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Cutting log on band saw.

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Forum topic by Mambrax posted 05-05-2014 01:47 AM 772 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mambrax

16 posts in 214 days


05-05-2014 01:47 AM

I keep reading that to be cut log on a band saw the log must be “green” aka wet wood. Any reason why i couldn’t try with dry wood ? I good a tone of maple logs in about 24/26” length that i would like to utilize. Thanks for the input !

-- Let's do the best we can !


13 replies so far

View doitforfun's profile

doitforfun

193 posts in 330 days


#1 posted 05-05-2014 12:23 PM

I’m interested in this as well.

-- Brian in Wantagh, NY

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bondogaposis

2696 posts in 1074 days


#2 posted 05-05-2014 12:32 PM

The idea of cutting them green has to do with making them into boards before the log checks and of course, boards will dry faster than logs. There is no inherent reason you can’t cut dry wood. Dry logs will generally be checked and you will lose quite a bit of wood because of it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1737 posts in 443 days


#3 posted 05-05-2014 12:58 PM

I’ve cut both green and dry wood on my bandsaw, the green wood can be processed before checking begins, the dry wood is usually much lighter. Using a tall fence is imperative, if you’re able to saw a flat on one side and place that against the table the log will be less likely to spin by the force of the blade pulling down.

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Mambrax

16 posts in 214 days


#4 posted 05-05-2014 01:59 PM

thank you for the input, stupid question but what “checking” for wood means ?

-- Let's do the best we can !

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Monte Pittman

15138 posts in 1061 days


#5 posted 05-05-2014 02:05 PM

“Checking” is cracks in the wood.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View woodchuckerNJ's profile

woodchuckerNJ

892 posts in 357 days


#6 posted 05-05-2014 02:18 PM

Green wood cuts more easily than dry wood.

Both dry and green require 3 or 4 tpi blades. The width will depend on your saw.

I’ve cut both green and dried on my bandsaw. So what I’ve found is that when cutting green, make sure you have some wedges available, so that the wood does not close on the blade.
Remove the bark, as it dulls the blade faster than anything.

When cutting dry make sure you have a sharp blade. Feed rate is important. Make sure your fence is set for drift. I don’t use a single point, I find them too difficult to get consistent results. Once you set the fence for drift, the battle is almost won. Feed should be slow and consistent, pushing too hard will result in a cupped cut (barrel cut I think they call it).

Since you say you have a bunch of logs 26” , I suspect you are indicating that they are dry.
Here’s what I do. I used to use a sled, no more. What I did was convert to a piece of ply. I put the log on the ply and send it through to cut the log in half. I don’t cut the ply all the way, I leave the last portion of the ply still intact so it’s one piece. Then I quarter it using the same slit in the ply. The ply gives me a nice flat bottom and doesn’t catch. The edge of the ply is against my fence which already is set for drift. if necessary you can drive screws from below to hold the log from moving.

Now you can cut the log using the fence and table alone.

I used to use the sled, but just found it too cumbersome on a small bandsaw. I found this method works for me.
You may prefer a sled.

Good luck, I have a love/hate relationship with maple. Love the results, but hate the tearout I get from it. It’s a tough wood to plane, tears out quickly. But when you get it right, it can be beautiful. Love the hardness too.

-- Jeff NJ

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Picklehead

632 posts in 652 days


#7 posted 05-05-2014 02:36 PM

After cutting any green wood I make sure to brush off the jointer and bandsaw and vacuum any sawdust away as it’s full of moisture and will rust everything it touches. Sticky stuff when wet, too. Good time to hit the table surface with some Boeshield, wax, or whatever.

-- You've got to be smarter than the tree.

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Mambrax

16 posts in 214 days


#8 posted 05-05-2014 04:47 PM

Thanks for the expert advise. Lots to take in consideration. the moisture and sticky aspect iin particular is something i did not think about. From a band saw stand point i have a Laguna 14-12 with a resaw master blade (carbide tips), so i think it should do it quiet well. Sled no sled, i’ll have to try and see. Thanks again.

-- Let's do the best we can !

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11369 posts in 1413 days


#9 posted 05-06-2014 01:21 AM

A sled is pretty much mandatory unless you have previously flattened one side of the log. Otherwise the log will want to roll and then bad things happen very quickly! Breaking that carbide tipped blade would be an expensive lesson. Not to mention the safety issues. I have sawed a lot of big green and dry logs on my bandsaw but always with a sled or cradle arrangement.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1737 posts in 443 days


#10 posted 05-06-2014 02:14 AM

A resaw master should prove to be a great blade for that process. I use a Lennox 1 1/4” blade with 1.3 tpi that works well, might even be worth having sharpen when the time comes if I could find someone local that sharpens bandsaw blades.

View bowedcurly's profile

bowedcurly

495 posts in 452 days


#11 posted 05-06-2014 03:28 AM

sled is a must when resawing,

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View EPJartisan's profile

EPJartisan

1087 posts in 1848 days


#12 posted 05-06-2014 03:53 AM

i cut up both dry and green, but prefer green to control the checking, but depending on the wood i prefer green because it doesn’t bind as much… some logs have too much tension inside when dry.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

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Mambrax

16 posts in 214 days


#13 posted 05-06-2014 04:11 PM

Thanks for input ! Safety first for sure !!!!

-- Let's do the best we can !

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