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What's wrong with my hand planing technique?

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Forum topic by Schoffleine posted 04-20-2014 01:04 AM 1138 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Schoffleine

47 posts in 2373 days


04-20-2014 01:04 AM

I get this pattern a lot where I begin my strokes.
http://imgur.com/HrqFwC8.jpg

I’ve been smoothing it out by flipping the piece around and planing from the other direction but sometimes that creates the same pattern on the other side. I’ve tried a couple of things to fix it (planing in a diagonal, going against and with the grain, letting up pressure at the beginning of the stroke, and so on) but still have it occur frequently. What am I doing wrong ?


9 replies so far

View camps764's profile

camps764

867 posts in 1823 days


#1 posted 04-20-2014 01:07 AM

have you tried taking a lighter cut? Maybe you’re blade is set too aggressively so you are leaning hard into it to get going and it’s chattering.

Not an expert, just a thought. Interested to see what comes of this thread…should be a good informative one.

Great question!

-- Steve

View Airframer's profile

Airframer

3040 posts in 1416 days


#2 posted 04-20-2014 01:11 AM

Lighter cut and start the stroke with the plane at an angle and straighten out as it gets going. Pressure on the front knob in the beginning, both knob and tote through the middle of the stroke and just the tote at the end (The infamous Schwarz Ice Cream Scoop method lol).

-- Eric - "I'm getting proficient with these hand jobbers. - BigRedKnothead"

View TechRedneck's profile

TechRedneck

763 posts in 2320 days


#3 posted 04-20-2014 01:33 AM

You may be getting a little bit of chatter. That’s when the blade is not fully flat against the frog.

Make sure you have a good flat mating surface, less expensive planes or older planes may have some japanning (paint) where the blade and frog meet, a small file and a little work with a file (lightly) can solve that.

Next, make sure the blade is SHARP, I mean ping the hair off your arm sharp. This is the most important part of the learning process.

Take light passes at first and dial the blade down until you get the desired cut. The plane should leave a glass smooth finish on the wood that actually reflects light if done correctly. That is if you have a smoothing plane with a light cambre.

you can pop over to the hand planes thread, there is a lot of knowledge there.

-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle

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TechRedneck

763 posts in 2320 days


#4 posted 04-20-2014 01:39 AM

I hit the send button and forgot to say what Eric just mentioned. Good advise there.

-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle

View Schoffleine's profile

Schoffleine

47 posts in 2373 days


#5 posted 04-20-2014 05:48 AM

I’ll try scraping the Japaning off. My frog is silver and black (silver where the black has worn off) IIRC so that may be the case. It’s definitely an older plane (Bailey 4 1/2), but not sure exactly when it was made. I think I recall seeing something about the body stamp location but have forgotten what all that entailed.

As far as I can tell, the blade is sharp. I actually had just sharpened it about 5 minutes prior to using it here and it cuts nice ribbons with the characteristic ‘whisk’ sound. It may be that the blade is too far down (though I start with no contact and go a quarter of a turn until it engages the wood so I kind of doubt it) or the angle wrong (I sharpened the blades angle at 30 degrees which is what Google says is standard for plane irons).

I’ve never used anyone else’s plane so I have nothing to compare sharpness and feel with. But it certainly seems to be doing its job with nice, thin, curled shavings and I don’t need to lean into the plane to get it to cut (I do when the blade is too far down, so I know what that feels like; this isn’t the result of it though).

Thanks for the ideas. Unfortunately I asked this at a rather inopportune part (curiosity was killing me) because I’m away from the shop for the next two weeks but I’ll play with it when I get back.

View lateralus819's profile

lateralus819

2236 posts in 1352 days


#6 posted 04-20-2014 09:02 AM

I used to get that a lot. It’s probably not as sharp as you may think. Or you’re taking a heavy cut, and also try putting a little more pressure at the toe of the plane.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17962 posts in 2030 days


#7 posted 04-20-2014 11:21 AM

Here are some tuning tips, http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2013/02/04/tuning-it-up-bench-plane-style/

There is alot of good advice already. Chatter typically comes from a plane not fully tuned, or not fully sharp.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1352 days


#8 posted 04-20-2014 11:37 AM

^^Read that. I remember when i was first starting out Could not figure out why i couldn’t plane purpleheart WITHOUT it doing what it did to you in those pics. Turns out, it was NOT as sharp as i thought! I took it to the wet stone, and bam! Effortless. Also, sometime’s a back bevel helps too, depending on the grain and figure, not that you are getting tearout, but it’s good to know.

View Schoffleine's profile

Schoffleine

47 posts in 2373 days


#9 posted 04-20-2014 09:24 PM

Alrighty, will have a look at it when I get back.

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