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Forum topic by Sparks8286 posted 67 days ago 570 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sparks8286

24 posts in 95 days


67 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw craftsman bevel

A couple of weeks ago I picked up an old Craftsman saw from the auction house that my parent’s church runs. They picked it up from an older gentleman’s shed. It had been sitting there for years. So, for $50 I had myself a 68 year old (I believe) table saw with all original parts including motor, fence and rails and 3 cast iron extensions. It also came with a couple of Craftsman miter gauges and roughly a dozen or so blades of various condition/age. After a couple of weeks of taking apart, cleaning, stripping, greasing, painting, waxing and reassembling I had my first table saw. I had to take the blade arbors to a machine shop because my blade had almost 0.030” of wobble out by the teeth. After getting them back…...still had the wobble. My solution was to make a jig that I can clamp either a file or square stone onto a work down the imperfections in the arbor. As of now, I’ve got it down to just under 0.002” of runout on the arbor. I’m still showing just over 0.012” runout just under the blade teeth. More than I’d like, but it’ll do for now and I’ll work on it more later. The blade is brand new and I’ve checked to make sure it’s straight. The arbor shaft has also been checked. They’re both good. My plan is to get a Delta T2 fence and make my own rails for it. I can save money that way AND make them as long as I want. Eventually I’ll make a new stand for the saw to include a router table between the extended rails. I’ll post pictures as soon as my girlfriend returns my micro SD card adapter and I can get them off my camera.

I have one question for anybody that’s worked on these saws before. the depth adjustment is fine, but you gotta MEAN IT to adjust the bevel. It’s hard to turn, takes forever and it’s even worse with the weight of the motor hanging off the back of the saw. I’ve looked at different adjustment wheels and I’ve found a set of 6” wheels from Ryobi that would make turning easier, but I haven’t pulled the trigger on that yet. I still think something can be done to ease the bevel adjustment. Has anybody else run into this problem? And if so, what did you do to correct the issue. It looks to me like the problem lies right behind the adjustment handle. There’s just too much metal surfaces rubbing each other to make it smooth. I know my trunions aren’t bound up because the saw moves pretty freely when the adjustment rod isn’t bolted to the side of the saw body. Is the saw just how it’s gonna be, or is there anything I can do to make it better?

Thanks in advance for any help and like I said I’ll be posting before and after pictures soon!

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.


14 replies so far

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

6706 posts in 1289 days


#1 posted 67 days ago

Might pack that cup with some grease. Seemed to help mine. Both adjustments seem to take forever to go up, down or bevel.

Don’t trust the angle scale out front, either. The pointer that indicates the angle is usually bent. Bear to set right, too.

Do you mean a saw like this one

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Sparks8286's profile

Sparks8286

24 posts in 95 days


#2 posted 67 days ago

I assume you mean put grease in the arbor shaft cup? I’ve done that. I had it all apart during the rebuild and put fresh grease in. I don’t mind the height and bevel adjustments taking a while to move, but the difficulty is what gets me. There’s gotta be a way to free up the movement of that bevel adjustment. The height is fine. It’s slow, but easy and smooth.

My saw looks different. I looked it up and I believe mine was made in 1946! Sorry it’s a different forum, but mine looks like this:

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=3064

The insert part is jeweled aluminum and I’ve painted the body red. I painted the underside of the tabletop and extensions black so it won’t be exposed iron. It had plenty of rust on it when I got it and I want to avoid that.

And no, I don’t trust the bevel gauge on the front of the saw. I got myself a pretty nice little digital bevel gauge from Amazon.com to help with that. I adjusted the pointer on the saw to be close, but that’s just for looks as far as I’m concerned, as is the depth indicator.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEIB3Y0/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s dead accurate on everything I’ve checked it against and for $17 it’s well worth it to me.

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

View JonHitThingWithRock's profile

JonHitThingWithRock

85 posts in 327 days


#3 posted 67 days ago

I’ve got a 113.299142, about 30 years newer, but with the same problem, every now and then i put some 3-in-1 oil on that rod and it moves marginally easier, but mine also has a problem catching when i reverse the direction, so getting it perfect can take a good 20 minutes. I’ve resorted to using router bits for bevel cuts until i can afford a grizzzly gr1023rl or sawstop. It’s been a very good saw for regular cuts, though. I started with a t2 fence (still have it in the rafters), upgraded to an incra supersystem about a year ago (so yes, i have $1,500 of incra and porter cable bolted to a $100 saw). If you can get parts for that saw I’d look at getting a new arbor and new bearings, I did that early on and it was like a whole different saw afterwards. As far as the bevel adjustment goes, you can make it better with lots of work, but it’ll never be great.

View Sparks8286's profile

Sparks8286

24 posts in 95 days


#4 posted 67 days ago

Haha, I’ve quickly learned that tablesaws and fences are like rifles and scopes…..you can spend as much (or more) on the scope as you did for the gun itself.

