PM66 blade change question

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Forum topic by , posted 04-06-2014 03:58 PM 1340 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2387 posts in 3781 days

04-06-2014 03:58 PM

How do I hold the arbor stationary when tightening arbor nut? My unisaw has 2 parallel flat spots where a slim open end wrench goes to hold the arbor stationary while I tighten the nut. The PM66 does not have this. I used a piece of wood to wedge into the blade but this does not seem a very effective way to tighten the nut. For now that is the only way I know how to tighten the nut.

Am I missing anything? Thanks.

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14 replies so far

View SamuraiSaw's profile


515 posts in 2199 days

#1 posted 04-06-2014 04:04 PM

You really only need the arbor nut to be snug, as the rotation of the arbor actually works to tighten nut in use. Most folks I’ve seen tend to over-tighten arbor nuts. It doesn’t harm anything but certainly makes subsequent blade changes more difficult.

-- Artisan Woodworks of Texas....

View RussellAP's profile


3104 posts in 2521 days

#2 posted 04-06-2014 04:58 PM

I either shove a piece of hardwood between the blade and the arbor or you can use a pair of vice grips to grab the blade and hold it. Dont pinch the teeth of the blade with the grips though.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View ,'s profile


2387 posts in 3781 days

#3 posted 04-06-2014 07:40 PM

Thanks guys. I am just using two wrenches to do this task. I have never actually used a PM66, this is my first time ever. I have owned 2 Powermatics, a PM65 and a PM66, both were rough and never were put into production. So I have cut wood with the saw and it does a great job. No issues.

Russell, do you use a PM66 at your shop?

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View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 3819 days

#4 posted 04-06-2014 08:05 PM

Also grip the sawblade with either an old towel, with one hand or thick gloves which will alow you to tighten it enough. It does not need as said, to be weld tight just hand tight. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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2387 posts in 3781 days

#5 posted 04-06-2014 08:10 PM

Just when I thought I knew everything about woodworking!!! And I am just now finally figuring out how to change a blade :)

On past saws, using the 2 supplied wrenches, I would never over tighten. But the advice given re assures me. Everything should be good to go then. Thanks

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View lwllms's profile


555 posts in 3516 days

#6 posted 04-06-2014 08:44 PM

For the last 32 years, I’ve just gripped the blade and tightened the arbor nut. The blade wants to turn backwards when tightening and I’ve never been injured or had a blade slip. Use a piece of scrap to lock the blade to remove the arbor nut.

View AandCstyle's profile


3184 posts in 2491 days

#7 posted 04-06-2014 11:55 PM

I just hand tighten the arbor nut. Specifically, I hold the blade between my left thumb and forefinger and tighten the nut with my right hand. I’ve never had any issues with this method.

-- Art

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1325 posts in 2183 days

#8 posted 04-07-2014 12:45 AM

I just let the wrench rest against the insert hole and gently pull the blade towards you. Like others said it doesn’t need to be stupid tight. Unless the blade is junk, never grab a blade with pliers of any kind. You risk the chance of damaging the blade. I have a mid 70’s PM66 (the green one) and this is how I’ve done it for years. If you are concerned about resting the wrench on the Cast Iron you could always buy a Bench Dog Table Saw Blade-Loc.

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2387 posts in 3781 days

#9 posted 04-07-2014 02:08 AM

Thanks everyone. I have been impressed with the PM66 so far. I see PM66 at auctions a lot actually and might try to snag one more and replace our grizzly. Our grizzly is a decent saw except I Dont like the pipe fence, which incidentally came off an older PM66.

I have found 2 more PM66 saws at school auctions online in Austin and will try and grab one. Then we will run 2 Powermatic saws and 1 Unisaw. We run a dado on one saw and run a single blade on the other two saws.

We need the two saws with single blades because my wife bullies me and takes the saw from me. She is a fiesty 90 pounder.

-- .

View lwllms's profile


555 posts in 3516 days

#10 posted 04-07-2014 02:32 AM

Oliver’s old micrometer setting production fence would be nice at times but I wouldn’t trade my old cast iron fence for any of the newer fences. When I set the width of cut I usually want it pretty accurate so I want a direct measurement of the distance from the blade to the fence. That’s a real struggle with a Biesemeyer style fence. The rule on the rail may be fine for roughing things out but not for anything accurate. Using the fine adjustment knob with light tension on the lower fence lever, I can even set a dial indicator up and get real control of accuracy. Can’t do that with the newer fences.

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile


1294 posts in 2307 days

#11 posted 04-09-2014 09:10 PM

Where did you spot those auctions? I need another saw. Last one purchased was a pm66, very happy and would love another. (There are two, I promise not to bid against you!!)

-- Who is John Galt?

View ,'s profile


2387 posts in 3781 days

#12 posted 04-09-2014 09:45 PM

Hey Joey, I will send you a PM.

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View knotscott's profile


8172 posts in 3610 days

#13 posted 04-09-2014 09:49 PM

Over tightening can distort the blade….just snug it. The safe method is to hold the blade with a leather glove, but I usually skip the glove part, and just tighten it while holding the blade.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View ,'s profile


2387 posts in 3781 days

#14 posted 04-09-2014 10:28 PM

I know now, just hand tight. I have been using our PM66 with just hand tight and no issues at all. Works great. Thanks guys.

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