Best type of joint for recessed, corner edge legs?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by alexio posted 05-22-2014 05:03 PM 1508 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View alexio's profile


3 posts in 886 days

05-22-2014 05:03 PM

Topic tags/keywords: joints dining table legs table top joinery joint walnut question joining

Hi. I’m making a dining table and the guy I’m making it for wants legs attached to the very corners, like the photo I’ve attached. I’m wondering what the best type of joint / fastener is for a result like this? I’d like to have no fastners visible from the top, as in the picture.

*The legs will be made of 4×4s and the table top will be 8/4 inch thick, 40” wide and 100” long.

All is made of walnut.

Thank you.


8 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile


3969 posts in 1771 days

#1 posted 05-22-2014 05:22 PM

As pictured that would be a very week joint for a table. I suppose pocket screws would be one way to achieve it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View JonHitThingWithRock's profile


97 posts in 1142 days

#2 posted 05-22-2014 05:54 PM

heck if it’s 8/4 into 4×4’s you could do loose tenons or dowels, I’d personally use my dowelmax for that, but not everyone has one, but you could get a pretty beefy loose tenon in there diagonally. You may also want to think about rabbeting the inside edges of the legs 3/8 or so, just so all the weight isn’t on the tenons or dowels alone, that way the top would be sitting partially on top of the legs, but most of the top of the legs would still be exposed, that would also make positioning for your reveal easier

View Yonak's profile


979 posts in 941 days

#3 posted 05-22-2014 06:03 PM

You could cut pockets in the bottom side of the top, 1” or more from two sides of the legs and use lag bolts going into the legs horizontally.

I believe you’re going to, at least, have to have some aprons if you hope to have any stability. With aprons you can have an additional bolt, lower on the leg, coming in from the diagonal, and could make it every bit as strong as the average dining table.

View Yonak's profile


979 posts in 941 days

#4 posted 05-24-2014 02:24 AM

View Bogeyguy's profile


548 posts in 1488 days

#5 posted 05-24-2014 02:32 AM

If the table is going to be 40” X 100” I am assuming the table is going to have an apron under the table top to prevent sagging. If this is the case you could mortise and tenon the apron into the legs and attach the top to the apron with connectors that would allow expansion and contraction.

-- Art, Pittsburgh.

View alexio's profile


3 posts in 886 days

#6 posted 05-25-2014 03:15 AM

Thanks everyone! So the general consensus is that I will need an apron…. What about if I only made it 80” long by 36” wide?

View ducky911's profile


237 posts in 2210 days

#7 posted 05-25-2014 03:42 PM

I in the apron camp also. With the joint you are showing I would worry if you carved the top and legs out of a solid hunk of wood.

Where you are using thick wood that brings weight with it. You need it to be strong enough to tip it on it’s side a lift it by the legs.

View srzsrz's profile


37 posts in 1287 days

#8 posted 05-26-2014 07:23 AM

If it absolutely has to look like there are no aprons and the legs are at the very corners and the top hangs off the legs rather than resting on them, maybe something like this?

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics