Bandsaw Setup / Snodgrass Video

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Forum topic by danofpaco posted 03-18-2014 09:13 PM 3993 views 1 time favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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118 posts in 1340 days

03-18-2014 09:13 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw

Just putting together my first bandsaw (Grizzly G0555LANV) and in preparation have read/watched everything I can find. It seems that universally, people praise the Alex Snodgrass video as THE resource to watch on bandsaw setup. After recently watching it again, I have some questions for those of you who have followed his methods.

You’ll notice he does two setups, one for resawing and another for “scroll work,” with the small blade setup requiring the Carter stabilizer. Being that I just bought this tool, it will likely be some amount of time before the wife agrees to let me spend a couple hundred dollars upgrading it with the Carter products. That being said, for “general use,” occasional resaw and mostly curve work, what is the best setup?

I plan on picking up a couple of blades, likely a 1/2” for resaw and 1/4” for curve work. Will following the Snodgrass method work for the small blade as well (if less ideal than using the stabilizer) or is that solely for resawing?

Have you followed the Snodgrass method for setting up your bandsaw and don’t have a Carter stabilizer for small blades? How well does your saw perform cutting curves using this setup?

Anything else I should think about or know at this point?

Thanks jocks, you’re the best.

-- Dan :: Minnesota

13 replies so far

View TheDane's profile


4939 posts in 3086 days

#1 posted 03-18-2014 09:18 PM

Dan—Buy the best blades you can afford … bargain blades aren’t a bargain.

I don’t have the Carter Stabilizers, but have set my saw up using Alex’s methods with great results whether I using a 1/2” Woodslicer, a 3/16” Carter Accuright blade or anything in between. Recently I have started using Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery and am very happy with the results.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View mantwi's profile


312 posts in 1320 days

#2 posted 03-18-2014 09:30 PM

I have the Grizzly G0555X and used the Snodgrass method and love the results. For sure use the general purpose setup, there are lot’s of inside cuts in scroll work and the bandsaw can only do them if you are willing to break and reweld the blade after you run it through a pilot hole. You’ll be if you just want to do outside cut’s you’ll find the saw will cut a pretty tight radius with the right blade. If you decide you want to do scroll work used scroll saws are easy to find and much cheaper than the Carter guide and can do things a bandsaw isn’t really designed for.

View danofpaco's profile


118 posts in 1340 days

#3 posted 03-18-2014 09:37 PM

I only used the term “scroll work” because Alex used that to describe his second setup. I don’t plan on using my bandsaw as a scroll saw. I would like to be able to cut tight curves when needed though.

Thanks for the feedback, guys.

I suppose this might be a good place to ask about blade selection as well. For resaw, I was going to pick up a 1/2”, 3 TPI, with a positive hook. Sound about right?

What would be the best general purpose blade for curve work? 1/4”? 3/16”? 1/8”? TPI? Set/hook/rake? I know there’s a time and place for everything, but I’m looking for a good, handles most curves well kind of blade to start with.

-- Dan :: Minnesota

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4408 posts in 3384 days

#4 posted 03-18-2014 10:35 PM

Each and everyone has an opinion.
I have the 0555LX, and have used basic setup with good results. No intent here to use the saw as a scroller, just basic bandsaw work.
It’s kinda like sharpening. Excess is only that. I much prefer to set my tooling for the intention.
There are those who adhere to the Snodgrass mantra. I choose to balance his thoughts with practical operation.
BTW, he does not advocate the urethane tires, and I found that I did NOT have to screw with the “co-planer” issue with my 0555LX.
Get good blades. Enjoy your new saw.


View MrUnix's profile


4045 posts in 1622 days

#5 posted 03-18-2014 10:56 PM

The Carter stuff is not necessary.. Alex just happens to work for them :)


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Chris208's profile


237 posts in 1693 days

#6 posted 03-21-2014 03:40 AM

You do not need carter products to get great results from your saw. I’ve used his technique on a harbor freight 14 inch saw and the classic Delta 14 inch saw with equal results. Simply put, if you do what he says, your saw will work great. His video made my bandsaw the used tool in my shop.

