Board stretcher

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Forum topic by RyRat posted 04-04-2014 07:28 PM 1497 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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27 posts in 1484 days

04-04-2014 07:28 PM

I have a few 7’ board that I need to be 8’. Since I can’t seem to find this board stretcher I keep hearing about, I need to use some sort of joinery. What would be best to accomplish this? It doesn’t need to be super structurally sound, just enough to hold its own weight. This will also be painted in the end, so I’m not worried about matching grain or anything.

-- If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit. -Mitch Hedberg

10 replies so far

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3407 posts in 3153 days

#1 posted 04-04-2014 07:30 PM

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2241 posts in 1858 days

#2 posted 04-04-2014 07:39 PM

Fill up a buck of steam, and try pouring it over it. Maybe it can loosen the fibers enough to where you can then use the board stretcher.

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2756 posts in 2265 days

#3 posted 04-04-2014 07:48 PM

What does ‘hold it’s own weight’ mean. Are you using the board horizontally like a shelf? Since a lot of wood trim from the Borg is short pieces finger jointed together then approximating that would be a safe bet.

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5705 posts in 3201 days

#4 posted 04-04-2014 08:22 PM

Right off the bat lap joints, as well as tongue & groove leap to mind. There is also the mortise and tenon, and even dovetails…

For simplicity sake though, a lap / half lap joint would be the way to go. Easy to do, strong, and at least somewhat attractive.. Use a good quality glue and the wood will fail around the glue joint long before the actual joint fails.

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View RyRat's profile


27 posts in 1484 days

#5 posted 04-04-2014 08:29 PM

I was thinking about a tongue and groove, but a lap joint looks like it will be the strongest / easiest way to go.

When it’s all said and done, the piece will be fully supported from the bottom, I just wanted it to be strong enough to move around the shop until final installation. That’s all I meant by supporting its own weight.

Thanks all!

-- If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit. -Mitch Hedberg

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Monte Pittman

28964 posts in 2307 days

#6 posted 04-04-2014 08:33 PM

You already have the ideas,

Welcome to Lumberjocks

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

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8168 posts in 2546 days

#7 posted 04-04-2014 08:41 PM

How about a spline joint?

View Loren's profile


10278 posts in 3617 days

#8 posted 04-04-2014 08:41 PM

If you have a jointer and band saw, you can make a diagonal
rip, joint, and shift the two parts so you get 8’, You’ll lose
some width. I’ve done this once of twice but only casually
for things that didn’t matter a lot and I am not sure what
the optimal angle is.

View SWCPres's profile


29 posts in 1498 days

#9 posted 04-04-2014 08:43 PM

End to End Joining is best done by a finger joint or a T&G. A Lap joint will hold, but would be more prone to splitting the board if direct pressure is applied.
This is a finger joint bit I use.

I also like something similar to the T&G joint called a ‘Glue Joint’”

I use an older model of this on my shaper but you can find them in router bits as well. When I need joint strength, I use these.

If you want to be able to do this on a table saw without buying a new bit you may not have, Google a “Tabled Joint” I have used them before and they work very well. Accuracy is the key with them though!

-- Reinventing the "Wheel", one 800mg Ibuprofen at a time.....

View RyRat's profile


27 posts in 1484 days

#10 posted 04-04-2014 10:12 PM

I don’t have a jointer yet. It’s next on my list.

I just did a quick lap joint on the table saw. It’s gluing up right now. Looks like it will work just fine.

And on the router bits, OUCH! Those are $$!!! I don’t need to spend that kind of dough since this shouldn’t be something I need to do all the time.

-- If you are flammable and have legs, you are never blocking a fire exit. -Mitch Hedberg

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