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Forum topic by oklahomaben posted 133 days ago 1026 views 0 times favorited 32 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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oklahomaben

40 posts in 177 days


133 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: table saw problem

So I got a table saw for Christmas it’s a little porter cable contractors saw. I’ve used a table saw going up (my dad tried to show me some carpentry stuff…wish I would have paid attention now!!!) I know to put it in strait and not at an angle. I spend tons of time with a combination square making sure the blade is at 90° and measuring from the front of the blade to the fence to a tooth on the saw and then rotating the same tooth to the back side and measuring to the fence. And I am getting major pinching and towards the end of my cuts and MAJOR burning!!!! I attempted to make an end grain cutting board and the project has kinda gone to **.....it’s been SO hard cause my cuts are not even and straight and glue up has been well….less than ideal to be nice about it. I just don’t under stand what I’m doing wrong and now my cutting board looks decent to most people but like hell to me. The blade is a 40 tooth combination Freud blade. I bought it when I got the saw, cause I figured since the saw was smaller I want a GOOD blade so it’s not working so hard. Any advice would be very help full. The wood for the cutting board was hard maple and cherry.


32 replies so far

View The Box Whisperer's profile

The Box Whisperer

520 posts in 672 days


#1 posted 133 days ago

I would strongly suspect your saw is underpowered for cutting hard maple.

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

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Rick M.

3785 posts in 982 days


#2 posted 133 days ago

Rip blades use less power when ripping than combination blades. Otherwise, if you are confident in your saw setup it may be an issue with power. My guess is the uneven cuts are due to the fence flexing.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

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The Box Whisperer

520 posts in 672 days


#3 posted 133 days ago

Rick could be quite right about the fence. Do you have any pics of the saw?

-- "despite you best efforts and your confidence that your smarter and faster than a saw blade at 10k rpm…. your not …." - Charles Neil

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Paul

452 posts in 167 days


#4 posted 133 days ago

You say your cuts are “pinching” at the end of your cuts. This tells me your fence is not perfectly parallel to your blade. Along with the fact you say your cuts are not straight leads me to believe your fence is not parallel. Looking at the burn marks I would say your at least 1/64” if not 1/32” out of line on your fence.

I had no problem cutting maple on my old dewalt 744 job site saw, It was within 0.06” true from the front of the fence to the rear.

Paul

View woodchuckerNJ's profile

woodchuckerNJ

868 posts in 236 days


#5 posted 133 days ago

Rick might be right about that, see if you can clamp a piece of wood toward the back of your fence to prevent it from moving once you set it.

-- Jeff NJ

View bbc557ci's profile

bbc557ci

541 posts in 676 days


#6 posted 133 days ago

Hard Maple is just that…HARD. You don’t mention the size or model or hp of your saw so …..

A few things you might consider trying when ripping;
The fence, 1st make sure it’s properly aligned with the blade…this is important. Then, when you adjust the fence and lock it down, tap the back side over away from the blade side a teeny bit, maybe 4-5 thousnths. That should help with binding/burning.

The blade; For ripping you could try a 24-30 tooth thin kerf rip blade. Diablo is good bang for the buck (Home Depot sells’m). If your saw is underpowered as suggested above, you could try a smaller blade, maybe 7 1/4 or an 8 inch, again in thin kerf.

When ripping, be sure to keep your stock against the fence, don’t let it get pushed over towards the blade.

And most important… KEEP YOUR FINGERS OUT’A THE BLADE !!! :o)

Have some fun and let us know how ya do.

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

View crank49's profile

crank49

3338 posts in 1573 days


#7 posted 133 days ago

It might also be worth mentioning that the two woods that are the worst for burning are . . Maple and Cherry !
The above tips about backing up the fence to keep it from moving seems valid. The flexing fence was the reason I didn’t get the PC saw when I was shopping for a saw. You actually want the fence to taper away from the blade toward the rear very slightly, maybe a couple thou.
Another thing to check for is that your blade is clean. The sugary sap in Maple and Cherry tends to build up on the blade and that compounds the problem. I have even used a little tallow on the blade to help. Johnson’s Paste Wax on the table and fence. Slow steady and smooth feed.
Using a good push block, like the Gripper helps with the smooth feed and also improves safety.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5369 posts in 1977 days


#8 posted 133 days ago

Double check your blade to fence parallelism, including the riving knife, and consider getting a decent 24T TK rip blade like a Freud Diablo D1024 for ripping hard maple that’s that thick. Keep your blades clean, and try raising the blade a tad higher the next time you notice any burning.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Tony_S

416 posts in 1685 days


#9 posted 132 days ago

As has been said, Maple and Cherry are to of the worst woods for burning, but with that said, the burning that your experience is pretty excessive.

