LumberJocks

Need veneering advise please

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by Kade Knight posted 04-10-2014 05:47 AM 532 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Kade Knight's profile

Kade Knight

62 posts in 665 days


04-10-2014 05:47 AM

I am designing a jewelry armoire for a friend and I want to veneer a stack of vertical drawers with a sheet of burl veneer that runs vertically with the drawers so it looks like one consecutive piece. I am not quite sure how to do this without getting too big of gaps in the veneer sheet to throw the figure match off. Does anybody have experience with this or suggestion? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

This is similar to what I want so accomplish


7 replies so far

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

2589 posts in 874 days


#1 posted 04-10-2014 05:53 AM

If you cut it 1/16” oversized total and are careful with placement it will all like up since you would want 1/16” gap between drawers.

-- End grain is like a belly button. Yes, I know you have one. No, I don't want to see it.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

5231 posts in 1522 days


#2 posted 04-10-2014 02:27 PM

If you have the facilities (vacuum bag or large enough press or veneer hammer and hide glue), you could line the drawer fronts up, spaced as you will use them, and veneer them all at once with the whole piece. When the glue is all cured, separate them with a knife or veneer saw.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

2589 posts in 874 days


#3 posted 04-10-2014 03:37 PM

Additionally, you could have one large board that you cut drawers from, but you veneer it first while it is still one piece. If you use a thin kerf blade, the grain pattern shouldn’t be too far off.

-- End grain is like a belly button. Yes, I know you have one. No, I don't want to see it.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7809 posts in 2372 days


#4 posted 04-10-2014 04:04 PM

You might want to do some mockups to see how
tight and consistent you can get the tolerances
on your drawer spacing.

It looks to me like the example piece has the “drawers” on
a pull-out and then mounted to a corner pivot, which
essentially allows them to be stacked up with very
consistent spacing. It’s a good approach to the problem.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Kade Knight's profile

Kade Knight

62 posts in 665 days


#5 posted 04-10-2014 04:31 PM

Jmartel, I thought about doing this but my plan is to veneer a solid cherry substrate. If I veneer a large board first then cut the drawer fronts, the substrate grain will not run parallel to the length of the drawer front. I’m worried about serious cupping issues if the substrate grain is vertical.

View FellingStudio's profile

FellingStudio

53 posts in 406 days


#6 posted 04-10-2014 06:07 PM

My approach would be as follows (and, I think that I’m just paraphrasing what Shipwright said.)

1> Cut, dovetail, and fit the drawers. (Do all of the joinery.)
2> Lay out the drawer fronts as they will fit in the chest face down on your bench.
3> Using masking tape, tape the drawer fronts together. The aim here is to be able to maintain their positioning relative to each other throughout the remainder of the veneering process.
4> Flip the drawer fronts over so the surface that you will be attaching your veneer to is facing up on the bench.
5> At the moment, I’m a hammer veneering guy, so I would hammer my sheet of burl veneer on at this point.
6> Use a veneer saw to separate the veneer (and therefore the drawers.)
7> Trim excess veneer off of the edges of the drawer fronts.
8> Assemble the drawers.

The benefit to this approach is that you don’t have to worry about keeping the grain perfectly matched from drawer to drawer. It will come as a matter of course.

-- Jesse Felling - http://www.fellingstudio.com

View dbray45's profile

dbray45

2585 posts in 1500 days


#7 posted 04-11-2014 11:47 AM

What Jesse and Paul said – but put a piece of cardboard that is the thickness of the saw blade between the drawers as a spacer. Do not run the cardboard all the way to the veneer – leave a 1/4” gap. Doing this gives you the space for the saw blade. Cut down toward the cardboard. Practice this on a mockup a few times first.

Do not disconnect the boxes (remove the cardboard) until the cut is complete or you can splinter the veneer.

-- David in Damascus, MD

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase