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Making Joints and Drawers with Kreg Screws

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Forum topic by Redoak49 posted 03-24-2014 03:57 PM 2774 views 1 time favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Redoak49

3662 posts in 2187 days


03-24-2014 03:57 PM

A recent thread described the difficulty that one poster was having with making joints with the Kreg screws. I am certain that most of us who have used them have also encountered problems. I recently make some drawers that were about 16” x 22” x 6” using ½” plywood and the Kreg Micro Screws. I am hoping that some others will provide how they clamp parts to use the Kregs Screws and offer suggestions.

I had a number of drawers to make so I made 48” long drawer side stock with a bottom groove and then finished them. I was then able to cut all the sides, fronts and bottoms at one time to make certain that they were all the same size.

I drilled the pocket holes in each end of the front and back pieces.

I built a clamping jig with 8” wide piece of ¾” plywood and attached to the table I was using for assembly.
I used 3 clamps to hold the pieces together. One was to push the long side piece very tightly against the clamping block. The second was to push the front piece rigidly against the clamping block with a piece of ¾” plywood to hold it tighly and the third clamp to hold the pieces down.

It was then pretty easy to drive the screws for the joint. With the micro Kreg screws, they are not the washer head screws and it is easy to overdrive the screws. I used the clutch on my drill turned down almost all the way to drive them.

The back part of the drawer had the groove cut off so I could put in the ¼” MDF bottom and this is the finished drawer.


22 replies so far

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5192 posts in 3442 days


#1 posted 03-24-2014 05:25 PM

I assume you used glue. My preference would be to rabbet the sides and nail through the sides into the end and front pieces (with glue naturally). 18 ga 1-1/2” brads work great.

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5623 posts in 3911 days


#2 posted 03-24-2014 05:25 PM

Since its the back end if the drawer where it won’t normally be seen couldn’t you have just screwed them in from the side? Two screw heads are maybe a lot less noticeable than the big elliptical holes and then two screws anyway, admittedly on a surface even less likely to be seen. It seems like a lot if extra jiggering around just to use the tool instead of matching the tool to the job.

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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NiteWalker

2738 posts in 2775 days


#3 posted 03-24-2014 05:57 PM

I like pocket hole joinery a lot, but for drawers, a tongue and dado is extremely fast to set up and cut, and much stronger than pocket screws.

Just my preference.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

3183 posts in 3430 days


#4 posted 03-24-2014 06:19 PM

I use pocket screw construction for a lot of items, but not drawers.
Those do look good. Thanks for sharing the photos and construction techniques.
Mike

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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Redoak49

3662 posts in 2187 days


#5 posted 03-24-2014 06:57 PM

I did not use glue as it is essentially on end grain with a but joint.

The pocket screws are not visible unless you pull the drawer all the way out. The drawers have false front so you do not see the pockets.

Why not just use screws from the side? Good question and the answer is that driving screws into the edge of plywood especially half inch plywood will typically end up making it split. In addition, putting screws into the edge of plywood will at times cause issues as the screw will partially hit different layers and not go in exactly where you want it. The same goes for a tongue and dado into 1/2” plywood…you end up with not a lot of good wood for the joint. If is was 3/4” plywood, it would be a different matter.

I think that the tool matches the job. Since I ended up making a lot of drawers (15 drawers) at one time, making a jig was more efficient. If I was only making one drawer, it would be a different matter.

The great thing is that there is so many ways to construct a drawer. This was just an example of one. The drawers are strong and I enjoyed making some drawers with a different method than I have used before. I hate making everything the same way every time.

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5623 posts in 3911 days


#6 posted 03-24-2014 10:42 PM

Good point about the screws going into the end of the plywood. You are right there are many ways to build a drawer, thanks for posting this approach.

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View pottz's profile

pottz

3531 posts in 1183 days


#7 posted 10-19-2018 02:57 PM



I assume you used glue. My preference would be to rabbet the sides and nail through the sides into the end and front pieces (with glue naturally). 18 ga 1-1/2” brads work great.

- MrRon

ditto,i would never use pocket screws for drawers,and always use glue whatever method chosen.but as said there are many ways to construct a drawer.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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Redoak49

3662 posts in 2187 days


#8 posted 10-19-2018 09:34 PM

This is an old thread with recent comment. There were a number of comments suggesting that this may not be a good drawer method.

I made the drawers 4-1/2 years ago and they are heavily loaded and used constantly and no problems with any drawer.

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

283 posts in 109 days


#9 posted 10-20-2018 02:48 AM

I use the “Drawer locking router bit” and glue them. but again I use solid wood where possible. Matter of preference.

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

3662 posts in 2187 days


#10 posted 10-20-2018 11:14 AM

If I am making drawers for good cabinets or a piece of furniture, the drawers are hardwood, typically Ash, and use dovetails.

The drawers for the shop are a bit different and I used Aruaco plywood.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

3183 posts in 3430 days


#11 posted 10-20-2018 04:05 PM



This is an old thread with recent comment. There were a number of comments suggesting that this may not be a good drawer method.

I made the drawers 4-1/2 years ago and they are heavily loaded and used constantly and no problems with any drawer.

- Redoak49



-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View torus's profile (online now)

torus

199 posts in 612 days


#12 posted 10-20-2018 09:17 PM

Since this thread has been revived I will ask about “Kreg Micro Screws”.
What is it? I cannot find anything about micro screws (my google is broken?)))...
Or just tell me what screws you’ve used for 1/2 ply and what would be a problem with regular kreg screws?

Thanks

-- "It's getting better..." - put this on my RIP stone!

View jbay's profile

jbay

2861 posts in 1098 days


#13 posted 10-20-2018 10:09 PM



I did not use glue as it is essentially on end grain with a but joint. The same goes for a tongue and dado into 1/2” plywood…you end up with not a lot of good wood for the joint. If is was 3/4” plywood, it would be a different matter.

- Redoak49


I really don’t get what your saying here?

Standard T&G would give you 1” of glue surface.
I would rather have a tongue and groove in 1/2” material glued and clamped over a butt joint with no glue and Kreg screws.

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Redoak49

3662 posts in 2187 days


#14 posted 10-21-2018 12:31 AM

Not certain what torus is doing with Google but I looked up “Kreg Micro Screws” and found them along with the Kreg Micro Jig.

On the drawer design that I used. I built my drawers the way I did and they are working extremely well. If you disagree, you should start a thread or blog and show in detail how you make them.

Since I posted this over 4 years ago, I have learned a lot. I have learned not to post things like this because everyone will think it is the wrong way to do it. Feel free to comment as I am no longer following it.

View pottz's profile

pottz

3531 posts in 1183 days


#15 posted 10-21-2018 02:05 AM

well since your no longer willing to talk ill speak to those that will.my commnet was not intended to insult him or his methods,i just said how i do it.i guess he is a little sensitive maybe,sorry to offend.hey i wont argue with what works.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

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