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R4512 Fence problems et. al.

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Forum topic by Adam posted 04-28-2014 01:41 PM 585 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Adam

4 posts in 291 days


04-28-2014 01:41 PM

Hello, guys.
I’m new to woodworking and have referred to this excellent forum for help many times already, but this is my first post.
Like many of you out there I decided on Ridgid’s 4512 for my garage shop, but I’ve run into some issues.

First, I discovered a small pit on the cast iron top. It’s about a sixteenth of an inch in diameter and depth, and is off to the lower right front of the top, nowhere near the throat. While disappointing aesthetically, I don’t know if this is, or should be, a major concern. Should it be?

Also, I’ve found that the cast iron top is not dead flat. I can get a very small amount of rock from my straight edge when I place it across the throat—slightly higher to the left of the throat. I’ve tested with several different straight edges and they all indicate the same thing. This seems a major problem.

Finally, the fence has an alarming amount of movement in the sled component that sits in the front rail. Of course when I lock the handle down it’s tight, but it does not square itself up. I end up with a deviation between the front rail and the back, sometimes as much as a quarter of an inch. I’ve done everything I know to do to get the fence to work reliably but it seems impossible. I’ve adjusted the nut at the back, the alignment screws on the handle. I’ve squared it up to the top and paralleled the rails. Nothing seems to eliminate the issue. Am I doing something wrong here, do I have a “bad” fence, or does this product simply have a sub-par fence system?
I’ve seen similar complaints about the fence in other forums but haven’t seen any suggestions I haven’t already tried.
I’m at a loss here, gentlemen. It may be that the unflat top renders the fence problem a moot point, but I’d like to know about the fence so I don’t simply exchange it only to run into the same issue later.

Thanks,
Adam


14 replies so far

View Craftsman70's profile

Craftsman70

241 posts in 810 days


#1 posted 04-28-2014 04:01 PM

I believe the recommendation with fences like that is that you push forward on the fence (toward the saw) prior to locking it down. That will square it up prior to locking (unless it needs adjusted).

The pit is very minor and could be filled with something like JB Weld if it bothers you.

I’d be most concerned about the top not being flat. While you are at it, have you checked for the blade shifting problem that occurs on some R4512’s when lowering / raising the blade?

View Bullet's profile

Bullet

150 posts in 2015 days


#2 posted 04-28-2014 06:08 PM

Ditto. Blade shift was a deal breaker (and almost head breaker) for me – add in the pit and a non flat top? It’s a no brainer.

Was this a new saw or a second hand saw? If new, I’d bring it back right quick.

-- Anything is possible when you have no idea what you're talking about.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2859 posts in 1929 days


#3 posted 04-28-2014 06:36 PM

The pit wouldn’t concern me. flatness of the top is a concern. A feeler gauge between the straightedge and top should be no more than .003” to be acceptable. The fence will be near useless. It needs to be replaced by a good after market fence. While you are at it, check the arbor for runout. It should be no more than .0005”.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1262 days


#4 posted 04-28-2014 07:36 PM

Bring it back to the store and don’t look back. The 4512 needs a recall. The new delta at lowe’s has been getting pretty good reviews.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5512 posts in 2061 days


#5 posted 04-28-2014 07:43 PM

I wouldn’t be concerned about the small pit. I would only be concerned about table flatness if it effects the cut. I’d definitely be concerned about getting the fence right, because that will effect the cut.

Does the blade alignment stay parallel with the miter slots when you change heights? If so, you’ve got one of the good ones, and I would seek only to fix the fence if the techniques described by others don’t work, meaning the fence is either defective or not adjusted properly.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Gary's profile

Gary

7358 posts in 2118 days


#6 posted 04-28-2014 08:06 PM

I’d take it back in a heart beat. You paid for a saw with a flat top. You paid for a fence that’s working correctly. You didn’t get what you paid for. Take the thing back. You need to be able to enjoy woodworking without potential problems.

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View Adam's profile

Adam

4 posts in 291 days


#7 posted 04-28-2014 08:23 PM

Thanks for the responses.
I’m heading back out to the garage for another go and a call to Ridgid. I haven’t even gotten to the blade alignment yet, but I know that’s been an issue. If I find that, too, to be a problem it’s going back for sure. I had much higher hopes for this saw, but as of yet it’s been a disappointment. I know others have been satisfied with theirs and it may be that I simply got a lemon. But with three problems already and I haven’t even turned it on yet, my enthusiasm is waning fast. I’ll keep you posted.
Thanks, again…

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5414 posts in 2270 days


#8 posted 04-28-2014 09:17 PM

IMHO this is in no way acceptable.You bought an item that is, or should be perfect as it is brand new. What did you get Brand new and imperfect. In other words an inferior product, as it was not what what you paid for or agreed to .
Question
if they advertised it in their brochures as follows :
The top is, not or will not be flat,
and there are, or may be ugly marks or chips on this item.
How many people would queue up to buy such an item ? Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Adam's profile

Adam

4 posts in 291 days


#9 posted 04-28-2014 09:44 PM

I hear you, Scotsman. In all likelihood this one’s going back to HD.
Mr. Ron, my gauge read .004. It’s quite noticeable. A big strip of daylight slicing under my straightedge. I couldn’t reach Ridgid tonight; they put me on hold until business hours ended then I lost them.
On a happier note, it seems this one doesn’t have the blade alignment bug that’s afflicting so many others. I haven’t checked runout yet.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1768 posts in 1314 days


#10 posted 04-28-2014 11:18 PM

A few pics of the perceived problems would aid in determining how functional your saw can be. Not having the blade shift problem is a BIG plus.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View bbc557ci's profile

bbc557ci

543 posts in 759 days


#11 posted 04-29-2014 02:28 PM

Too many known issues, and a good chance of future issues. I’d return the saw and get my $$ back. Like others have mentioned you paid for a new saw that should work, period.

That mentioned, I’ve seen posts where there are issues with supposedly better table saws that cost more money. Bottom line is, sometimes we just simply don’t get what we pay for :o( With bigger/expensive tools I generally buy used. Yeah, often ya gotta phart around with them to make them right but in the end I’ve found it’s allot less $$, and you end up with a better tool….just say’n….

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

View Adam's profile

Adam

4 posts in 291 days


#12 posted 04-29-2014 02:43 PM

Here’s a pic of the top. I just noticed my earlier post says .004. Not sure why I wrote that. The reading was .018

The deviation extends consistently from the right miter slot toward the back of the table.
The pit I can live with.
The fence is baffling. I can’t really render the problem in a photo. I found a video on YouTube in which another 4512 owner had the same sloppy sled problem. I’m still trying to reach Ridgid, but if I do keep this saw I’ll definitely upgrade the fence. I get the impression it’s simply a chintzy design. Even when I push it into the rail before setting it jumps when I try to lock the handle.
I won’t keep harping on this, I hope to come to a solution by the weekend so I can get on with it and start working. Appreciate all the help.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1262 days


#13 posted 04-29-2014 08:40 PM

Why upgrade the fence instead of using that money, and whatever you get for returning the 4512, on a better quality saw?

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Dustgineer's profile

Dustgineer

41 posts in 178 days


#14 posted 04-29-2014 09:59 PM

Sorry you’re having issues with the 4512. I have the same saw, about 3 months old, and I’m very happy with it. However, I never installed the stock fence. Table saw fences get under my skin, so I bought the Incra TSLS complete joinery package (which costs more than the saw) and never looked back. It is now the best tool I have ever owned and I hope I can say that in another 10 years.

I guess I said all of that to say that maybe you got a lemon and with this saw you definately need an aftermarket fence.

-- Jim, Denton, TX

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