Remote Power Control for Dust Collectors

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Forum topic by Kelly posted 05-06-2014 06:11 PM 1426 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1875 posts in 2819 days

05-06-2014 06:11 PM

Topic tags/keywords: remote switch remote switch dust collector chip collector

As many know, turning a dust collector(s) off and on can be a nuisance. The fact it’s across the room is bad enough. Then there is that, no mater how you position it, either the ports are in the wrong position, or you have to reach over or around hoses or the collector to get to the switch. Even if the switch is on the right side, you have to reach down to the motor to get to it.

To solve the problem, I removed the switch from the motor housing and installed it in a box at the end of twelve gauge power cords.

The box for my large collector is on the end of ten foot cords, so it can be relocated to tools near it. The smaller collector has enough cord to allow me to position anywhere on the metal can.

To secure the switch box to my saw, or in a convenient place on the collector, I use rare earth magnets that come center-drilled and counter sunk, allowing use of flat head screws to secure them.

On my big collector, I used three small magnets (K&J Magnetics part number B884DCS). They work, but I do need the three and the box can still move, if I get a bit too aggressive pressing buttons.

When I ordered the smaller magnets, I also ordered two larger magnets that have nearly one hundred pounds pull (K&J Magnets, items number MMS-A-X8). I used that one on the smaller collector and it stays put – very put.


All the foregoing aside, others have pointed out another very inexpensive way of powering smaller units – remote switches like those available for Christmas lights. Ones I was looking at could take thirteen amps, which is ample for my little 1-1/2 hp collector. Well worth considering and even cheaper than the cord means of modification. Of course, they will not work on the 220 systems.

The reason for two cords is, 240 volt equipment must have both legs broken/connected, when turning the equipment off and on. My big collector is running 220, so had to be done that way. The little one is running 120, but I plan on adding another 220 line for it and I’d have to add the other cord, so I did it now, rather than have to redo everything later.

It’s nice to be able to, for example, just reach to the left of my band saw to turn the collector off and on

6 replies so far

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5845 posts in 3460 days

#1 posted 05-06-2014 07:20 PM

On the front of my big sliding table saw(sixteen inch blade and weighing in at three quarters of a ton)saw, I also fitted a switch dedicated to start without physically having to go to the dust collectors each time to start and then again to stop.I by-passed the no volt release switches that came with the machines and re routed them as said to the front of my saw. I have two dust colectors for this one saw one at the rear dust collection outlet and one on an overhead guard both are fitted with blast gates also as The dust collector near the front with twin outlet is set up also for my radial arm saw when I use it I simply operate the blast gates to choose the appropriate one for the job.It is a great timesaver.Have safe fun Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1324 posts in 1824 days

#2 posted 05-06-2014 07:41 PM

just an FYI If you get a 240V contact relay you can use the throw away remotes on anything. My remote has 3 buttons, it runs my 3hp DC, 1hp DC, and my 10hp RPC (rotary phase converter) . The remote trips the contactor, and the contractor handles juice. The remote only see 1-3 amps. In the whole setup I have like $40, and it works from every where in the shop
(26×30) .

View bonesbr549's profile


1469 posts in 2942 days

#3 posted 05-06-2014 08:06 PM

I used the 240 unit from woodcraft with a wireless key fob and attached it to my belt so i could power it from anywhere on the floor.

I’ve upgraded now to grgates, automatic blast gates. You turn your tool on and it opens the gate and turns on the dc. Cut it off and it goes off and closes the gate.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1324 posts in 1824 days

#4 posted 05-06-2014 09:18 PM

I think the grates are awesome, but ouch the price.

View Kelly's profile


1875 posts in 2819 days

#5 posted 05-06-2014 10:57 PM

I guess a solenoid/relay would make for a cleaner set up, since you could leave it on the unit and activate it with just two wires and a ground. On the other hand, this only required a box and two cords. For the other, you’d have to modify the existing box to hold the solenoid, or add a box for the solenoid, then add another for the supply to the switch using, I presume, 120 volts. No?

Though significantly more expensive than mine jury rigged unit, I like the remote (until I lose it or people I invite over do).

The 220 remote says it’s good for up to 3 horse collectors, but doesn’t give an amp rating. I wonder how many amps it can handle. I put my amp meter to my monster and, though it claims to be a 3 horse, it draws 16 amps (the plate says twenty-five).

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1324 posts in 1824 days

#6 posted 05-07-2014 03:08 AM

Kelly that is the perfect question 3hp, but how many amps. Mine draws 18 amps. So I am right there in the same boat.

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