View timbertailor's profile


1591 posts in 848 days

#7 posted 07-12-2014 02:57 AM

I think the Carter stabalizer for 1/4” or smaller blades is only $75 or so. A great addition to any band saw if you are going to do some fine scroll work.

Keep the factory set up for 1/2” blades and up for resawing. It is all in the tuning for drift free and VERY straight cuts, with or without a fence.

-- Brad, Texas,

View jimmerz's profile


2 posts in 2369 days

#8 posted 06-18-2015 01:30 PM

Setting up the blade as described by A.S. Will work for both straight and curve work. The 3D
Or scroll set-up can be achieved with a standard blade guide system but can be hard on your guide blocks. Remember a 1/4 inch blade with standard blade set-up has a minimum citing Dia. of 1 1/2” I can get down to almost 3/4” if I move lower blad guide out of th way, push upper guide forward about 1/8th inch and set upper guide blocks to support back edge of blade by 1/16th inch. Remember to re-trac the blade so deepest part of gullet is in center of top wheel. Using this method works well if using a lower powered saw do not rush cuts. Experiment a bit.

View MrUnix's profile


4045 posts in 1622 days

#9 posted 06-18-2015 02:19 PM

With a stock setup:

Although, you can push those a bit tighter if determined enough :)
A stabilizer pushes them even tighter.


PS: If you are creative enough, you can make your own stabilizer that costs a fraction of what Carter charges… you just need to make the “Y” shapped holder and use a v-groove bearing, like:

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Blackie_'s profile


4527 posts in 1936 days

#10 posted 06-18-2015 02:23 PM

Dan, has a great point when it comes to selecting bandsaw blades but… myself I’ve had great luck with custom made bargain blades only I purchase mine locally from a vendor, he buys his stock in a roll and makes what you request, I purchase his blades 105” 3/16” up to 1/2” starting at $10.00 a blade for my grizzly it’s a 555P series with a riser kit and they are awesome never a problem and they cut like butter, if you can find a local shop I recommend you give them a try.

As for as Alex’s video yes I live by his setup and use the carter Stabilizer, when I need to resaw I just slap the stock guides back on.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

View Woodbum's profile


717 posts in 2489 days

#11 posted 06-18-2015 04:53 PM

Just a piece of advice: Keep your resaw blade for JUST resawing. Curved work will screw up the set of the teeth and make it really hard if not impossible to resaw with it.
Just FYI: I use a 1/2” Woodslicer for resaw and either Olson All Pro or MVP blades and /or Carter Accurite blades. for curved work, width depending on the radius of the curve that I am cutting. Not familiar with your saw, but I am using a 15 yr old Jet 14” saw. No as some have stated, the Carter accessories are not necessary, but I upgraded it to Carter guides and sometimes use the Stabilizer for the smallest blades and added a blade quick release about 7 yrs ago, and the results have been very noticeable. After 10 yrs I replaced the tires and that helped the accuracy of the cuts too. Alex’s video is good to use as a reference and starting point, but you will probably make some tweaks to his method based on your saw and work methods. Have fun and work safely.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View HappyHowie's profile


274 posts in 1368 days

#12 posted 10-27-2016 05:06 PM

I have found that I can always find great advice here from woodworkers that share their experiences on What a great resource for me.

I too have seen Alex’s presentation for bandsaw setups using Carter guides and accessories. I will rehearse Alex’s resaw setup again and again until I have it down in my muscle memory.

The purchase option will eventually rise to the top on my equipment priority list… I know, if I purchased and installed the Carter guides right away I might use my bandsaw in more applications, more often. I should think this through a bit more… I can’t help myself. I’m an engineer. I R 1.

-- --- Happy Howie

View MrUnix's profile


4045 posts in 1622 days

#13 posted 10-27-2016 05:19 PM

I know, if I purchased and installed the Carter guides right away I might use my bandsaw in more applications, more often.

If your saw has the standard HSS guide blocks, then replacing them with carter guides (or cool blocks, or whatever else is being hyped out there) is a waste of money IMO. And if you wind up getting the stabilizer so you can do scroll work with a narrow blade, you don’t use the machines blade guides at all, regardless of what is on there. A good 1/4” or 3/8” blade is a good compromise as you can do fairly tight curves while still being able to re-saw, and the stock guides will work just fine.


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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