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Floating Vanity

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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 04-25-2014 11:19 PM 1013 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RussellAP

2966 posts in 1038 days


04-25-2014 11:19 PM

I have a customer who wants a floating vanity. We decided on walnut doors and one end cap. The frame will be fir.
I find myself wondering if there is something special that needs to be done on a cabinet that has so much weight pulling on the back.

Has anyone seen some decent plans online for a floating vanity. I just need to check some construction techniques and make sure I build it right. I plan on using some pretty stout angle irons to insure it won’t ever fall off the wall.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.


13 replies so far

View huff's profile

huff

2810 posts in 2037 days


#1 posted 04-26-2014 01:19 AM

Russell,

Have you considered hanging the cabinet using a french cleat?

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View Tedster's profile

Tedster

2290 posts in 963 days


#2 posted 04-26-2014 01:24 AM

Kitchen wall cabinets are floating and they hold a lot of weight.

-- I support the 28th Amendment. http://www.wolf-pac.com/28th

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2966 posts in 1038 days


#3 posted 04-26-2014 01:34 AM

huff, I’ll be using one on the top, then a good strong angle iron on the bottom.
Ted, the client wants to use a concrete top on his vanity plus you need the angle iron supports in case some one sits on it or tries to stand on it to change a light or something.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

2252 posts in 2299 days


#4 posted 04-26-2014 01:40 AM

I think John has the right idea.

-- Jerry Nettrour, San Antonio, www.topqualitycabinets.net

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Tedster

2290 posts in 963 days


#5 posted 04-26-2014 01:54 AM

Good point about someone standing on it, I didn’t think of that. And concrete too…. Yeah, you want that to be rock solid. I would probably open the wall to fasten heavy steel angle brackets directly to the framing. The top would rest on the brackets. In other words, yeah… what you said. :)

-- I support the 28th Amendment. http://www.wolf-pac.com/28th

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RussellAP

2966 posts in 1038 days


#6 posted 04-26-2014 02:22 AM

I told the client I’d likely have to remove the drywall to get directly to the studs in case of any rot or water damage compromising it and causing the vanity to loosen.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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Tedster

2290 posts in 963 days


#7 posted 04-26-2014 03:47 AM

Also to make sure the lag bolts are dead center in the studs for optimal strength.

-- I support the 28th Amendment. http://www.wolf-pac.com/28th

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3663 posts in 1264 days


#8 posted 04-26-2014 08:47 PM

..

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Texcaster's profile

Texcaster

732 posts in 426 days


#9 posted 04-26-2014 09:57 PM

If you fit a hanging rail in the bottom as well as the top, it will support a dancing bear. Or screw a batten to the wall for the cab. to rest on then fix with the hanging rail as normal.

-- Bill....... " was you dryin' your nails or a wavin' me goodbye?" Tom Waits

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doitforfun

196 posts in 359 days


#10 posted 04-26-2014 10:07 PM

^^ Bill is right. Connect to stud or plywood on stud and you won’t have any issues. I’d be more concerned with box construction than how to hang it.

-- Brian in Wantagh, NY

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2966 posts in 1038 days


#11 posted 04-26-2014 10:11 PM

doitforfun, I think if you’ll read the post, that’s exactly what I am asking. It’s frustrating when no one pays attention to what you write and goes off on a tangent.
Seems to happen every time I ask a question anymore. Make me want to stop posting.
Glad you caught it though. What I’m looking for is advise on the actual cabinet construction. I don’t think this thread will actually produce an answer now that it’s gone of in a different direction.
I think I’ll just find a pro cabinet guy here and message him. Now to find one with good communication skills.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Iwud4u's profile

Iwud4u

510 posts in 281 days


#12 posted 04-26-2014 10:38 PM

I’ve done a few myself Russell.
My first question would be how big is the vanity?
Are you putting a full back on it? Just a back rail?
As far as construction methods, it doesn’t need as much overkill as you would think.

The main thing is that:

the vanity box be well attached to the back.

And the back be securely attached to the studs.

I also run a cleat (approx. 5”wide) lengthwise across the back of the vanity that is well attached to the sides of the cabinet box and the top of the back. It’s easy to hold the back to the wall, the important thing is to keep the cabinet attached to the back.
Here are a few that I have done with stone tops that are pretty heavy. (No angle iron involved.)
I’m pretty sure they’re still hanging on the wall.

-- It's far better to be criticized by a wise person than applauded by a fool --

View jinkyjock's profile

jinkyjock

370 posts in 326 days


#13 posted 04-26-2014 11:31 PM

Agree with above post.
You are basically going back to traditional cabinet construction, but with the rail (called a bearer rail) running full width of inside of cabinet carcass. Top and bottom if you can. Top rail running under bottom edge of cabinet top.
Attached either with dowels, dado or dovetail for extra stiffness.
You can then run a stile either side to further stiffen or a central pilaster.

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