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attaching laminated particle board to laminated particleboard

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Forum topic by Vjeko posted 03-20-2014 11:00 AM 749 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Vjeko

135 posts in 2876 days


03-20-2014 11:00 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

What would you use (screws/glue/quantity/location) to attach
the following two panels to each other (they overlap 20cm – the area
in which they can be attached to each other) ?:
(a)laminated particleboard 2,5m high x 0.5m wide x 18mm thick
(b)laminated particleboard 2.5m high x 0.3m wide x 18mm thick

The 0.1m that panel (b) protrudes is where sliding doors will close
(this is the very outside panel of a builtin)

(this is my third try to get this answered – looks like I have written too much
in the other threads and frightened everyone away ;) )

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia


3 replies so far

View TechTeacher04's profile

TechTeacher04

325 posts in 993 days


#1 posted 03-20-2014 11:27 AM

Polyurethane glue is the best for that application. Make sure you apply water to one surface and glue to the other. Around the perimeter. You may want to put some blue painters tape to prevent the squeeze out from sticking to the finished surface. I would put screws every 12” or so, sorry i am a fan of the english system. Start screwing from the center and work your way out to prevent excess glue from getting trapped in the middle the panel. If the core is plywood or particle board use course thread wood or drywall screws. If the core is hardwood, i would doubt it, use fine thread ones.

View Rick's profile

Rick

8287 posts in 2494 days


#2 posted 03-21-2014 03:50 AM

I would use (and have done so) a Water Based Contact Cement. Applied Generously.

Applied with a Regular Paint Roller. Let it dry to the touch.

You have to be somewhat careful at this point because If any part touches … IT’S There to stay!

We usually lay some wood strips across one of the sections (Bottom One), they won’t stick to the Cement as long as they don’t have any Cement on them.

Lay the other piece on top. Align it, best you can. Slide the strips out as you proceed to Align & Stick them together.

After all is Out & Stuck, apply as much pressure to it all as you can by whatever method you can.

We have a small Hard Rubber roller for small pieces and we use a Heavy Steel Tile Roller for Larger Ones.

This Method will usually eliminate the need for other “Through Fasteners” especially if it will be Visible. If not, use some fasteners as pointed out above.

Hope it helps.

Rick

-- Hope Everyone Is Doing Well! .... Best Regards: Rick

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Vjeko

135 posts in 2876 days


#3 posted 03-21-2014 09:56 AM

There is certainly something wrong on this website – I wrote and later edited another post
and it’s disappeared (this has happened twice this week).

Couple more questions if I may:

If using fasteners – total thickness of 2 panels =36mm – would 30mm screws
sligtly countersunk to be some 3mm from opposite side be OK & what
is the usual distance of screw from edges ?

By screws every 12” – would this mean something
like 2 screws horizontally every 12” along height of panel ?

I want to add a more pronounced hardwood edgebanding (more like a face frame) to the two
outermost vertical panels – can this be done in any way without clamping ? I need to
scribe the edgebanding to the wall & would prefer not to disassemble the cabinet for clamping.
I was thinking of screws/glue & wood buttons to coverup the holes & add decoration.
The company which makes this type of builtin that I’m mimicking don’t use hardwood edgebanding
and just use acrilyc sealant instead of any scribing so I’m making things difficult in the name of
a better looking product ;)

PU/contact cement glues are best for glueing melamine/melamine. Which glue is to be used
for glueing mealmine/hardwood and hardwood/ particleboard ( need this for the hardwood edgebanding
but haven’t decided whether to edgeband with melamine first to avoid edges showing) ?

-- Vjeko Balas - Croatia

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