sharpening Circular Saw blades.

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Forum topic by thudpucker posted 01-20-2009 05:59 AM 3050 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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35 posts in 3659 days

01-20-2009 05:59 AM

I’m told these are the guys who post without photos. Photobucket
I apologize for this post. I had one going and was about to post a couple phots, but lost it.
Here’s the Saw blade.
It’s a DeWalt 10”x60 tooth fine kerf for finish work. However I used it on every thing and its burnt. You can see in the photo.
I was asking about sharpening the blade and two guys who sharpen for a living responded. Maybe they’ll come back? Here’s the blade.

12 replies so far

View DaveH's profile


400 posts in 4017 days

#1 posted 01-20-2009 06:05 AM

Photo links are bad.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

View thudpucker's profile


35 posts in 3659 days

#2 posted 01-20-2009 06:06 AM

It took awhile to figger it out. But I got it. Aint the Internet a wunnerful thing?

View Woodchuck1957's profile


944 posts in 4002 days

#3 posted 01-20-2009 06:58 AM

What are the pictures supose to show us ? All I’ve been told is if a certain amount of teeth are badly damaged or missing then it’s time to just buy a new blade, sharpening isn’t worth it in some cases. It would be best to take it to a local sharpener so they can look it over more closely and let them evaluate it.

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 4060 days

#4 posted 01-20-2009 02:23 PM

To be honest with you I would not even bother with sharpening this one. New, this blade will run around $30 which is about what the sharpening will cost you. When sharpening costs exceed 1/2 the value of the blade it is more cost effective to simply replace the blade rather than trying to extend its life. By the way I bought one of these some time ago when I needed a blade in a hurry. Made a couple of cuts with it and put it back on the shelf.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Daren Nelson's profile

Daren Nelson

767 posts in 4144 days

#5 posted 01-20-2009 03:32 PM

Cleaning is very good advice. Those DeWalt blades like that have really small carbide tips to start with (and to be quite honest lower grade carbide, and not great brazing to the body). I have sharpened plenty just like it they seem to be popular with the local building contractors. But they do not sharpen as many times as other brands/styles. I don’t agree they are throw aways unless there are chipped/missing teeth if you have someone local who knows what they are doing. At my shop it is $.25 a tooth, so $15 for a walk in…but if you have to mail it someplace that is equal to the sharpening costs there and back unless a guy sends a whole box of stuff.

View thudpucker's profile


35 posts in 3659 days

#6 posted 01-20-2009 03:46 PM

OK, onto the nail on the wall with the resto of the blades.
It took me a year or more to get this old Farmhouse in pretty good shape (inside and under) and I went through a pile of blades for the Skill saw and this sliding Miter saw, and (my go-to guy) the Sawzall.
I’ll bet there’s 25# of those blades down in the barn.

Thanks guys. I’ll just get one more.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3886 days

#7 posted 01-20-2009 08:14 PM

Use over cleaner on those blades and you will probably see them
cut better for awhile. Carbide blades often stay sharp and cut
well for a long, long time, but if you don’t keep them clean the
won’t perform well at all.

View Peter Oxley's profile

Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 4113 days

#8 posted 01-20-2009 08:25 PM

I’m with the others on cleaning. A clean blade makes a real difference.

I’m not sure I understand the “just throw it away if replacement is more than half the cost” idea. Even a cheap blade can be sharpened two or three times. If sharpening is $20 and a new blade is $30, and you sharpen it three times, you’ve saved the cost of one blade, and kept three blades out of the landfill.

-- -- --

View thudpucker's profile


35 posts in 3659 days

#9 posted 01-20-2009 09:05 PM

I’m going to clean it first. I’ll spray the Oven cleaner on this after noon when I go down to the barn. Hope it dont rust the blade to death.

I never throw anything on the landfill unless its absolutly of no use. I re-cycle evertyhing. I use the old saw blades for several things. They make good scrapers, straps, hangers….etc.

Sharpening us usually a $15-$30 option. New blades are usually cheaper on sale than sharpening. I originally thought I might have the magic here in my barn, but the experts have convince me other wise.
Thanks all.

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 3824 days

#10 posted 01-20-2009 09:08 PM

Thers a fluid you can paint on the blades and is safe non toxic it does nothing quickly.They are best left for a few hours between each aplication but it brings them up really clean. After all these blades may be just gunged up and that’s what is causing the most of your problems. I have also heard of people using oven cleaner on blades but have never tried it if you wish email me and I’ll find the name of the stuff for you to try.But perhaps you should also work out how many board feet and hours of use the baldes had it not used a great deal the blade should be well worth cleaning.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3886 days

#11 posted 01-20-2009 09:50 PM

I’ve never had it cause rust. Carbide doesn’t, in my experience,
rust at all – and it’s what does the cutting. I’ve used over cleaner
on bandsaw blades too.

Regular cleaning of blades with soap and water makes oven-cleaner
less necessary. I use a stiff-bristle nylon brush to scrub off the
pitch after the soap has softened it.

View Woodchuck1957's profile


944 posts in 4002 days

#12 posted 01-20-2009 10:17 PM

Perhaps a quick coat of a paste wood floor wax would prevent the rust, like it does for cast iron tops on Tablesaws, bandsaws, jointers, drill press, etc.

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