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Help Picking a Tablesaw Blade

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Forum topic by TheWoodenOyster posted 159 days ago 931 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TheWoodenOyster

742 posts in 566 days


159 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

Hey everyone,

So, I am looking to get a new saw blade. I read Knotscott’s ABCs of Picking Saw Blades to help me decide on the style of blade I want to get. (THANKS so much Knotscott for your labor-intensive input, it is greatly appreciated by all of us!). To give you an idea of my needs and my situation, I’ll tell you a little about what I am usually doing in the shop.

I have a 3 HP early 90’s unisaw that has never lacked power even with 12/4 oak. I have found that many of my projects thus far have included at least 8/4 stock if not larger, so I do take advantage of the power of the saw and I deal with some hefty pieces of wood. I would say about 65% of the cuts I do are rip cuts and the other 35% or so are crosscuts with my sled. I work with pretty hard wood for the most part – Walnut, Hard Maple, Oak, Ash, Jatoba, Wenge. I ask a lot of my table saw and put it thru the ringer. Occasionally I’ll give it a break and feed it some 4/4 cherry, but that is about as easy as it gets in my shop. I would say cleanliness of glue line rips is important to me and repectable, but not perfect, crosscuts are also important. I have no problem using a block plane to clean up end grain if needed. As far as table saw care goes, I cleaned it up very well when I got it, but haven’t messed with it since. So, when it comes to maintenance and set up, I am probably somewhere in the middle of the pack. I am not a rocket scientist, but I don’t cut ceramic tile through my table saw either. I am looking for a blade in the $50ish dollar range, but could go up into the $60’s if need be. I’ll save for the $100 range once I see what the $50 range looks like and learn from that.

Hopefully, that gave y’all a good idea of what my needs are and will help you give me good opinions. From reading the ABCs, I am thinking that a 40 or 50 tooth, full kerf, ATBR blade is what I am looking for. These are the ones I have found that fulfill those requirements. Any opinions on these three? Or opinions on others I should check out?

Freud LU84R011

Tenryu RS 25550-2

CMT 215.050.10

Thanks in advance for the input everyone. And Thanks again to Knotscott for giving us all such an awesome article on picking saw blades. It is people like you that keep me coming back and giving back to the community at LJs.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster


24 replies so far

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

559 posts in 701 days


#1 posted 159 days ago

This may be common knowledge but you may want to look at the forrest WW series when you are ready to bite that bullet. I love mine. My next blade will be a Freud. For the price it seems they are fantastic.

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

View Nicky's profile

Nicky

636 posts in 2723 days


#2 posted 159 days ago

I have the Freud and the Tenryu. The Tenryu is a superior blade, although the Freud in my opinion is a good blade.

I buy most stock in the rough. What I found to be more efficient is to have a dedicated rip blade for stock preparation, and I’ve been using a Freud LM75R010. Just food for thought.

I’ve never used the CMT, so others may have an opinion.

BTW, Knottscott has contributed may informative posts here. His expertise has been very valuable to me.

-- Nicky

View TheWoodenOyster's profile

TheWoodenOyster

742 posts in 566 days


#3 posted 159 days ago

Nicky,

Interesting thought. I buy in the rough as well so I do a lot of ripping stock at the beginning of projects. I am sure that having a dedicated ripper would extend lifetime of blades a bit. I’d like to stick to one blade for now, but I might consider buying a cheaper blade for stock prep at some point.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View knotheadswoodshed's profile

knotheadswoodshed

167 posts in 803 days


#4 posted 159 days ago

If you are set on just one blade, you may want to give Infinity’s Super General a try, I have the thin kerf version and I really like it.
As I dont mind changing blades and given the types of projects I do, I have a different blade for each specific task.
oops, missed your price range…I find that the Freud works quite well for me as well.

-- Randy - "I dont make mistakes, I make design change opportunities" www.knotheadswoodshed.com

View jusfine's profile

jusfine

2280 posts in 1557 days


#5 posted 159 days ago

Athought there are a number of excellent choices and technology helps create better and better blades, I would also vote for the Forrest blades, have a similar older Unisaw as you do, and use them almost exclusively – the 30T for ripping lumber and the WWII (40T) for all other tasks. And the Chopmaster on my SCMS.

I do make up a lot of inlay and it gives me a finish that needs no sanding.

Worth a few extra dollars, in my opinion.

I have a few CMT and Freud Pro series blades, they see very little use in my shop – relegated to rough cutting.

All the Best!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1422 posts in 992 days


#6 posted 159 days ago

Freud Fusion

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View Woodendeavor's profile (online now)

Woodendeavor

216 posts in 1237 days


#7 posted 159 days ago

I would steer you toward the lower tooth count for ripping the thicker material. I swear by Tenyru blades, having tried most of the blades on the market you will find Tenryu on all of my saws, even my Festool TS75. I would look at Tenryu RS25540 and look at the Tenryu GM-25540 when you step up to a better blade

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5422 posts in 2006 days


#8 posted 159 days ago

A 30T ATB blade like the Forrest WWII would do pretty well, but is > $100.

