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Forum topic by ohtimberwolf posted 131 days ago 808 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ohtimberwolf

242 posts in 956 days


131 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: creative hook and loop straight edge sanding

I am working on a project that is beyond my abilities to do this any other way. I need to make a straight edge sanding tool that will let me straight /flat sand an area about 30 inches wide by 54 inches long on and existing floor.

I am leveling a spot on the floor that is lightly patched with dura-bond 90. I have an edge all around that area that I can use as a leveling guide so this is what I came up with but do not know where to purchase what I need in order to make it.

I have cut a 2×4 with tapered ends 6 inches longer than my patch. I would like to put a loop and hook type material on the 1 ½ inch edge of that 2×4 and fasten it with double stick tape. I have a roll of hook and loop 80 grit sand paper that I can cut a strip off of to then stick on to that so I can sort of bull float or long sand that dura-bond even to the rest of the floor.

Where can I get the hook and loop material to put on that 2×4 so as to make this straight edge sanding block? OR do you have a better suggestion. I would like hook and loop so if I ruin my paper or need a different grit I can replace it without messing with any type of glue.

Hope you all can help me with this as I really would like to get my cabinets set and get going.

-- Used to be a barn cat, now a lap cat...


18 replies so far

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

2857 posts in 1091 days


#1 posted 131 days ago

3M #77 spray adhesive. HF sanding rolls: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-20-ft-sanding-roll-assortment-61194.html

Easier yet, just shim the cabinets as most installers do.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

242 posts in 956 days


#2 posted 131 days ago

Thanks Dallas but this runs from just in front of the vanity locations and is almost in the middle of the floor. Should have said that in my first post. I don’t want to set the vanities until I get this fixed and the subfloor down so I have a sound base for my vinyl. I would rather not use adhesive if possible.

-- Used to be a barn cat, now a lap cat...

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1765 days


#3 posted 131 days ago

Why not run a router across it? You have the outer frame to run a router in a trough. The dura-bond 90 should be able to be cut with a router if you are sanding it now.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

2857 posts in 1091 days


#4 posted 131 days ago

Unfortunately, anything over about 1/32” is going to be a long term exercise in pain, based on personal experience.

I have always had good luck at leveling floors to the highest point with whatever it takes, sometimes that is nothing more than a shim, sometimes it is thinset.
One thing you’ll find is that no sub-floor is ever level or true.
None of the joists are true so what is on top of them isn’t either.
If you do get them true and check them a half hour later they’ll be off again.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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MrUnix

465 posts in 803 days


#5 posted 131 days ago

You can get rolls of velcro at pretty much any fabric store.. they come in a variety of sizes and colors and you can get it with a self adhesive backing.. or get the regular stuff and glue it on with some 3M 77 spray adhesive. At our local JoAnne Fabrics store, they have 3/4” X 5 foot self adhesive rolls for about $10.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View thetinman's profile

thetinman

218 posts in 142 days


#6 posted 131 days ago

I may be missing something but why not just rent a floor sander for a couple of hours?

-- Life is what happens to you while you are planning better things -Mark Twain

View mrjinx007's profile

mrjinx007

1322 posts in 372 days


#7 posted 131 days ago

Maybe use some string going from each corner to the opposite corner and use it as a leveling guide.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

242 posts in 956 days


#8 posted 131 days ago

rance, never thought about that but I think the dust would be everywhere. Doing it by hand would eliminate that and it isn’t that hard, just need to get it level from one place to the other.

Dallas, your correct, I’m just trying get it level from one area to another so I can have a reasonably level transition with little dust to put the subfloor (1/4”) down on.

Brad, those are quite thick but they might work as stated. The thing is I would have to buy and spray each new change of paper (if I ever needed to do that) instead of using what I have that will work with hook and loop. I just don’t have the part that the hook and loop paper I already have hooks to, to put on the 2×4.

