113 Craftsman Table Saw Blade Tightening Question

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Forum topic by Chris posted 05-05-2014 01:47 PM 3386 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Chris 's profile


177 posts in 1582 days

05-05-2014 01:47 PM

I am new to woodworking and I recently inherited a 113 craftsman table saw. I have been hand tightening the blades on the saw whenever I change them out; however, I think I tightened them too much.

This weekend was the first weekend that I was unable to tighten the blade down snug. It just kept spinning with little resistance. I ended up getting the bolt on the blade tight enough that I couldn’t loosen it by hand, and there was no wobble to the blade at all. I used the saw to cut plywood for a project all day yesterday with no issues.

My question is … is it dangerous to use the saw if the blade isn’t super snug? If so .. what would be my next step in fixing this issue?

Thanks in advance.

11 replies so far

View bandit571's profile


19996 posts in 2681 days

#1 posted 05-05-2014 01:55 PM

Never had this issue with the 113 I had for 20 yrs. I get the nut snug as I could. I laid the wrench against the side of the opening, and ( with the saw unplugged) tightened the blade up by pulling back towards me by holding onto the blade itself. Blade was all the way up.

Then the normal rotation will tighten things up as you saw. You don’t want it to be tightened down so tight that you can’t get the blade back off.

The “washer” that fits between the blade and the nut, may be a part of your problem. Is the washer warpped in any way? The nut needs to go on with the wide flat side towards the blade, not the small ring like side.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Chris 's profile


177 posts in 1582 days

#2 posted 05-05-2014 02:09 PM

Thanks bandit. I almost PM’d you this question because I have seen your other posts in other threads about 113 table saws and you have been very helpful. I will take a look at the washer tonight when I get home. Other than that … I have been doing what you described and it has worked up until this weekend. Now .. when I try to tighten the blade .. it just keeps spinning and I didn’t want to ruin it so I just got it as snug as I could and tried to live with it. Thanks again for your help and I will update the thread tomorrow morning after checking the washer.

View woodchuckerNJ's profile


1274 posts in 1632 days

#3 posted 05-05-2014 02:26 PM

Chris, A blade only need be tightened slightly. Any tablesaw. Only when you are using a dado will you need a little extra effort to keep the blades from hitting each other.

A tablesaw or any saw under power will tighten the nut or bolt on it’s own. So snug plus a little is all that is needed.

Hope you didn’t hurt the arbor threads, lets hope its just the nut, or something else.

-- Jeff NJ

View PaulDoug's profile


1535 posts in 1701 days

#4 posted 05-05-2014 02:31 PM

You just have to “snug” the arbor nut down. You do not need to over tighten it. The direction of rotation when spinning will keep it tight. I would check the washer as Bandit mentioned. You should be able to get a new on through Sears parts. I have never heard of those washers going bad though, they are pretty thick, if I remember correctly. Also check and make sure there isn’t something, debris on the arbor nut. If you don’t have a manual for the saw you maybe find it here and can download it:

-- “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk

View hotbyte's profile


991 posts in 2973 days

#5 posted 05-05-2014 02:45 PM

I always use a scrap piece of wood to hold blade while loosening and tightening. As bandit mentioned, just snug tight (similar to an oil filter). If you place wood scrap across throat opening in front of blade, the teeth will bite into it and hold. Did you get the arbor wrench with the saw? It is a flat metal wrench that fits arbor nut. Being flat and fairly thin makes it easier to when reaching into throat.

View Chris 's profile


177 posts in 1582 days

#6 posted 05-05-2014 02:58 PM

My gut feeling is I tightened in too much and the arbor threads are damaged. I never got a wrench with the saw but had an old socket wrench the last owner had used to hold the nut while hand tightening. I am not too handy so I am really gonna be bummed if the arbor threads are ruined. Going home at lunch to take pics I will be back soon.

Thanks again everyone.

View Grandpa's profile


3259 posts in 2673 days

#7 posted 05-05-2014 03:10 PM

Those threads are pretty substantial so I really doubt you have damaged them. I am thinking you have dropped the washers that hold the blade or perhaps you have installed the washers with the concave or cupped side away from the blade. The outer rims of the concave washers should hold the blade and the nut should tighten against the center of the washer. Look this over. I believe it was woodchucker that said snug plus a little is correct. If it slips you usually didn’t get it tight enough. When things are “right” it is snug plus just a tweak. If you need to tighten the nut excessively, I would look at my washers to make sure everything is correct. Look at the owner’s manual to get this all correct if necessary. Those are available on line for the old saws.

View neverenougftackle's profile


195 posts in 1844 days

#8 posted 05-05-2014 03:15 PM

Hello Chris, I have own one of these saws since the mid 70”s ,(with quite a few alternations). and If I read your problem correctly——- On my saw, for some reasoning, Sears did not mill enough threads after the smooth edge of the arbor where the blade sits, to fully tighten down a thin kurf (1/8” thick )blade . My solution came after I had bought , and also over the years have acquired several OD sizes of blade stabilizers. These are accentual a thick washer, which take up enough threads , that after I placing it against the nut side of the blade, then there is enough threads to tighten down the nut against the blade. You never ask, but unless you have up graded your motor, stay with these thin kurf blades as they take less HP to cut efficiently, especially on the Sears’s original motors.

Note,,,Grandpaw above me types faster than my two fingers,,,, he offeres good advice and I not wanting to make a echo of his answer.

View PaulDoug's profile


1535 posts in 1701 days

#9 posted 05-06-2014 02:21 AM

I use to us a “stick” when I tighten my saw blade. Then a couple years ago I read somewhere that you could damage the blade teeth or over tighten the nut doing that. I don’t know if this is true, I never had a problem, but I switched and started putting on this glove to hold the blade. It works very well for me.

-- “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk

View Chris 's profile


177 posts in 1582 days

#10 posted 05-06-2014 01:25 PM

Thank you all for the replies. Here is an update with additional questions. Last night, when I looked at everything again, I think I am putting the washer and arbor nut on in the right direction. I took pictures of my entire set up:

So you all can probably see the socket wrench that fits over the nut and used to tighten or loosen the blade. The washer looked old but it did not see like it was in horrible shape. When I tightened the blade again, I used a piece of wood to keep the blade from moving and I used the wrench to tighten the nut. When I do this the blade doesn’t move but the link belt turns with the arbor. Is that supposed to happen? Thanks again for all the help.

View neverenougftackle's profile


195 posts in 1844 days

#11 posted 05-06-2014 06:02 PM

Hi again Chris, Pictures are really great, arn’t they !!!!
IN my view, and again reading you problem the way I see it. Try and turn that washer over to where the concave side is against the blade’s side. This moves that nut out more towards the outside and just might be able to get ahold of the last remaining threads, before the shaft goes to smooth for the blade to set on.
Now in my case I bought the Bull Dogs plastic blade holding device. The one disadvantage over all of the years I have use it, is that it requires you to raise the blade up, and to a height in order for the teeth of the blade to ingage the inside of the plastic cup to lock that blade still. But at the same time bring it up heigher, I also found this to also be a plus ,in that it brings the washer, nut, and that blade all closer to the steel top of the TS to work on. All easer to reach .
Chris,,, since those are Acme threads on that shaft, you should not have to apply that much forse to lock down that blade, never took a torqued reading check, but really guy, not at all that much.

One more thing and I know you never alsk. These Craftsman have very narrow openings, and a shallow edge for the insert supports .If you ever would like to buy some nice inserts, look to Peachtree woodworking Supply one’s. Make sure you know your TS’s # FOR SURE as they/Sears made several revisions. But Peachtree is the best bought inserts that I have ever found.

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