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Planer sled for face jointing

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Forum topic by daviddoria posted 96 days ago 615 views 1 time favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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daviddoria

49 posts in 537 days


96 days ago

I have a Dewalt DW734 12-1/2” planer. I would like to try face jointing with this, using the method of making a sled and shimming the workpiece so that it doesn’t rock, then tacking it to the sled with hot glue before running the sled+workpiece through the planer. My question is how wide should the sled be? A 12.5” sled does fit through the planer, but sometimes with planing normal (without a sled) workpieces they seem to sometimes accidentally get grabbed by the infeed roller a little bit off from “straight” and the workpiece proceeds through the planer at a slight angle. If the piece was 12.5” wide and that happened, it seems like it would get stuck on its way in. Maybe I should just make it 12” to give it just a bit of clearance?

Does anyone use something like this with this type of planer? How wide is your sled?

Thanks in advance for the tips!

David


7 replies so far

View BentheViking's profile

BentheViking

1746 posts in 1163 days


#1 posted 96 days ago

check this out

http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/video/a-planer-sled-for-milling-lumber.aspx

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

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MrFid

506 posts in 503 days


#2 posted 96 days ago

I used the same article Ben gave you above to make mine. I made it 12 inches for the reason you specified. Since the sled is not being planed by the blades, you could probably go 12.5, but it shouldn’t make much of a difference. Good luck!

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

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Buckethead

1904 posts in 467 days


#3 posted 96 days ago

That is an awesome jig. ^^^

-- Bucket, any person that spends 10k on a bicycle is guaranteed to be a $@I almost started to like you. -bhog

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

877 posts in 709 days


#4 posted 96 days ago

I don’t do this often, as I have an 8” jointer and don’t often need wider stock, so I didn’t bother to build a real jig.

I use a simple, appropriately sized MDF sheet with a cleat (fence) at the front (leading edge), with shims either hot glued or carpet taped in place, built as required. When you attach the cleat, simply make sure there are no metal fasteners that can be planed. In other words, countersink screws deeply or set brads in as far as you see fit.

- Sled or no sled, I doesn’t matter if the stock turns from side to side. Look inside your planer, there are fences on the floor to keep the stock under the cutterhead. Most planers do this on occasion, no worries… Your stock should be attached to the sled, so the sled and stock will move as a unit.

- The sled cleat goes in front for planers, because the rollers are on top and pushing the stock that sits in the sled. I’ve build similar sleds for a drum sander with the cleat at the trailing edge, because in this case, the moving belt below is moving the stock.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

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derosa

1532 posts in 1434 days


#5 posted 96 days ago

I did this for a while for use with the same planer. Be careful about making it too big as it can become clumsy to move from the exit back around. A 12” was just too wide as was the 8’ length, maybe 9-10” x 6’ would have been better. Rollers are a real must to keep the sled supported at both ends as it goes through. In the end I dropped 100.00 on a lower end but decent older 6” jointer and it has been worth every cent. The blades are cheap at 18.00 a set. Biggest thing is that the dewalt blades cost 50.00 dollars easy a set and by using it as a jointer you pass the board through twice as often and wear them out twice as fast. Financially and physically it makes more sense to get the jointer.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

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daviddoria

49 posts in 537 days


#6 posted 96 days ago

CessnaPilotBarry – I am a bit confused about the cleat – can you explain its function? Is the idea to stop the rollers from pushing the workpiece forward (presumably breaking the hot glue attachment points?) and leaving the sled just sitting inside the planer? Isn’t most of the force applied by the cutting knives repeated hitting (cutting) the workpiece, which would be forcing it backwards (toward the infeed table)? Is the cleat really just a backup incase the workpiece was not attached to the sled well enough?

derosa – I typically work with very short stock (< 3’), so I’m not worried about the sled becoming a monster. I agree that it is obviously better to get a jointer at some point, but this is the hold over solution until budget and space allow :)

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patron

12957 posts in 1940 days


#7 posted 96 days ago

the fence in front is as barry says
to carry the sled with the wood

if you like one front and back
can help keep the wood from getting ‘sniped’
at either end

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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