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Dust collection wireless update: Contactor schooling 101

2K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  TopamaxSurvivor 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Any electrical gurus know how I can set up my own wireless remote system. In the past I have read about this but that was a long time ago and who knows where I read about wireless.

We have a 5 hp motor so I was not going to buy the Loneranger system or anything. What I do have from Grainger is a Contactor and a transformer. I know these parts are required for something. I bought them a long time ago but never got around to using them so they just set in my drawer.

I am guessing that my new transformer is wired to some type of low voltage receiver which is wired to the contactor that is wired to the DC receptacle. I don't have any diagram to go off of. Any help will be a huge for us.

We are just now getting to where we are setting up Dust Collection.

We have built 2 jobs in our shop now and slowly setting things up whenever we can. I took today getting duct work hooked to all of our machines. I am anxious for the day when everything is hooked to DC and we can use low voltage remotes to turn on and off our DC from each machine. This way we can have nearly a dustless environment.

As much as I love working in the shop, I do not like the dust…

Thanks for the help.
 
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#2 ·
Well, you can hook up switches to blast gates. I think
you can run a bunch of 110v lines to the blast gate switches
and every time a switch opens you have a widget that
triggers your 220v main switch.

I know this isn't a real satisfactory answer but it is something
you might cobble together cheaply in your spare time (ha!).
 
#3 ·
Loren, I like the (ha!) :)

I actually was going to do just what you are speaking about. However, my parents helped us wire the shop and they took extreme care in making sure all wires were correct and concealed in pipe, etc. So running wire would likely need to be in pipe otherwise it will look sloppy when compared to all the other wiring my parents did (wiring is there cup of tea and what they like to do). And the spare time thing, not much going there these days…

What I thought about doing is similar to your idea, running one 12/2 wire to our center column which is only 20-30 feet from most machines and just run central switch. That could be done quicker and with less wires.

Thanks for the input though. I am thinking a lot about it because I don't want to walk to the office area (about 60' away) every time we turn the DC on and off.

By the way I was going to send you a PM later. No big deal or anything.
 
#7 ·
All the remotes I remember seeing here on LJ are 2 1/2 hp or less. Probably the easiest way and cheapest would be to use a low HP remote to operate a 120 volt relay and the relay would start your motor starter or possibly the remote could operate your 5 HP motor starter directly.
 
#8 ·
What Loren is suggesting is what I have in my shop. I think its the best way to operate things.
I also have a remote contolled one too. The gate is the nicest. you open it to turn on, shut it to shut down, if multiple tools are on at once, it stays on when one closes and others are on.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
on mine I have 5hp contact relay that is tripped by a 110 volt supply for the big DC. mine is a little heavier duty than the one in the link. Then I used a cheap remote from menards to trip the relay. The relay simply plugs into the remote. Here is how the RPC looks with the remote added. The remote I have has 3 receivers so I have it setup to run both DC units and the phase converter. I have meaning to blog about it, but I haven't had the time to take pix to make it easier to understand. I know I have less than $50 invested in it and it works from anywhere in the shop.
 
#12 ·
Hey Shawn, I have the same motor relay, I got it from Grainger. So how is the RPC doing? That looks to be a nice set up. We have a 3 phase 5 HP planer also I hope to convert to single phase by replacing the motor down the road. But for now it is just a toy I hope to tinker and play with whenever I have some spare time.

As good as the low voltage switches on blast gates sound, I just Dont have ample time to rig that up now. Going with cheap remotes I can be up and running tomorrow. So far we have been running molding, planing, drum sanding, all without any dust collection. It sucks, well without DC it really doesn't suck.

Phase 1 of DC hopefully will be running tomorrow which includes DC to planer, molder, sander, shapers and the base cabinet portion of 2 table saws.
 
#13 ·
Personally I think the remote is a cleaner install. The RPC is performing flawlessly. I flip the switch on as I walk in and I can then turn it on from anywhere in the shop as needed. the best pat is if I am planing I need the DC and it all functions on the same remote. If you need help with the remote PM me in the morning and I can walk you through it. I live in northern Indiana so I think we are on the same time. Its currently 11:43 here.
 
#14 ·
Thanks Shawn. I have a clear understanding of the wiring. It will take me the entire day to finish my duct work, set up the DC on the platform we built for it. Then I will have to go to HD in search of some remotes.

I grew up in. Northern IN. I stayed there until I turned 18. Lots if friends and family there.
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am putting my dust collection system in a closet that I'm building. I glanced at these remote controlled systems and blast gate controlled systems, but I just can't see it. Aside from being somewhat expensive, They look prone to problems. Drop the remote on the concrete floor and your out $70 or more. I guess I'm just not as lazy as most people, but I am a little lazy, I bought a double pole 20 Amp light switch and wired it into the circuit for my dust collector and mounted into the bank of switches on the outside of the closet. To turn on/off the DC, or my compressor, I just have to walk a few paces and flip a switch. The compressor is on a different circuit of course than the DC, in fact, it has a 2-way switch as I have piping upstairs into my master bedroom. KINKY!
 
#17 ·
A little pricey, but this, IMHO, is one of the best plug and play ways to go:

ivacswitch.com

Accommodates any voltage activating tool and one or more slave tools. First rate products for a first rate company.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
I second (or third, or forth….lost count) what Shawn was mentioning. I have a 5 HP DC, and use a contactor switched by a $10 lamp remote. The remotes are the first to go, the contactor is an industrial item; so about the worst thing that can happen is the remotes gives out…I keep a couple of spares on hand justb to change it out and I'm back in business. One thing I heard, and cannot verify….strong thunderstorms can cause these things to switch on/off (and stray signals from other remotes), so I trip the breaker to the DC if we are expecting strong storms. Don't want to have my DC running all night (it's a detached shop). If anyone knows whether this is true (or not) I'd appreciate any info.
 
#19 ·
strong thunderstorms can cause these things to switch on/off (and stray signals from other remotes),

I use a contractor activated by 110v circuit to activate my 220v DC. Never had a storm of any kind ever activate it.
 
#21 ·
So much for being up and running today with dust collection. The day went well until the end when my contactor caught on fire after plugging in my 110. :)

All is good, kill the power to the 110 and fire goes away. No harm no foul. A little reading and watching youtube allowed me to discover that coils can be rated 12v, 24v and 120v. I guess I assumed my coil was 120v. Well it was rated at 24v.

So that contactor is burned out. I guess I will be buying a new contactor in the near future. This time I will take notice to what voltage the coil is rated at.
 
#23 ·
I haven't set mine up yet, but I have a wireless remote intended for Christmas lights ($10) and plenty of capacity to run a transformer with output capable of powering nearly any 24V contactor coil. This way the expensive stuff is out of harms way as well as being designed for heavy use in an industrial environment. The cheap stuff (remote) is the only thing at risk of physical damage.
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yeah I agree bigblockyeti. Crazy thing is I cannot find any of those cheap $10 wireless remotes intended for Christmas lights. I wonder why. Guess I have to wait for Santa Clause to bring me my remotes.

TopamaxSurvivor, I would have replaced the coil if I would have known that. Instead, I went on clearvue cyclone site and purchased their contactor for 25.00 plus shipping because it states it has a 120v coil. So that is the plan.

Should be up and running soon. Thanks.
 
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