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I need suggestions about a concrete threshold

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Forum topic by Steve Kreins posted 03-27-2014 03:12 PM 1389 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Steve Kreins

358 posts in 1094 days


03-27-2014 03:12 PM

Topic tags/keywords: threshold tripping hazard repair question

I have a 3” rise into my shop area. It’s concrete on top of concrete. I would like to repair it and make a smooth slope threshold. It’s a little difficult to roll my tool stands in and out. I also have a tripping hazard that has gotten me more than once. Any suggestions?

-- I thank God for everything, especially all of you!


7 replies so far

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chrisstef

15670 posts in 2470 days


#1 posted 03-27-2014 03:21 PM

Rent a chipping gun and chip out the offending portion of concrete down about 2” below grade then repour with bag mix concrete troweled to your specifics. You may need to put a cut on the inside of the existing threshold to prevent the concrete from spalling on you.

If theres a foundation / frost wall below the existing threshold the concrete should break clean at that point provided theres no reinforcement in there (which I doubt there is).

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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sarahss

258 posts in 2113 days


#2 posted 03-27-2014 03:26 PM

A quick easy cheap fix could be to build a small ramp and attach it to the concrete with concrete adhesive or some other type of glue.

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Grandpa

3256 posts in 2139 days


#3 posted 03-27-2014 03:43 PM

If this were my threshold and I wanted to slope it a bit and also close those cracks I would look for a product called Vinyl Patch. This product will not shrink after it dries like concrete. Mix it according to the instructions on the package and put it in place. It has a 20 minute pot life (if my memory serves me correctly) so you have to get with it. In about 15 minutes you need to be cleaning you tools or this will be on them forever. This product is tough. I would fill the cracks in the old threshold area and make it smooth in the inside of the building. I would slope it out and down to the existing floor outside. Have that area all cleaned and ready. I have used this product several times and think it is great. A few years ago you could get a small tub of it (about a quart of powder) for about $7.50 and a 10 lb bag for $10. I am sure these prices have gone up and are probably double that now but that isn’t bad for a good repair. Remember the working time and get it off your tools. It will begin to get gummy and difficult to smooth.

Edit: get the 10 lb bag if those costs are accurate. You will need that much.

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dbhost

5605 posts in 2695 days


#4 posted 03-27-2014 03:53 PM

Home Depot sells what Grandpa is talking about. Quickcrete Vinly Concrete Patcher.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-40-lb-Concrete-Patch-113340/100318461

Runs for $11.85 for a 10lb bag in the Houtston market…

I would add to Grandpa’s recommendations that you really should clean / strip the old concrete first, and get rid of any loose concrete pieces.

I would go with something like the Behr concrete cleaner and etcher which runs for $19.88.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-1-gal-Concrete-and-Masonry-Cleaner-and-Etcher-99101N/202263939

To clean the concrete you are going to need a garden hose, a stiff bristled broom that you can afford to throw out afterwards in case you trash it, and a wet / dry vac set up for wet…

Clean / etc the concrete per the MFG directions, then once dry… follow what Grandpa said…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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bandit571

14577 posts in 2147 days


#5 posted 03-27-2014 04:02 PM

Hmm, and I thought I was getting too old for concrete work…

Simple one first: Break out all the cracked stuff, and sweep it clean, NO DUST left behind. Set a bunch of Tapcon screws into what is left, leave them a little proud of the surface. You can add a length of form wire, wrapped around each screw. Next, there is a product we used to call “Milk”. It is a latex liquid that causes new concrete to stick to existing concrete. Spread this all over the old concrete. Mix a bag or two of sacrete @4000psi stuff. Mag-trowel it in place, and even add a slope to it. can be left alone after the mag is done ( better footing/traction) or use a steel trowel for a slick ( and I mean SLICK) finish Be sure NOT to run any loads across this for at least a week, two would be better.

The HARD way. Hammer it out. Add rebar dowels and a few rebars down into the foundation. These should have bend to them, tie that to the dowels. Add the “Milk” to the foundation slab. Mix up a batch of high-early 5000 and place. Mag trowel and add the slope you want. If this was a bigger area, I’d add either a foam expansion piece between the new and the floor slab, or an asphaltic one if it is outside. Concrete is a bit like wood, it will “move with the seasons ( look at the local roadways) and the expansion will cushion some of it.

Just my $0.02 worth….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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Steve Kreins

358 posts in 1094 days


#6 posted 03-27-2014 05:06 PM

_Thanks guys! You’ve given me some great ideas. I’ll probably incorporate some of each.

-- I thank God for everything, especially all of you!

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MrRon

3926 posts in 2707 days


#7 posted 03-27-2014 07:50 PM

Go to http://www.smooth-on.com page 40 for a material called “Forton” VF-774

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