|Forum topic by Sparks8286||posted 05-26-2014 01:49 AM||1160 views||0 times favorited||14 replies|
05-26-2014 01:49 AM
A couple of weeks ago I picked up an old Craftsman saw from the auction house that my parent’s church runs. They picked it up from an older gentleman’s shed. It had been sitting there for years. So, for $50 I had myself a 68 year old (I believe) table saw with all original parts including motor, fence and rails and 3 cast iron extensions. It also came with a couple of Craftsman miter gauges and roughly a dozen or so blades of various condition/age. After a couple of weeks of taking apart, cleaning, stripping, greasing, painting, waxing and reassembling I had my first table saw. I had to take the blade arbors to a machine shop because my blade had almost 0.030” of wobble out by the teeth. After getting them back…...still had the wobble. My solution was to make a jig that I can clamp either a file or square stone onto a work down the imperfections in the arbor. As of now, I’ve got it down to just under 0.002” of runout on the arbor. I’m still showing just over 0.012” runout just under the blade teeth. More than I’d like, but it’ll do for now and I’ll work on it more later. The blade is brand new and I’ve checked to make sure it’s straight. The arbor shaft has also been checked. They’re both good. My plan is to get a Delta T2 fence and make my own rails for it. I can save money that way AND make them as long as I want. Eventually I’ll make a new stand for the saw to include a router table between the extended rails. I’ll post pictures as soon as my girlfriend returns my micro SD card adapter and I can get them off my camera.
I have one question for anybody that’s worked on these saws before. the depth adjustment is fine, but you gotta MEAN IT to adjust the bevel. It’s hard to turn, takes forever and it’s even worse with the weight of the motor hanging off the back of the saw. I’ve looked at different adjustment wheels and I’ve found a set of 6” wheels from Ryobi that would make turning easier, but I haven’t pulled the trigger on that yet. I still think something can be done to ease the bevel adjustment. Has anybody else run into this problem? And if so, what did you do to correct the issue. It looks to me like the problem lies right behind the adjustment handle. There’s just too much metal surfaces rubbing each other to make it smooth. I know my trunions aren’t bound up because the saw moves pretty freely when the adjustment rod isn’t bolted to the side of the saw body. Is the saw just how it’s gonna be, or is there anything I can do to make it better?
Thanks in advance for any help and like I said I’ll be posting before and after pictures soon!
-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.