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Forum topic by HorizontalMike posted 117 days ago 1086 views 0 times favorited 39 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HorizontalMike

6915 posts in 1515 days


117 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: plywood cabinet table storage planer table

OK. I have 3-sheets of 3/4in veneer ply (for over a year) that I need to use. Decided on an 8ft long planer table to set my planer w/ramps on top of. I have always defaulted to using others’ plans so this will be a first original design for me. I’ll make the drawers later…

That said, I was planning on the entire assembly being 3/4 ply, without corner blocks if possible.

I have some questions:

  • What would be best joint for sides/back since I do not have a dovetail type of jig? Thinking glued rabbets with Brad/Nail Gun nails for backup/added. Anything better that would be reasonably quick/painless?
  • I am wondering how to approach both “B” and “C”... What would be the better/easier choice, make “B” a single piece 8ft shelf? Or should I have both “C” verticals as single uprights and cut “B” into 3-pieces? 3-piece “B” would require either double sided dados on “C” or shelf blocks. Is that an issue to be concerned with?
  • As for the rear panel, thinking of just butt gluing the panel w/#18 brads from the back for support. Should any of that back panel be dado’d?

V…CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE…V

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."


39 replies so far

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1055 posts in 733 days


#1 posted 117 days ago

It’ll be very useful! Great design. Now get on with the build and blog it. I’ll certainly watch.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

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CharlieM1958

15663 posts in 2819 days


#2 posted 117 days ago

1. I think the glued rabbets would be fine, but I would use wood screws instead of brads. If you don’t want them to show, just countersink and putty over them.

2. I would definitely leave “B” as an 8’ piece. Having “C” directly over your casters will eliminate any problems with sagging. You could even build it with an offset between the upper and lower “C” supports, just to make construction easier.

3. I think that would be fine. Again, I’d use screws, but I’m the master of overkill. :-)

I actually made an entertainment center with a very similar design, and it’s a very stable piece. I’ll be watching to see what you come up with!

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7622 posts in 2653 days


#3 posted 117 days ago

I think I agree with your Glued/nailed rabbets in step #1.

I think it would be Very Strong to connect B & C with a Half Lap where C would just slide into place. With that glued, it would really be nice and strong… Takes more critical measurements… Slot widths must be exact Ply width… Length of A is dependent on the BC junction, as well as dados for C to the Top & Bottom critical.

If you feel like doing it that way, I think you would like the end result.

Otherwise, cut into piece & dado like A.

Looks like a nice project… Are you going to put a Plastic Laminate on the top to make it smoother?
... OH, that would be on the Top separate pieces… I think… :)

I’ll be watching too…

Have fun!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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Iwud4u

273 posts in 130 days


#4 posted 117 days ago

Screw it, literally

-- It's far better to be criticized by a wise person than applauded by a fool --

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6915 posts in 1515 days


#5 posted 117 days ago

Thanks Charlie. I hadn’t thought about offsetting the “C” pieces. That will eliminate what could have been a rather weak joint, torsionally. I think I’ll make the “A” drawers maybe 1 1/2in wider on both sides. That would leave me with 28in in the center compartment, where I want room to store routers.

Yep, moved the casters under “C” for the very reason you mention. You can just make out where I erased the original location ;-)

Wood screws also sound good. Will probably lay up with glue using brads, then tap and screw in reinforcements after glue dries. Makes me feel better about rabbeting plywood corners for sure.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3657 posts in 2264 days


#6 posted 117 days ago

Mike—Several years ago, I built a similar project for my lathe. It has 6 wheels (2 locking swivels on one end, 2 swivels in the center, and 2 fixed on the other end).

The only problem I have had occurred when I moved into a shop with a not-so-level concrete floor. There are a couple of spots in the shop where I can’t park it because the floor is uneven enough to cause one or two of the wheels to come off the floor which makes for a less than rock solid tool stand.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15663 posts in 2819 days


#7 posted 117 days ago

Just to clarify, I would have C attached to B with screws, and no dados. The back will be the critical structural piece to prevent any racking.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1154 posts in 1460 days


#8 posted 117 days ago

Use the screws while the glue is still wet, that will help draw the joints together…

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6915 posts in 1515 days


#9 posted 117 days ago

Joe: ”...Slot widths must be exact Ply width……”

Absolutely Joe! I even get to use the jig I made during my Shaker Chest Project again! It takes up to 25in width and that is why I picked so many 24in dimensions for this project. ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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HorizontalMike

6915 posts in 1515 days


#10 posted 117 days ago

Gerry—I think I will be OK with the floor, but who knows until it is built… BTW, all casters will be swivel. Currently have 2-locking and 2-non-locking. May just finish off with all locking just in case there is an issue with leveling. Don’t look to move it too often, but it does need to be mobile.

Charlie—Got it, screws only with “B/C”. Thanks again. Back panel will be ‘screws only’ without dados as well.

Herb—Wet and screws… depends on how fast I am on parts of the construction, but point well taken.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View levan's profile

levan

397 posts in 1580 days


#11 posted 117 days ago

Hey Mike
I think I would consider putting 3 1/2” to 4”rails or base around the bottom, just outside, or inside of the wheels. That would make for a stiffer unit and help with any sag that might occur. The whole unit will act more like a torsion box.
I assume you will be putting a rail under the area where the planer sets also.

Best wishes Lynn

-- Lynn "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7622 posts in 2653 days


#12 posted 117 days ago

Mike,

That looks like a COOL dado router jig... Yep, that would do it!

COOL Shaker Chest project too!

Let us know how you decided… OK?

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6915 posts in 1515 days


#13 posted 117 days ago

Hi Lynn,
Thinking about what you recommend, going with a single 8ft “B” shelf just 7in above the bottom piece should tighten the ‘torsion’ aspect in that area. I might consider 2in kickboards around the bottom of the back and sides after the unit is built. If for no other reason, it would help hide the wood screw joinery. Could maybe match along the front edge with a narrower strip flush with the top of the bottom piece, overhanging a bit to cover some of the casters. Hmm…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7622 posts in 2653 days


#14 posted 117 days ago

I like Lynn’s idea too… very good!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10580 posts in 1291 days


#15 posted 117 days ago

Mike, What a great idea! Please blog the build as I need to do one of these for my new (old) 18” planer and I don’t have the design talents to ‘get it right’.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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