The arbor is good other than being out of square. I’ve looked and I can’t find anywhere that I can get another arbor and even if I did there’s no guarantee that a new one will be square either. I figure I’m better working on this one. It’s pretty close now, but I’m not done with it yet. I’ll try the 3in1 oil and see if that helps me any. I used SC Johnson’s paste wax on all the moving parts when I reassembled the saw. The trunions slide like butter when the internals are sitting on the work bench, but put it all together and it’s rough. I think the problem is in the design of the saw with the adjustment screw in the front of the internals and the weight of that big motor hanging off the back acting against is due to gravity. It’s just putting torque on the trunions and not moving smoothly.

I’m in need of a T2 fence without the rails. Would you happen to be willing to part ways with the one sitting in your rafters?

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

View JonHitThingWithRock's profile

JonHitThingWithRock

85 posts in 327 days


#5 posted 67 days ago

sure, i’m beyond sold on the incra so i have no use for it, I’d have to look into shipping though, not even sure if i could get a box big enough for it

View Sparks8286's profile

Sparks8286

24 posts in 95 days


#6 posted 67 days ago

My zip code is 22936 so you can look into shipping. How much would you take for it? Also, can you send me some pictures and tell me about how old it is? Thanks!

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

View JonHitThingWithRock's profile

JonHitThingWithRock

85 posts in 327 days


#7 posted 67 days ago

it was either 3 or 4 years ago when i got it, I’ll figure out what shipping would cost and let you know

View Sparks8286's profile

Sparks8286

24 posts in 95 days


#8 posted 67 days ago

Looks great! I look forward to hearing from you.

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

View TiggerWood's profile

TiggerWood

192 posts in 212 days


#9 posted 67 days ago

I own a 1959 Craftsman and it is basically the same saw. When I took mine apart and put it back together, I allowed a part on that rod to slip out of place and it gave me a bit of a difficult time. After taking it out and pushing things together, it works very smoothly. It was a type of spring washer on one side and a regular washer on the other that got in the way of everything fitting TIGHT. I had use a screw driver on both sides while squeezing this hollow 1” shaft between them. Everything should be pushed tight away from the handle and held there until you have the adjuster rod screwed in place. I hope this helps.

View Sparks8286's profile

Sparks8286

24 posts in 95 days


#10 posted 67 days ago

That’s where a lot of the friction is coming from. I have the hollow shaft between the 2 washers, but it seems that hollow shaft still wants to turn with the wheel. If they could slide against each other more smoothly I think it would turn a little better. I’ll try a few things and see what I can come up with. Thanks for your help.

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

View TiggerWood's profile

TiggerWood

192 posts in 212 days


#11 posted 67 days ago

Maybe turn the locking washer 45 degrees? Or 90.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1724 posts in 1234 days


#12 posted 67 days ago

try loosening the screws that hold the stiffener base to the inside of the cabinet where the bevel rod goes through the cabinet. a common mistake is to tighten the stiffener base’s attaching screws really tight, which impedes the swivelling motion of the rod as it bevels the arbor carriage.

also, a larger hand wheel will reduce the effort needed to bevel the blade. i added this to a bevel hand wheel and it lets me almost dial in the bevel angle i want without undue effort:

and here’s a short video of the hand wheel accessory in use:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lQJCYdVJ8M&feature=youtu.be

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Sparks8286's profile

Sparks8286

24 posts in 95 days


#13 posted 66 days ago

I found a set of 6” wheels that I’m looking at getting for it. They’re made by Ryobi, but they fit the 3/8” shaft on my Craftsman. They’ll give me twice the leverage than the wheels that came with the saw so I’m sure that’ll help. I also got to thinking last night about putting a thrust bearing between the back of the bevel adjuster wheel and the aluminum spacer to eliminate the friction between the two. I found one online last night for $6 including shipping so that’ll be someone worth trying that I think will do a lot of good. I’ll try loosening those bolts a little and see if that helps any too. Thanks for the tip on that. Buying anything may have to wait a few days now. We went to Kings Dominion today and somebody decided they needed our bag of stuff more than we did. They made off with several things including my girlfriend keys (luckily her car wasn’t stolen), her little Coach purse, driver’s license, cell phone and my credit card. Need to get that stuff straightened out and replaced before any other saw-related purchases can be made now. I swear I just don’t understand how some people can look at themselves in the mirror. Luckily, we met an AWESOME family that helped us out and let us use their phone so we could call someone to bring us a spare key and they even gave us money to buy dinner. Nice to know people like that still exist. Now if we can only get rid of warning signs and labels so the bad people can eliminate themselves….....

I know that’s off-topic, but I really want to tell someone somewhere about that great family. They wouldn’t even give us their name and address so we could repay them. Luckily, my girlfriends sister now has their number in her phone so we can at least call them and say thank you!

-- If you can't fix it with a hammer, you have an electrical problem.

View JonHitThingWithRock's profile

JonHitThingWithRock

85 posts in 327 days


#14 posted 63 days ago

so…. bad news, plus sorry it took so long to get back to you, I looked into shipping this fence, and it would cost so much, that you’d only be a little shy of a brand new one…... so I’d just go that route, as far as i can tell, it only makes sense to ship these if you’re amazon and have special deals with ups and a warehouse full of boxes that can fit something this big. the ups store doesn’t even have any boxes that are wide enough and long enough for the main fence part due to the welded t-thing, i’d have to go to uline. sorry to get your hopes up.

Jon

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