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Choosing a fastener/adhesive for a high-stress joint

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Forum topic by J_H posted 03-24-2014 08:13 PM 976 views 0 times favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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J_H

19 posts in 1062 days


03-24-2014 08:13 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hey everyone,

So my mother has asked for a rack where she can hang her purses in her closet. The dilemma I have come across is this: If the purses will be hung on 2” diameter maple dowel, what will be the strongest most indestructible way to fastener the dowels to the board that will be mounted on the closet wall? So far, I am planning to drill a hole the size of the dowel to recess it slightly, but obviously I am going to need a very strong fastener or adhesive to hold the dowels in place long term. Since it is maple dowel, I’m not loving the idea of large screws. So far, these are the ideas I have come up with:

-Cams
-Super glue (CA glue)
-JB Weld or other epoxy
-threaded insert

Does anyone else have any ideas?


25 replies so far

View RockyTopScott's profile

RockyTopScott

1184 posts in 2940 days


#1 posted 03-24-2014 08:23 PM

If the board is 3/4” I would think a hole drilled all the way through and the dowel being 2.75” total with .75” mortised into the board, a glue like TBII should work.

the thing you did not indicate is the diameter of the dowel…this is an important factor in overall strength.

-- “When you want to help people, you tell them the truth. When you want to help yourself, you tell them what they want to hear.” ― Thomas Sowell

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

868 posts in 1746 days


#2 posted 03-24-2014 08:33 PM

Rocky, I think he mentioned it was a 2” dowel. I agree that if you fully recess it into 3/4” stock on both sides, it will be plenty secure. Am I misunderstanding something?

Joe

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

View Woodendeavor's profile

Woodendeavor

276 posts in 2069 days


#3 posted 03-24-2014 08:54 PM

I dont know how this would work with your design but I would try and find a way to wedge the dowel from the back side that way the glue is not the structural support. The wedge would tighten any slop in the drilled hole and use glue to keep the wedge in place

View Whiskers's profile

Whiskers

389 posts in 1489 days


#4 posted 03-24-2014 08:59 PM

I would drill a recessed hole in a 3/4” board for the 2” dowel to sit in, than a thru hole in the center for a screw. On the back I would also make a very slight recessed 3/8” hole for screw head to sit in. Won’t need much. Brush glue all around the inside and bottom of the recessed hole and insert the Dowel, than use one of my 1 1/4” self drilling pocket hole screws to permanantly attach the dowel in the hole. That should be more than adequate to hold purses. To Mount check your stud centers and mark position on your board, drill 3/8” hole about 3/8” deep, and small pilot hole in center. Mount to studs with 2 1/2” pocket hole screws, than put 3/8” plugs over the mounting hole. Mushroom plugs would be perfect so you could take it down in the future if you wanted to move it or paint behind it in the future.

Since I have a drill press, When I drilled the 2” holes I would tilt the table slightly and use Forstner bits, That way the dowels would have a slight upward angle.

View TimberFramerBob's profile

TimberFramerBob

68 posts in 1385 days


#5 posted 03-24-2014 09:08 PM

Glue and a hole drilled all the way through will be fine. If your mom has some extremely heavy purses you can cut a kerf in the back of the peg and drive a wedge in it…..that coupled with glue should pretty much make it like one piece of wood..

-- ..........a man who works with his hands, his brains, and his heart.....is an artist.

View Whiskers's profile

Whiskers

389 posts in 1489 days


#6 posted 03-24-2014 09:09 PM

Just thought I would add something, I made a rack of similiar design for holding levels and long edge clamps like you use for clamping across plywood and using as a cutting guide. Instead of using Wood for the dowels though I bought some 1/4” round steel stock and cut it into small pieces. Than I drilled a hole thru the 3/4” board and glued the rods in. Was extremely sturdy. Painted everything including the metal with ordinary house paint.

View TimberFramerBob's profile

TimberFramerBob

68 posts in 1385 days


#7 posted 03-24-2014 09:09 PM

I also agree with whiskers about angling the pegs slightly upward…...drilled like that you could hypothetically get away with no glue at all.

-- ..........a man who works with his hands, his brains, and his heart.....is an artist.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2735 posts in 2039 days


#8 posted 03-24-2014 09:27 PM

You’re overthinking it; drill a through hole in the wood the dowels will go into (backpiece), regular woodworking glue.
Angle the holes in the back piece if you want. Not by more than 5*.

And 2” dowels are probably overkill. 1” would work fine, but if 2” is all you got…

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View J_H's profile

J_H

19 posts in 1062 days


#9 posted 03-24-2014 10:16 PM

Thanks for all the replies! I realized I left out an important detail. She wants to be able to hang 2 purses on each peg. So they will each be protruding 8” from the back board. The purses aren’t terribly heavy but with the dowel being out that far it will put more stress on the joint. Lots of good ideas here thanks guys

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

868 posts in 1746 days


#10 posted 03-24-2014 10:24 PM

Ah, much clearer picture in my head now. I would suggest a slight angle to the holes, as some others have said. A wedge also sounds like a great idea. I would think a screw through the top or bottom would give you some reassurance if you felt it was necessary.

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2735 posts in 2039 days


#11 posted 03-25-2014 02:03 AM

Ever with two purses, everything I previously posted still applies.
Through hole, wood glue, a slight angle of you’re feeling saucy.
It’ll hold up just fine.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View WibblyPig's profile

WibblyPig

168 posts in 2736 days


#12 posted 03-25-2014 02:28 AM

Unless your mother is going to be doing pull-ups on it, 2” is completely unnecessary. I have my Besseys hanging from a 3’ board with 3/4” dowels. Each 3/4” dowel holds 4 clamps ( 40 or 48ish” is the longest I believe). The board is screwed into the wall (and as luck would have it only catches 1 stud). I drilled 3/4” holes in the board, put some glue on the end of the dowel and banged it down flush with the back.

-- Steve, Webster Groves, MO "A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in."

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3039 days


#13 posted 03-25-2014 02:39 AM

I agree with Steve.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View 69BBNova's profile

69BBNova

341 posts in 1678 days


#14 posted 03-25-2014 02:56 AM

Foxtail wedge, done properly last forever…

It would be easier for you to search for than my ability to tell you properly.

View Whiskers's profile

Whiskers

389 posts in 1489 days


#15 posted 03-25-2014 03:08 AM

Actually Nova it fairly easy to describe, A notched handle with a wedge in it like a Axe, or Hammer has.

showing 1 through 15 of 25 replies

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