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Router table fence setting

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Forum topic by niki posted 06-29-2007 07:42 AM 1944 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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niki

426 posts in 2803 days


06-29-2007 07:42 AM

Good day

As you noticed, I made my router table fence with a T so it will be set parallel the the table edge and I said that it’s very important for me…

On this post you will see why it’s so important for me…

You can measure the distance with the same set-up using ruler but I prefer the caliper even though it requires some calculation.

The calculation is very simple…lets say that I want to meke a slot of 3/8” (with 3/8” bit) that will start 5/8” trom the fence.
I just add the desired distance from the fence (5/8”) and the bit diameter (3/8”) =1”.
I set the fence so the caliper shows 1” and go…If I want to enlarge the slot to 3/4”, I just add another 3/8” after the first pass…the caliper should show 1-3/8”, and go again…

It’s very easy to modify the caliper…takes some 5 min, some 3 pieces from the scrap box and a few drops of CA…(I have a step-by-step pics and will post separately).

Best regards
niki

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14 replies so far

View David's profile

David

1970 posts in 2862 days


#1 posted 06-29-2007 07:50 AM

Niki -

First, I always enjoy your postings! Incredible detail. I love your engineering.

Second, I need to read this several times – much to learn!

-- http://foldingrule.blogspot.com

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niki

426 posts in 2803 days


#2 posted 06-29-2007 09:19 AM

Thank you David

Not much “engineering” there, I just wanted a “reference line” of each bit diameter or as I say…I want to see where “the bit will hit”. You can see it as a template for each bit.

That way, I can set the fence even by using a pencil or knife mark on the workpiece and the locator will “tell” me where the cut is going to be

Yes, it’s a little bit extra work to make the T-fence and the locators but I have to make it…only ones and later, the fence bit distance setting is so easy and accurate for me.

niki

View TomFran's profile

TomFran

2942 posts in 2718 days


#3 posted 07-01-2007 03:14 AM

Niki,

You are a great innovator! Super ideas for promoting quick accuracy.

I notice that you like to use “flooring” for your jigs. Is there a reason why you prefer that material, or is it that you had some left over from a floor job and you’re just using it up?

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

View Karson's profile

Karson

34902 posts in 3124 days


#4 posted 07-01-2007 03:28 AM

Interesting setup for finding your router line.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2803 days


#5 posted 07-01-2007 08:13 AM

Thank you Tom and Karson

Tom
You are correct, I have some left overs but for the new router table (the one in the pics) I bought new panels.

I used them instead of plywood or MDF because they are tough (HDF), covered with Plastic laminate from both sides, very consistent in thickness, very flat and glue very good and fast with CA (super glue).

I use them also as “Runners” for the TS sled because they are very slippery (my runners are usually narrower that the miter slot width).

The runner (tongue) that you see on the pics above, is also a piece of 8mm (5/16”) Floor panel, I made the slot with 8mm bit and the floor panel fits like a glove.

niki

View TomFran's profile

TomFran

2942 posts in 2718 days


#6 posted 07-01-2007 03:01 PM

Niki,
I actually suspected that it was more than just “using up some scrap flooring.” The reasons you stated make good sense. I think it’s a great application for the material. I may have to get a few pieces of it for some projects, or I could just install a new floor and then maybe I’ll have some left over ;^D

If people walk on it for decades and it stands up to that kind of abuse, it should last for a long time as a router table or “runners” for the TS. It is pretty near “indestructible” material – and the “slipperiness” is a real benefit.
I’ll bet spilled glue etc. comes off easily too.

Thanks for sharing your great ideas with us.

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2803 days


#7 posted 07-01-2007 10:57 PM

Tom,
I first “discovered” the Floor panels after I made the floor in my house.
They are giving a guaranty for 15 years (10~25, depends on the quality) so, it must be good for my jigs.

I’m using it almost for anything that requires 5/16” plates and even as a router bases, Circular saw bases and Circular saw guide (they come in 50” or 100” long), and even TS sleds.

One small advise…When you drill a hole in the Floor Panel and counter-sink it, if you want to re-enforce the hole, spread some CA on the counter-sink and the hole itself and let it dry (actually, penetrate) for some 10 minutes…the hole becomes “Iron”...I did it on my router table for the router mounting holes…of course you can use this method to re-enforce holes in MDF, plywood or Melamine.

All kind of glues are coming off very easy except the CA (super glue) that is “welding” the Plastic laminate.

Regards
niki

View TomFran's profile

TomFran

2942 posts in 2718 days


#8 posted 07-02-2007 03:30 AM

Niki,
Thanks for the tip on the super glue. I’ve never heard of using it for that purpose. My problem with super glue is that the shelf life is poor. It seems like I have to buy some every time I have a need for it, because the last one I bought is now dried up.

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2803 days


#9 posted 07-02-2007 05:59 AM

Tom
To extend the shelf life of CA, after using it, tap it lightly on the table (so the glue will go back to the tube and not remain in the nozzle), wipe the nozzle with a rag, close it ant store it vertically.

Long time ago, I was in the “Radio controlled Flying Models” hobby, the first “subject” that you learn in this hobby is “how to use CA”...The models are made of Balsa wood that is very soft (and light) and we used this “patent” to re-enforce holes and the threaded hole (i.e. the hole that the screw thread is going in), a drop of CA, turned the Balsa to be stronger than Oak.

I’m using this “patent” also to re-enforce the threaded hole of Jigs or anything that I have to screw/un-screw many times especially on Plywood MDF or Melamine (chipboard). After screwing the screw first time, I take it out, fill the hole with CA and let it dry for 15~20 minutes, the threaded hole will never loose it’s threads again

Regards
niki.

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TomFran

2942 posts in 2718 days


#10 posted 07-02-2007 05:05 PM

Niki,
Thanks for the “super” information on CA (super glue) ;^D

I guess I’ll have to get some now that I have some good uses for it, and maybe, if I follow your instructions here, I can have it more than a couple of weeks before it dries up on me.

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

View mot's profile

mot

4911 posts in 2760 days


#11 posted 07-02-2007 05:38 PM

Niki, another great display of ingenuity! I look forward to your posts!

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View woodspar's profile

woodspar

710 posts in 2823 days


#12 posted 07-04-2007 03:24 AM

Niki, Thanks again for you post. I enjoy your picture documentation of your inventive and creative jigs. I also learned from your dialog with Tom.

-- John

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2803 days


#13 posted 07-04-2007 10:19 PM

Thank you so much for your kind replies

Today I worked all day in…....Yes, laying “Floor panels” in relative’s house…

All my body pains (I’m not used to such a hard work) but…I got many left overs for my jigs and fixtures.

niki

View Mike Shea's profile

Mike Shea

152 posts in 2718 days


#14 posted 07-05-2007 01:09 AM

i went over what you wrote real quik and i have no idea what you are talking about. haha, it looks like to much work for me.

-- i can do all things through christ who strengthens me

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