily. Plan to joint the marks off.

View NiteWalker's profile


2735 posts in 1997 days

#13 posted 05-28-2014 10:05 AM

If the fence is the type that has UHMW faces, they’re probably not flat. I was having the same issue and I had to replace the ones on my steel city saw. I used plywood. No more binding or burning.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View bowedcurly's profile


515 posts in 1150 days

#14 posted 05-28-2014 05:49 PM

I have my fence toed out about .025 or something like that but of course I mill most of my wood first, joint then plane, have mucho better results, but I’m learning something new everyday. I think that is what woodworking is all about, new day new way

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View pendledad's profile


190 posts in 1510 days

#15 posted 06-02-2014 02:20 AM

So I put on the stock grizzly blade and ripped some 1” thick hard maple 8’ long. No burning. I was amazed. So I tried again with the iinfinity super general and it burned. I’m thinking the infinity is going to be my plywood blade because of the glossy smooth finish. But I’ll probably try and find a deal on a dedicated rip blade without those angled ground sides.

Thanks for all the help.

showing 1 through 15 of 17 replies

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