Cripe Distribution is clearancing the Delta Industrial 40T 35-7657 for $18 plus s/h…that’ll perform as well, or possibly better than the LU84 or RS25550 (and likely the CMT 215.050.10). Ripping very thick material with any of those blades could cause burning, but the Delta 7657 leaves enough budget to add the Delta Industrial 18T for $21 (they’ll combine s/h to reduce costs)....that should handle those 12/4” moments handily, and will extend the edge life of your cleaner cutting blade.

The Super General, Fusion, WWII 40T, and GM25540 are undoubtedly great general purpose blades, but are also prone to burning in 2”+ material.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

528 posts in 1269 days


#9 posted 159 days ago

I rip rough stock on the bandsaw. :) It accomodates warped, cupped etc. stock more safely than a table saw.

I do all my crosscuts on a radial arm saw with an 80-tooth Freud “ultimate crosscut blade”, similar to LU85R010 but an older model without the red coating. I haven’t been a heavy or steady woodworker, but I’ve used that blade for 15 years and it’s still sharp.

I use the Freud 30tooth thin-kerf glue-line rip blade (LM74R010) on the table saw. For thicker stock, you might use the 24 tooth LU87R010 Freud rip blade.

That’s not what you asked, but the only experience I have with a combo blade is the one I took off my table saw when I first bought it.

Everything your saw does comes down to two things : 1) The teeth of the blade cutting the wood, and 2) The parts of the saw and assessories guiding the wood along the ideal path through the blade. Well, then there’s 3) Safety.

So, I figure it’s worth it to have multiple blades for different operations.

-Ocelot

View buildingmonkey's profile

buildingmonkey

66 posts in 178 days


#10 posted 159 days ago

The Diablo blades, made by Freud are pretty good. I bought 3 Tenryu blades from Carbide Processors, they were pretty reasonable for good quality blades, and they have free shipping. But I just had my new Hammer saw delivered today, and don’t have it set up yet, so can’t report on the blades or the saw yet. A lot of work coming on the farm now, so don’t know how soon I’ll be sawing away on the Hammer.

-- Jim from Kansas

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1656 posts in 1553 days


#11 posted 159 days ago

I use my table saw for ripping only so I have a 24 tooth blade in it. I cross cut on my 12” sliding miter saw.

-- In God We Trust

View bowedcurly's profile

bowedcurly

479 posts in 360 days


#12 posted 159 days ago

they have some 30T forrest on ebay for 85.00 free shippin I really like the 40T forrest good all around blade the Fusion just seems to push a little harder than a forrest, don’t know if it’s the coating or what

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View Paul's profile

Paul

510 posts in 196 days


#13 posted 159 days ago

I’ve been an Oshlun fan ever since picking up a 6” dado set. Since then I’ve used 3 other Oshlun blades, all have stayed very sharp through hard woods. I have not sharpened any of them yet as they are all 4 months old or newer.

at $30 a blade (amazon) I feel they are the same quality as freud blades.

Paul

View TheWoodenOyster's profile

TheWoodenOyster

742 posts in 566 days


#14 posted 159 days ago

After hearing everyone’s responses and thinking, I am wondering if a 30T ATB blade might be my best options for the moment…?

Like I said, and like many of you suggested, a lower tooth count would really help with the ripping. And I think I can make a 30T work for a lot of my crosscuts. Not many of my crosscuts are “final” product. Usually a plane or sandpaper at least hits them. I am thinking I could go with a mid range blade in the 30T range and make it with that until I can get a nice crosscut blade. I also don’t know how often I am going to want to switch my blade, and I think a 30T might be the best thing for a lazy guy who does a lot of ripping to have on there. Thanks for the recommendations guys. Any other suggestions still welcome…

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5422 posts in 2006 days


#15 posted 159 days ago

”I am wondering if a 30T ATB blade might be my best options for the moment…”

The Forrest WWII 30T is great if you can swing it (on sale for $89 shipped!), and the Delta 35-7653 is a solid bargain that’s similar (~ $35 shipped). Those are about the only two 30T ATB designs I know of….both will rip thicker material pretty efficiently, and should crosscut acceptably depending on how fussy your are about it. Both are made in the USA….(Ebay also has the former DW7653 Series 60 made in the UK for ~ $50 shipped).

Note that most other 30T blades are TCG “Glue Line Rippers” (CMT, Freud, Tenryu)... most aren’t recommended to rip over 1” (increased burning), and won’t crosscut as well as an ATB grind.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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