'89 Powermatic 66 - Power Issues - Need Thoughts/Ideas/Help

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Forum topic by Humedav posted 03-24-2014 02:42 AM 1876 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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6 posts in 1853 days

03-24-2014 02:42 AM

Good evening all-

I have a recently acquired PM 66 from 1989. I have recently rewired my shop and brought the saw into the mix. I have the 3hp, 230v 15amp Baldor motor version. I hooked the saw up to my dedicated 240v outer on a 30amp breaker from a sub panel and nada. I bought the saw and at the time, saw it work. He had it on a 30amp double pole breaker using 10/2 wire. I replaced his wire with tool cord 10/2. I am showing 120 in each arm of the 240v outlet when I test voltage and see the same when I test at the machine on the input. Any thoughts? Starter switch? It worked within the last few weeks at the previous owner’s location, but it was transported by trailer over a couple hundred miles and then handled into its new home. The switch is a Telemecanique A202C, but am not sure entirely what type it is.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or ideas.

5 replies so far

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 3053 days

#1 posted 03-24-2014 01:42 PM

Unplugged, check all the connections in the switch box. I have experienced these loosening just from daily use.

Likewise check the box on the motor. Screws tight, wirenuts engaged.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Humedav's profile


6 posts in 1853 days

#2 posted 03-24-2014 04:08 PM

Thanks Lee. I had one of those OCD moments last night in bed where I popped up with the (potential) solution. I had one lower slot on the load center for distribution to the subpanel. I used a 50A slimline breaker and I think the way the GE panel is configued the slimline placed in the bottom lower slot would only contact 120V of power since it is not bridging the adjacent space (i.e., 120V + 120V) like you would with a normal size breaker. I nother words, I think I am feeding my subpanel with only 120V of power. We will find out.

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6 posts in 1853 days

#3 posted 03-26-2014 08:26 PM

For anyone who looks at this post for a similar issue, I thought I would note the solution to the problem to save you time and energy. I tested the poles on the 240V 30Amp outlet, which showed 120V to ground at both poles, however, I showed nothing across the two individual legs. After some thinking, I looked at the supply to the subpanel at the load center and realized that I used a slimline breaker and this did not connect to two 120V poles. I replaced the slimline with a fullsize 30Amp double pole breaker and then rearranged two 20amp single pole breakers to make room. Note it is critical for you to review the load center’s capacity chart to determine if (a) you are allowed to use slimline breakers, (b) where you can use the slimline breakers in the panel (most are towards the bottom, and© make sure that you are not exceeding the total number of circuits allowed for the panel.

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3261 posts in 2878 days

#4 posted 03-27-2014 03:55 AM

If you had put your meter on each of the screw terminals on the breakers you would have gotten 120V. If you had the true 220V breaker in place you could have done this and gotten 220V.

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6 posts in 1853 days

#5 posted 03-27-2014 08:21 PM

That is actually what ultimately tipped me off. I started at the outlet and saw ~120v per leg with nothing material across the two legs and worked my way back. I had a fullsize breaker (GE – QP) 30amp in the subpanel on two poles reading ~120v per leg at the screw terminal, but not 240v across the poles. Tracing it back to the load center it dawned on me that I had installed the slimline breaker a few days before and that this would only (incorrectly) load the subpanel with 120v power.

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