butcher block counter top help

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Forum topic by redmosquito1 posted 04-10-2014 04:13 AM 706 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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24 posts in 1023 days

04-10-2014 04:13 AM

I’m building a hard maple butcher block counter top with my brother for his kitchen island. It’s roughly 96”x44” with a relief in the middle to allow for his stove and approximately a 18” of overhang off the back. We will cut a curve in the overhang so its 18” in the center and 10” at the corners. We are using 8/4 hard maple planed down to 1 1/2”, he bought 8/4 figuring it would allow for boards that are warped so we could joint that out as opposed to searching for very straight 6/4. I found out later that the counter had to 1.5” at maximum so his stove would fit, I’ve filled 2 trash cans with chips using my thein baffle so far and still have a 1/4” to go after glue up. Although I’m trying to convince him to hand plane that 1/4” off just to make him work, haha.

My questions are -

With the over hang being 18” at the center I’m concerned about how much weight it can bear before breaking at the glue lines. So I’m looking for suggestions to shore it up. His thought is to mortise in a piece of steel we can attach to the inside of the cabinet and extend it out to help support the weight, I think this may be over kill though. The main thing he wants to avoid is having exposed supports so thoughts?

Lastly, we have to build this in pieces in order to get it out of my basement woodshop and up the stairs. My plan is leave the 2 pieces that will go around the stove unattached and assemble it at his house. I’m torn between gluing it together or using some sort of joint connector like sold at wood craft, there will be no need to take the counter apart in the future, but which method would you chose?

Lastly, cutting this stuff is really making me wish I had a better table saw. I’ve exceeded the limits of my old craftsman contractor saw, but convincing the fiance that its actually needed will not be easy.

1 reply so far

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3979 posts in 2391 days

#1 posted 04-10-2014 05:01 AM

I’m doing something similar. Making a part of my island top out of Cherry. Finished part will be 24” at the center of the bow and 10” at the ends. Overall length is 105”. Not really a butcher block style, just a glued up thick wood top. I’m making the whole front of the island cabinet as a bow front to match the curve of the top. At three places, the ends and the center I am putting corbels to support the overhang. The corbels will be held on the uprights with large pinned tenons.

My glue of choice is Titebond III. If you do something with steel you will have to use epoxy. You could use a long ship’s auger type drill to make horizontal holes in the top, just shy of coming out the front edge, into which you could epoxy large, 3/4” threaded rods. This would probably serve to eliminate the corbels.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

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