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Hinges for narrow face frame cabinets?

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Forum topic by firefighterontheside posted 04-19-2014 09:08 PM 640 views 0 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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firefighterontheside

5425 posts in 575 days


04-19-2014 09:08 PM

I’m building some cabinets with narrow face frames and am wondering if anyone knows a good hinge to use off hand. Looking for European style that will do an overlay and have near zero clearance. Doors are gonna be close together.
Thanks ahead of time.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.


27 replies so far

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

771 posts in 1028 days


#1 posted 04-19-2014 09:18 PM

Well gee, how narrow is narrow? Are the face frames going protrude into the cabinet or going to be flush Are the face face frames going to stick out beyond the exterior of the cabinet??

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Loren's profile

Loren

7808 posts in 2367 days


#2 posted 04-19-2014 09:23 PM

Assuming inset doors, Blums or other cup hinges can
work. You need to look at the various clearances
offered by the different mounting plates. In terms
of half-overlay doors, you may need to build wood
mounting blocks for the hinge mounting plates in
order to get them to work right.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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firefighterontheside

5425 posts in 575 days


#3 posted 04-19-2014 09:24 PM

I think I will make the stiles about 1” to 1 1/4” wide so that with the overlay the doors will be close together. I can make the face frame whatever I need to to get the look I need, which is where you don’t really see the face frame with doors closed.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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firefighterontheside

5425 posts in 575 days


#4 posted 04-19-2014 09:27 PM

I found some blums on amazon. My main concern is clearance when the door opens, so that the adjacent door is not in the way.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7808 posts in 2367 days


#5 posted 04-19-2014 09:28 PM

I’m not aware of a a cup hinge that will do that. Maximum overlay
is around 3/4” with full overlay hinges and tweaking the cup
hole location. Maybe you can get a bit more overlay by putting
a clearance bevel on the door edge, but you’d certainly
be using the hinge for a job it isn’t designed for.

If you want to do the half-overlay look on a 1.5” face frame
(which is equivalent to butting two frameless cases side
by side) then you can use full overlay hinges.

There are some surface mount hinges and maybe some
double-jointed cup hinges that can do fancy tricks
with larger overlays I think.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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firefighterontheside

5425 posts in 575 days


#6 posted 04-19-2014 09:34 PM

Ok thanks Loren and alaskaguy.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

771 posts in 1028 days


#7 posted 04-19-2014 10:35 PM

I guess I’m being dense but I still don’t fully understand what you’re asking. It sound like a frameless cabinet with full overlay doors would do what you want.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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firefighterontheside

5425 posts in 575 days


#8 posted 04-19-2014 10:43 PM

Yeah, Alaska, essentially that’s it. I’m building these with MDO, so I want to have a face frame to hide the plywood edges, but I can just make it the same thickness as plywood and use hinges for frameless cabinet. You’re not dense. I’ve never built frameless cabinets before. I’m dense.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

771 posts in 1028 days


#9 posted 04-19-2014 11:25 PM

keep in mind if you want near 0 gaps between doors the wood can move through the seasons causing problems when they expand or shrink. What material you using for the doors?

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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firefighterontheside

5425 posts in 575 days


#10 posted 04-19-2014 11:28 PM

I’m not looking for that close. Maybe 3/8”. I’m using MDF for the doors.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

771 posts in 1028 days


#11 posted 04-19-2014 11:37 PM

Here’s a little something I found on the ’’woodweb site”.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Gap_Spacing_Between_Full_Overlay_Doors.html

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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firefighterontheside

5425 posts in 575 days


#12 posted 04-19-2014 11:54 PM

Thanks for looking that up. My client did not make any particular request, just drew a rough drawing looking somewhat like full overlays. I’m sure he would be happy with 3/8 or so between. My main concern was making sure I got hinges to do what I want to do. I want enough clearance so that doors back to back can each open at the same time.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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firefighterontheside

5425 posts in 575 days


#13 posted 04-20-2014 12:05 PM

I’m thinking I’ll build cabinets basically frameless and use half overlays on one side and full overlays on the other side and that will give me the most even spacing.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2169 posts in 1569 days


#14 posted 04-20-2014 03:54 PM

Euro hinges do just what you want to do—down to 3mm between doors, both being hinged. That’s 1/8.

The hinges allow the door to come toward you as it is opening. That’s their magic, along with the three way adjustability.

So, you could make your stiles 1.5 inches wide and use 5/8” overlay hinges and get what you want.

However, it would be much easier to edgeband the box pieces before you assemble them, drill them for shelf pins and use those holes for box mount hinge plates, and drill your doors to match the hinge layout that they (the line bores) give you.

You would need:

edgebanding
An applicator of some kind. The Virutex hand held is very good; down from that the small iron= that Rockler sells.

Others do it with a household iron. The smaller one is simpler. You’ll need a 35mm bit too. And an edgebanding trimmer (the simpler the better).

You will also need a basic shelf pin drilling jig. The Rockler one is simple and effective and, because of the drill bit design, will last a long time.

The hardware will end up being box mount plates and screw-on hinges.

I hope this doesn’t sound overwhelming. The money you will spend on these minor but effective tools will be small tuition for the joyful learning you go through on this project, not to mention the grief it will save you in the puny-faceframe department.

Here is the book that got me safely through the transition from FF to Euro cabinetry. (I note that the new copies are 44 bucks and the “collectible” ones are $15. : ))

Disclaimer: I am in no way associated with Rockler. Like all vendors, they have some really good stuff and some stuff that has a terminal case of gismoitis.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

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Loren

7808 posts in 2367 days


#15 posted 04-20-2014 04:06 PM

showing 1 through 15 of 27 replies

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