There was a good pictorial on how to remove the upper bearings, but I can't find it at the moment.. think it was over at owwm.org maybe..
Anyway, the bearings are pretty simple. Top bearings are got to by first taking off the nut holding the wheel on and removing the wheel. At that point, the shaft will be loose, so you can remove the tension assembly on the back for cleaning also. The bearings will be in the wheel, and each one has a retaining clip behind it and there is a metal spacer between them. You can reach in with a screwdriver and move the spacer over enough to get a punch or wood dowel in there to knock the bearing out. Just keep going around in a circle (ie: top, bottom, left, right, repeat..). Once you get the first one out, the second one is a breeze. They are friction fit, so you don't need too much force. Then take out the retaining clips with some needle nose pliers. Here are all the parts involved:
In the middle you can see the cllips that sit behind each bearing, and the spacer that sits between them. The shaft is removed from the tracking hinge by pushing out the long skinny rod shown. Just poke it out from one side of the assembly and remove.. then the shaft will fall out.
For the lower bearings, start by taking off the wheel on one side and pulley on the other. The wheel has a woodruff key that may give you some trouble, but a good even force should break it loose. Then take off the compression nut on the pulley side. Once you have that off, if you are lucky, the outer (pulley side) bearing will just pop out by itself as it has some spring washers behind it (see picture). I've seen them with just one or two spring washers.. mine actually had 3! If it doesn't come out, just bang on the shaft from the front with a wood mallet or similar and it should pop it right out. Then you can do the same with the front bearing. These are more or less slip fit, so it shouldn't require much force. Parts involved are:
Ignore the ugly pulley in the picture.. that was the non-original one that was on my saw when I got it.. I later replaced it with the correct one (Delta P/N #5800)..
I would take the bearings out, or at least visually verify their numbers before ordering.. while they might be what is called for in the manual, they might not.. you never know what a PO may have done in the past. I've seen where they had been changed to the 'new' style bearings which don't have the extended inner race. The proper bearings should be 87502's up top and 87504's on the bottom. While you are ordering them.. go ahead and get two new blade guide thrust bearings (6200-ZZ). I think it was around $50 (including shipping) for all of them from
Accurate Bearing Co..
Get a spring if yours looks tired.. or leave it.. doesn't matter much unless you are unable to properly tension a blade, and it can always be replaced easily in the future if you decide.
Cheers,
Brad