Tinman, this is only a very small so to speak area and I already have every thing I need except the material that my hook and loop sandpaper fastens to. Also this would create very little dust to contend with.

It may seem I am shooting down all my helpers but that is not the case. You all have very viable suggestions and I appreciate them. Just trying to get that one material that would work best in this case. Thanks to all of you.

-- Used to be a barn cat, now a lap cat...

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2181 days


#9 posted 131 days ago

why not just use one of these guys ,a straight edge to keep checking it and a shop vac.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

465 posts in 803 days


#10 posted 131 days ago

The thing is I would have to buy and spray each new change of paper (if I ever needed to do that) instead of using what I have that will work with hook and loop. I just don’t have the part that the hook and loop paper I already have hooks to, to put on the 2×4.

Maybe I’m missing something here, but the velcro rolls come with both sides (they ship stuck together).. so you take the ‘hook’ part and attach to the 2×4 and throw away the ‘loop’ part (or visa versa depending on what is on you sand paper). If you are worried about thickness, you could always buy the 3/4 or 1 inch wide stuff and then cut a shallow dado in the 2×4 the same width so it will sit flush with the surface of the 2×4.

Cheers,
Brad

Edit: Jim’s suggestion (bellow) is a good one as well.. that stuff has the hooks on one side and the loops on the other. Might be a bit difficult to glue to the 2×4 though.. but it’s really useful to cut into small (3-4 inch) pieces and use them for cable ties and bundles. The stuff sold at fabric stores has a smooth backing (either cloth or plastic) that might make it easier to mount.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2181 days


#11 posted 131 days ago

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

242 posts in 956 days


#12 posted 131 days ago

A lot of good help here and I won’t forget it. I do have the problem solved for the time being. Since I wanted to get this done as quickly as possible I put double faced tape on the 2×4, cut and placed 60 grit strips on the tape to use as a gripper for the rolled 80 grip to hold on to. The two long strips of 80 grit worked and would not slip as long as I had pressure on it but as soon as I turned it down the strips would fall off. So, I stapled one end of each strip, stretched them tight and stapled the other end. Beat the staples down with a hammer it works great. I got the gap leveled to all other edges with very little dust but a fair amount of filler sanded off. Vacuum made a short work of that after sweeping. However, I still would like to find the other type of grip or loop that this fuzzy type of sand paper roll is to stick to. It is not really Velcro it is just sort of fuzzy feeling on the under edge.

Thanks again you all, I’m glad this part is over!!! I don’t do well using a trowel but that is life when moving west, sometimes you get an unexpected attack.

-- Used to be a barn cat, now a lap cat...

View rance's profile

rance

4125 posts in 1765 days


#13 posted 129 days ago

I’ve seen folks simply lay down felt paper. Yeah, like what you put on a roof, under the shingles. Add as many layers as needed for the low spots. It is easy to cut, makes NO dust, and best of all…..... it is CHEAP.

I understand about shooting down suggestions. You are looking for the one that fits YOUR sensibilities. Not a problem. :)

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View MalcolmLaurel's profile

MalcolmLaurel

210 posts in 227 days


#14 posted 129 days ago

“However, I still would like to find the other type of grip or loop that this fuzzy type of sand paper roll is to stick to. It is not really Velcro it is just sort of fuzzy feeling on the under edge.”

What you’re looking for is called a “hook and loop conversion kit”, for sanders made for stickyback paper that you want to use the velcro back on. I just got a round one for a disk sander, but they make rectangular ones too.

-- Malcolm Laurel - http://MalcolmLaurel.com https://www.etsy.com/shop/MalcolmLaurel

View DIYaholic's profile (online now)

DIYaholic

12976 posts in 1279 days


#15 posted 129 days ago

1 – Large sanding belt
2 – appropriately sized 3/4” ply panels
6 – wedges

Place the two panels inside the sanding belt.
Use wedges (2 wedges stacked together in 3 locations) to apply tension to the belt.
Go to town, Sanding to level….

Just a thought…

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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