Attaching purchased router table to table saw

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Forum topic by Fish22 posted 04-17-2014 10:21 PM 1664 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Fish22's profile


83 posts in 3136 days

04-17-2014 10:21 PM

I just bought a new table saw and in order to save shop space, I want to replace one of the wings of my saw with a router table. I know there are many alternatives to purchase, but I would rather repurpose. I have a Rockler table that measures 32×24. I am planning on cutting down to the width of my table which is cast iron. When it comes to attaching to the saw is where I am looking for guidance. Below are my 3 options.

1) install t nuts in the MDF portion of the table and use bolts through the table saw.
2) installed similar to option 1, but add angle iron between the table saw and router table for ridgidity.
3) cut the the router table a bit smaller and use maple for a frame and the t nuts into the maple.

From the above what is the best method, or is there another option that would be better. I am not looking for a stand alone cabinet.

I realize I may need to add legs at the end for additional support.


-- Bryan, South River, NJ

8 replies so far

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 2993 days

#1 posted 04-17-2014 10:32 PM

I’m following this thread because I am planning a similar move..
I have an insert plate I was going to make my own stand alone router table, but when building my new shop I had to downsize and now I need to incorporate the router table in my table saw.

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 2993 days

#2 posted 04-29-2014 02:39 PM

Sure ain’t much input here, is it?

View Fish22's profile


83 posts in 3136 days

#3 posted 04-29-2014 07:59 PM

I am surprised myself at the lack of responses. I think I am going to try option 3 at this point. After looking closer, my router fence may create more of an issue.

-- Bryan, South River, NJ

View NiteWalker's profile


2737 posts in 2599 days

#4 posted 04-29-2014 08:28 PM

I thought I responded to this…

Definitely go with option 3; cut the table to fit between the rails and build a simple support frame underneath. Make sure the frame pieces are flat, as they will determine how flat your router table top stays. No need for t nuts either; just make the mounting holes a bit oversized so you have some room to adjust the table top level and even to the table saw table.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7758 posts in 2936 days

#5 posted 04-29-2014 08:29 PM

”... I know there are many alternatives to purchase, but I would rather repurpose….”

Go for it and let us know how well it turns out.

FWIW, I chose to “purchase” a router extension and have NEVER regretted that decision.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View jim C's profile

jim C

1472 posts in 3121 days

#6 posted 05-02-2014 02:59 PM

I just saw this post.
This is what I did.

View GregD's profile


788 posts in 3159 days

#7 posted 05-02-2014 03:29 PM

I have a Woodpecker’s MDF-core router table on one of their metal stands. The stand not only provides support near the edges of the top, but there are also steel stiffeners that run the width of the table on either side of the lift opening. I would be inclined to follow their lead. These stiffeners are simply screwed to the bottom of the top to help transfer the load from the center of the top to the edge of the top. They run just about to the steel frame but don’t attach to it, as I recall.

If your rip fence has back rails I would guess that it is easiest to mount to them. It could be just as simple as bolting steel or aluminum angle to each rail and drop in the router table after cutting it down to fit, and notching as necessary to clear the bolts mounting the angle to the rails.

-- Greg D.

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788 posts in 3159 days

#8 posted 05-02-2014 03:41 PM

Also, I personally would prefer Jim C’s arrangement for the router fence to what Mike has in his picture in most situations. I suspect Mike’s top will allow the fence to be on either side of the bit.

-- Greg D.

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