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| Forum topic by Zuki | posted 1588 days ago | 1024 views | 0 times favorited | 17 replies | ![]() |
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1588 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: zuki leg cut So how do I chop out the back section of this leg? In the pic I have the finished inside face painted red to make it easier to see. It is not a through cut so it is a bit more complicated. I know that the finish work will have to be done by chisel, but how will I hog out the majority of the wood? I was thinking of making a jig for the router table and taking progressive cuts with a straight\spiral bit until I get close to where I want to be and then use the chisel. Any other thoughts? Oh . . . what are your thoughts on this. Do a through cut and when I have the legs mounted “fill in” the piece I should have left (which is everything below the red face to where the leg bends outwards). This would probably be the easy way out and I would not be practicing any new skills. -- BLOG - http://www.colorfulcanary.com/search/label/Zuki |
17 replies so far
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#1 posted 1588 days ago |
A jig and the router table would seem the safest way in my mind. That’s an interesting cut. Personally, I try to avoid those. ;-) -- Working at Woodworking http://www.VillageLaneFurniture.com |
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#2 posted 1588 days ago |
I wouldn’t use the table saw… that looks a little too crazy for that. I think I would make a simple little jig to safely do this on the router table. Take an extra piece of wood as tall as what your leg is, and twice as wide. I would cut one end at 45 degrees. If you put double stick carpet tape on that 45 degree bevel cut on your jig, then you could stick the side of your leg to it and use a wide rabbet bit on the router table. It would cause your leg to ride on the table on its point (the far right point that is dark black in your pic above). In your pic above, the taped bevel jig would attach to the side of your leg that you can’t see. Put a wide rabbet bit in the table and hog out a little at a time. Since the leg will be rotated 45 degrees on the table, you are technically making a rabbited 90 degree pass, instead of a 45 degree V-groove. When you have it all hogged out, use the smallest rabbet bit for the very bottom to minimize your chiseling, then just chisel out the corner. Steve -- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) † |
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#3 posted 1588 days ago |
Zuki, -- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch) |
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#4 posted 1588 days ago |
Pat – you are first off the block recommending the router table and jig Russel – #2, and I’m trying something a little different Dave – who is Jojo ? Unfortunately I have the legs roughed out. Steve – #3. I see what you are getting at. Rabbet bit is indeed another option. BTKS – #4, hmmmm v-grove. Bently – its a one piece Survey says . . . jig and router table with chisel cleanup. I just have to figure out which bit(s). PS – I just sharpened all my chisels with my new WS3000 and I’m looking for excuses to use them. Boy are they sharp. :-D |
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#5 posted 1586 days ago |
Zuki, have you made your cut yet? -- As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens another. (Proverbs 27:17) † |
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#6 posted 1586 days ago |
I’d go with a 45 deg cut on the table saw. Then glue in the piece that needs to be put in below the red. -- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com † |
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#7 posted 1586 days ago |
How about something like a Fein multimaster with a straight blade? If you mark the depth, you could repeatedly cut along a line to that depth. It’s pretty good at cutting into large pieces and making notches and grooves. -- Rich, Seattle, WA |
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#8 posted 1585 days ago |
I agree with Karson, Table saw and glue back the cut off. My guess is you will never see it. |
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#9 posted 1585 days ago |
cut it separate and than dowel it back on with some good glue. You also can reattach it with a mortise and tenon for more strength -- making sawdust.... |
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#10 posted 1585 days ago |
I also agree with Karson’s method. -- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1 |
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#11 posted 1584 days ago |
Heres my take on this. I just sketched it out. You wouldn’t have much waste to chisel out
Lookin at it some more I reckon you could use one wide bit and use small cuts and only use one fence. different possiblities -- If you have a garden, a shop and a library, you have everything you need with apologies to Marcus Tullius Cicero |
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#12 posted 1584 days ago |
I like the router method. Something similar to what TNWoodwright sketched out, only I think I would somehow attach the leg to a jig/sled with the 45 degree angle built into it. Make the sled wide enough to have a couple of good and safe places to put your hands as you push it through. Just my 2 cents worth. :) -- Dennis, http://www.maplegrovewoodworks.com/ http://twitter.com/#!/MpleGrvWoodwrks |
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#13 posted 1584 days ago |
Now your talkin!! -- If you have a garden, a shop and a library, you have everything you need with apologies to Marcus Tullius Cicero |
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#14 posted 1584 days ago |
not sure exactly what tools you have to work with , but there are other ways than those mentioned above. the other method would be to cut the joint entirely by hand. think of it as a really long sliding dovetail. good luck with whatever you decide, looking forward to seeing this project posted. -- Junior -Quality is never an accident-it is the reward for the effort involved. |
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#15 posted 1583 days ago |
Choices Choices. I have not made the cut yet. I will be getting at it this weekend (hopefully) Thanks for the sketches and diagrams guys . . . gives me more to think about. Im gonna have to take pics and post what I do. I’m still partial to the router idea. The leg is actually 1 1/8 Interesting idea JJ. |
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