From what I’m reading (and seeing) in your op, the burning is happening(for the most part) at the back of the blade? And the ‘pinching’ your describing is happening between the blade and rip fence? Correct?

From what I can see in the photo’s, your main issue, among others is fence misalignment with the blade.
It also looks like your hesitating on the initial half of the cut. (to pick up a push stick maybe? Or reposition your hands?)
I would strongly suspect also that the material your cutting isn’t truly flat on the face either, and is changing plane on the table saw top as you push it through.

I’d bet the blade needs a good cleaning, if not resharpening after that kind of a workout.

Also, as for the blade. Is it a thin curf, or full curf?

-- "The trouble with people idiot-proofing things, is the resulting evolution of the idiot."

View oklahomaben's profile

oklahomaben

40 posts in 177 days


#10 posted 130 days ago

Sorry I’ve been away for a few days, the saw is a porter cable contractor saw with a 40 tooth Freud combination blade. The pinching is grabbing at the end of the cut and I actually a pretty bad kick back once which sent cutting board( after the first glue up) up in the air ( I didn’t panic and put my hands down) and then it fell back on the blade and ruined one of the strip :/ I the blade is only 3 months old with some weekend use and mostly on construction lumber for some small projects 2×4s 2×6s 1×4s. I did clean it afterwards with simple green and a lot of stuff came off…I bet from the maple. I recently cut some 1/4in birch plywood and same thing…not heavy burning all the way but towards the end, and it pinched really bad at the VERY end. I am checking the blade with a combination square at the front of the fence then rotating the same tooth to the backside and measuring the backside. I’m not using the miter on the wood it’s all fed by hand and a push stick (plastic one that came with the saw) I am slowing towards the end to grab the push stick really fast but I don’t feel like it’s long enough to justify the amount of burning I’m getting. I make sure the edge is completely flush with the fence before I start my cut and in watch the edge and the fence more than the blade when I’m feeding to make sure and keep it flush. Maybe it’s a combination of my technique and a slight adjustment off…. it is SUPER!!!!!! frustrating tho. So now not only ideas about problems but is there any like….exercises you all could recommend to practice with. It just makes SOOOO much more work added on to my project. I’d rather learn on scrap rather than projects. Maple and Cherry is an EXPENSIVE way to try and learn. Also last thing the saw handled the cherry just fine the maple…..not so much. I had to slowly! Feed it and when I heard it bog down I had to back off and let the blade get back to speed, because at a slow STEADY pace it tripped the breaker twice.

View oklahomaben's profile

oklahomaben

40 posts in 177 days


#11 posted 130 days ago

And THANK YOU GUYS SOOOO MUCH for all the help!!!!

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oklahomaben

40 posts in 177 days


#12 posted 130 days ago

This is how it turned out!!! Now I have to try and fill the gaps around the A ….Also my first attempt at an inlay. But suggestions on filling that is a whole NOTHER topic lol

View mrg's profile

mrg

519 posts in 1601 days


#13 posted 130 days ago

Measure your blade to the miter slot at front and back to make sure the trunnions are straight. Measure the fence to the miter slot, if straight then the trunion needs to be adjusted. The saw needs to be dialed in.

-- mrg

View Paul's profile

Paul

452 posts in 167 days


#14 posted 130 days ago

I’m not super safe nancy but your going to end up with a forehead full of wood if your still dealing with the same problems and have already had a kickback. Already had to say what I thought in my initial post nothing has changed.

Great looking cutting board though well done!

Paul

View fuigb's profile

fuigb

166 posts in 1559 days


#15 posted 129 days ago

I also use a contractor’s saw (Bosch 4100) and whether it is my saw, all contractor saws, or simple operator error I’ve found that the OEM guides and rails do only a fair job of keeping the fence & blade parallel.

Oklahoma, you posted that you are using a combination square to measure & set up for parallel. What sort of a combo square are you using? Squares from Sears or the big-boxes likely are not accurate enough for the set-up that you want. In order to achieve a high level of accuracy I use Woodpecker “precision clamping squares” and Whiteside brass set-up blocks. The leg of one against the blade, the leg of another against the fence, and then mate up the free leg of each to achieve parallel before clamping the fence to the table. The set-up blocks are for extra length if needed. A simple trick that works very well for me and as an added bonus there’s the satisfaction that comes from an extra use for otherwise infrequently-used tools.

-- - Crud. Go tell your mother that I need a Band-aid.

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