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Sealing up the TS

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Forum topic by Medickep posted 04-22-2014 12:46 PM 1166 views 3 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Medickep

554 posts in 1199 days


04-22-2014 12:46 PM

Topic tags/keywords: resource

Anyone have a pictures or ideas on how they sealed up their Rigid TS3650? My next project is overhead dust as well as sealing up the saw below.

I most likely won’t seal the very back so I can still do bevel cuts easily. Not sure how to address the dust port either. Right now I have 4” right to it with a reducer. I consider a funnel, but it seemed like to large of a gap for it to draw, especially with all the holes in the saw.

At the very least, I’ll have a collection box to periodically vacuum up!

-- Keith


7 replies so far

View FaTToaD's profile

FaTToaD

393 posts in 2602 days


#1 posted 04-22-2014 07:51 PM

I sealed up my TS3650, it’s not pretty but it works. I bought some “gap filler” foam spray at the big box store and sealed up all the openings between the top and the cabinet. After that I made a 1/2” plywood cover to go on the back with cutouts for the belts and other things. It’s held in place by two rare earth magnets. Finally I added a sheet of hardboard between the cabinet and the stand and put a 4” dust port. I removed the 2” from around the saw and just let the dust fall to the 4” port. It’s not ideal but it works. The gap filler foam sure made mess and I have to remove the back panel to do miter cuts but now that it’s my secondary saw with an Incra Miter 5000 on it I rarely change the blade angle. The only gaps left are on the front where the blade height wheel is and some small holes in the back panel due to the belts. Again, it’s not pretty but it works pretty well. Dust does build up in some of the corners of the cabinet but I just shopvac it out when I clean/wax it. I thought about taking a sheet of magnet paper and cutting it to fit around the blade height wheel gap but I haven’t got around to it yet. Hope this helps and if you want some pictures let me know!

-- David

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4449 posts in 3421 days


#2 posted 04-22-2014 09:07 PM

You’ve got to careful about shutting off “make-up” air.
My Grizz contractor TS has the vac plate on the bottom (4” opening) going to the DC. I added a small baffle on the rear that will aid in air flow without shutting down the needed return air.
Works pretty darned well, but the above table DC is lacking.
Just the chips/dust from the top of the blade.
There are those who are obsessive abt. the DC side of a table saw. I’m not one, and clean up after cuts is not that bad in my shop.
Just my method.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Medickep's profile

Medickep

554 posts in 1199 days


#3 posted 04-23-2014 03:48 AM

Thank you both fir the replies. What do you mean by the. ” make up air ?” Are you saying it can be sealed up to much?

-- Keith

View AlanBienlein's profile

AlanBienlein

159 posts in 2135 days


#4 posted 04-23-2014 04:38 AM

This is all that I did to mine.

Here is the back. I can fully raise and lower along with tilt with out having to remove anything.

This is what I did to close off the bottom so I could connect it to my dust collection system.


View Knothead62's profile

Knothead62

2581 posts in 2422 days


#5 posted 04-23-2014 02:01 PM

You want some air circulation inside to keep things from overheating and getting messed up.

View Greg In Maryland's profile

Greg In Maryland

550 posts in 2459 days


#6 posted 04-23-2014 06:10 PM

Hi Keith,

I created a mdf panel with a cutout for a hose fitting for the bottom of my saw. I removed all the existing ‘dust collection’ apparatuses. The hose fitting goes immediately to a 90 degree elbow and a short length of flexible hose and then a Rockler Dustright fitting on the end of the short hose. I use this short hose to connect and disconnect my dust collector. I don’t need to crawl or reach under the saw, which is a good thing.

For the back, I made some special fit panels from 1/4ths inch mdf and attach them to the saw base by using magnets epoxied into cointer sunk holes. I wasn’t as percise as others and I need to remove the back panels if I want to cut bevels. Since I rarely cut bevels, it is not a big deal.

Good luck!

Greg

View toolie's profile

toolie

2022 posts in 2089 days


#7 posted 04-25-2014 01:52 AM

alan’s solution is very well executed and provides the flexibility of not having to remove rear covers for bevel cuts. here’s a more ghetto approach to both cabinet and blade guard dust collection:

have to remove the rear panels for bevels, but it was fast, easy and effective.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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