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Tung Oil Help

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Forum topic by tyskkvinna posted 104 days ago 865 views 3 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tyskkvinna

1308 posts in 1617 days


104 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tung oil

I have a customer that wants me to make his item with a tung oil finish. I’ve been messing around with it a little bit and I’m wondering if you can give me any suggestions.. What should I expect out of the finish? So far I’m kind of underwhelmed. I buffed it in like the label said, and it looks nice but then 12 hours later it looks kind of dull. Is that expected? Should it be glossier? Should I build the finish? How long should I wait?

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt


18 replies so far

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1276 posts in 1629 days


#1 posted 104 days ago

It tends to be a bit dull. Do several coats then wax and buff is pretty standard.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

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tyskkvinna

1308 posts in 1617 days


#2 posted 104 days ago

Okay. Any particular wax that works better?

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3412 posts in 2592 days


#3 posted 104 days ago

I have used both Johnson’s Paste Wax and The MinWax “Finishing” wax with good results.
MinWax is available in both light and dark for use on different woods.
Just my experience.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

359 posts in 866 days


#4 posted 104 days ago

I have always used polymerized tung oil and I have only used it on cherry and walnut. I apply it by hand and sort of rub it in. I let it sit for a few min. and rub all of the wet areas again to move them to the areas that have soaked it up. I let it set a few more min. and wipe it down with a dry cloth. I do the same thing the next day until no more is soaked up. I let it dry 2-3 days, buff it out with a buffer and apply Mayland’s Wax. I use this wax because it is what I have.
This has produced a nice glow to the wood. At least to me.

-- Jerry

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1490 posts in 352 days


#5 posted 104 days ago

Jerry, that finish technique sounds perfect for a dresser top I’m working on, does the polymerized vs. standard tung oil offer any addition protection from scratches and dents in the wood? Does it dry well even as the humidity goes up? I only ask because I have experience with BLO and while it’s cheap and gives a good look, I hate pretty much everything else about it.

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tyskkvinna

1308 posts in 1617 days


#6 posted 104 days ago

I have not heard of polymerized tung oil. What brand?

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

996 posts in 766 days


#7 posted 104 days ago

This is the only company know selling polymerized Tung oil and very expensive. There may be other brands out there.
http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/original.html

Many folks buying what they think is Tung oil simply buying oil varnish or wiping varnish product. If looking for sheen use a wiping varnish product.

Pure Tung oil will give you a satin finish, need between four & eight coats to achieve any kind of protection. Drying and recoat times more than polymerized Tung oil. Pure Tung oil will develop a patina over time as more coats applied.
Would tell the client need to re-apply at least annually unless talking about carved work even that would not hurt.

-- Bill

View Gary's profile (online now)

Gary

7103 posts in 2064 days


#8 posted 104 days ago

I don’t like polymerized because I don’t like that plastic look. I use pure Tung and use my own wax which is a mixture of bees wax and carnuba. I use the bees wax to soften the carnuba for application. It’s a hard wax and gives good protection, for a wax.
Good to see you back, Lis. You’ve been gone a while

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

11315 posts in 1737 days


#9 posted 104 days ago

I used Formby’s Tung oil and was very pleased with it. They tell you to put on at least 3 coats and that is the truth. Only until you have that third coat on does it look any thing like finished. I went 4 or 5 coats and it is a very even finish and does not look like a shiny plastic finish but nice and natural with a sheen. I don’t know how durable it is compared to Poly, but it looks nice when done!!

I had a guy on Sawmill write that Formby’s does not have ANY Tung oil in it so I called the tech dept at Formby’s and talked to a chemist. He said they start with tung oil and then it changes in their formulation with the magic they work on the finish, I guess.

Good luck Lis!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2409 posts in 2374 days


#10 posted 104 days ago

I am a fan of Waterlox – it will build, but like others mention, I did waterlox then wax.

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View tyskkvinna's profile

tyskkvinna

1308 posts in 1617 days


#11 posted 104 days ago

I was also using Formby’s. I will try 3-5 coats of it.

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt

View Bearpie's profile

Bearpie

2586 posts in 1649 days


#12 posted 104 days ago

For myself, I found that pure tung oil takes “forever” to cure so I mix a small bottle with a 50/50 mix of tung oil and Danish oil. That mixture works for me however the piece has to be sanded really fine to take a nice shine. 800 to 1500 grit does it for me then buff with a good beeswax furniture polish.

Oh yeah, several coats of the mixture till it stops absorbing the oil. Buff till you feel a bit of heat in the wood.

-- Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

359 posts in 866 days


#13 posted 104 days ago

Pure tung oil takes a very long time to dry. I have yet to have what I would call a plastic look to the finish. It can be adjusted with #0000 steel wool. The Sutherland Wells brand is expensive.
If I had a piece that would see use such as a table I would use Waterlox. This is another finish I love. I have only used tung oil on clocks some of which I top coated with dewaxed 1 lb. cut of shellac.
The tung oil is expensive as previously noted but a quart can lasts me a long time.
Polymerization occurs when the oil is heated. This causes the molecules to change in bonding and the drying time then becomes shorter.

-- Jerry

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

470 posts in 1392 days


#14 posted 103 days ago

To answer your question about polymerized tung oil. Polymerized tung oil is made by heating tung oil to about 500 degrees in an oxygen-free environment. This increases the viscosity and film-forming quality.

Also, as tung oil reacts to air to dry (it becomes a wax), so be sure to put the lid on tightly when storing. Small quantities left in an air-tight jar or can will turn to wax in time if there is much air in the jar. To avoid this, add marbles to the oil to take up the space of the air in the jar or can. The less air in the can or jar, the better.

Planeman

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2301 posts in 1514 days


#15 posted 103 days ago

Lee Valley sells polymerized tung oil;
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20050&cat=1,190,42942

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

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