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slightly warped board for table

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Forum topic by jimmyhopps posted 05-21-2014 02:44 AM 955 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jimmyhopps

222 posts in 1846 days


05-21-2014 02:44 AM

I am building a kitchen table 3’x6’ and have jointed the 7 boards that make up the top and thicknessed them all down to final thickness. As you can see in the photo, one of the boards is a bit warped, and the piece cannot be cut down. The raised edge in the photo is about 3/16 higher. Lesson learned: check for this before thicknessing the boards.

How bad do you think this will impact the end product in terms of flatness, or causing warp in the rest of the top? I don’t have a replacement handy, but could get one if that’s the consistent advice here. I don’t think i will have a problem glueing up since i have cauls and dowles, but am not sure if this will resolve the issue.

thanks, as usual


11 replies so far

View TiggerWood's profile

TiggerWood

271 posts in 1073 days


#1 posted 05-21-2014 02:58 AM

Would you be willing to cut one foot off, deal with a five foot table, and plane the rest even?

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

22045 posts in 1805 days


#2 posted 05-21-2014 07:32 AM

It looks like everything else is flat and true. I don’t know how thick they are, but I would go ahead and join them so that it’s in the middle. I believe that the others will hold it in place. My opinion.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View OldWrangler's profile

OldWrangler

731 posts in 1062 days


#3 posted 05-21-2014 09:42 AM

Might use a couple of bisquits to make sure it stay level with the other boards. I also agree with Monte, put it in the middle and the glue from the boards on either side will hold it.

-- I am going to go stand outside so if anyone asks about me, tell them I'M OUTSTANDING!

View Don W's profile

Don W

17971 posts in 2035 days


#4 posted 05-21-2014 11:10 AM

I agree. Just glue it where it needs to be.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View ron4242's profile

ron4242

1 post in 937 days


#5 posted 05-21-2014 12:05 PM

I also agree, stick it in the middle and get some leverage from the glue and other boards!

-- ron4242,TN http://junkblossoms.com

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

809 posts in 2317 days


#6 posted 05-21-2014 12:08 PM

use cauls and glue it

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Oldtool's profile

Oldtool

2375 posts in 1658 days


#7 posted 05-21-2014 12:16 PM

After gluing, is it possible to install breadboard ends for insurance?

-- "I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The point is to bring them the real facts." - Abraham Lincoln

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1837 days


#8 posted 05-21-2014 12:35 PM

Second the breadboard ends. If not, I don’t know what your plans are for legs/aprons, but you could screw a cleat or two on the underside and screw up into the table to provide additional insurance.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Marcus's profile

Marcus

1149 posts in 1487 days


#9 posted 05-21-2014 01:04 PM

I’m with the others, I would just glue that up and hope for the best.

View jimmyhopps's profile

jimmyhopps

222 posts in 1846 days


#10 posted 05-21-2014 01:15 PM

Thanks all. Can’t do the breadboard idea given the table design, but the cleat at the bottom sounds like a good idea.

View MrFid's profile

MrFid

805 posts in 1371 days


#11 posted 05-21-2014 01:31 PM

My first thought was to use a permanent caul (maybe you’d call it a cleat like Binghamton said) screwed to the underside of the table (hidden by the apron) with oversize holes drilled to allow for seasonal wood movement of the top. This would hold the boards flat from the underside. Good luck!

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

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