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Improving DC on a SawStop CNS

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Forum topic by RHaynes posted 03-17-2014 09:15 PM 2264 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RHaynes

112 posts in 1080 days


03-17-2014 09:15 PM

Topic tags/keywords: sawstop dust collection contractor table saw

I have a SS CNS with the DC panel accessory and the DC blade guard. The 4” hose from the shroud to the DC panel is correctly installed and then hooked up to the 4” line from my DC. The blade guard DC port is hooked up to a shop vac. I run both collectors when cutting on the saw. Here’s the thing: Even with the DC running, a lot of the dust manages to get hung up under the table and on the floor. There are big gaps between the top of the blade shroud/DC chute and the table top, which are needed in order to have enough clearance to tilt the blade. But, this also allows some of the dust to skip the shroud and build up under the table top or fall to the floor. I don’t have Hurricane Katrina for a DC by any means, but wouldn’t the system work better if the shroud met the underside of the table, forcing more of the dust to go into the DC system?

Do any other CNS owners have comments on the DC for this saw? I’m very interested to hear if anyone has modded their CNS to improve its DC capabilities. Comments along the lines of (1) “should have bought a PCS, then it wouldn’t be an issue,” or (2) “get a more powerful DC” may be accurate assessments of the situation, but I am SEVERELY space-limited and the CNS was a gift. I would certainly have preferred a PCS. And I’d love a big 3 HP DC system, to go with my imaginary 60’x60’ shop with 220V outlets all over, etc., but I have what I have and what’s done is done. Still, I’m 100% positive that it’s possible to mod the under-table guts of this saw to get more of the dust down into the shroud. If you’ve already invented this wheel, please help me out. Thanks!

-- "Sometimes the creative process requires foul language." -- Charles Neil.


7 replies so far

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Buckeyes85

108 posts in 1148 days


#1 posted 03-19-2014 11:29 AM

i have this saw and am still working on the DC myself, but here is what i’ve done so far. i have the overarm DC attachment and frankly the suction coming through that is anemic. i attribute that to 2 things: the 90 degree connection that SS makes for this – it should be a Y and an underpowered DC (1hp single stage). check out this link for more on that. http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3834. I’ve also enclosed the bottom and the motor as described in these articles. https://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/dust-proof-your-contractors-saw.aspx https://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/dust-proof-any-tablesaw.aspx. i can tell you the enclosure helps a lot. i’ll attach some pictures of my setup later

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Buckeyes85

108 posts in 1148 days


#2 posted 03-19-2014 01:21 PM

Here are some pics before i got the overarm attachment.

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RHaynes

112 posts in 1080 days


#3 posted 03-27-2014 03:54 PM

Buckeye85—THANK YOU! That was EXACTLY what I was looking for. I’ll post a follow-up with some pics. I have the SawStop outfeed table, which is plenty big to mount a a motor enclosure to. Did you remove the plastic blade shroud/dust chute from your saw after you enclosed it? Did you also replace the motor belt with a shorter one in order to change the position of the motor, or did you just build your enclosure around the motor as it was located with the stock belt?

Thanks again—I owe you one.

-- "Sometimes the creative process requires foul language." -- Charles Neil.

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Buckeyes85

108 posts in 1148 days


#4 posted 03-27-2014 04:53 PM

Glad it will help. I left the motor right where it was. i did not have the outfeed table and needed one. this is not as big as yours but its big enough and i braced it against the back of the saw (vs the floor) so that when i have to move the saw the legs dont drag. I did not take the dust shroud off either. There is a short 4” hose connected to the shroud and the back side of the back panel, and then on the other side of that is the connection for the hose going to the DC. I wanted to channel as much of the air as possible up to the blade area. This short hose is a pain to get connected….there is not much extra room in it (nor do you want there to be for air flow). and if it comes off, your box will fill up (speaking from experience). your idea about modifying the shroud is a good one. if you come up with something, let me know. thanks

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MikeyR1972

1 post in 901 days


#5 posted 06-15-2014 07:08 PM

Buckeyes85 What fence do you have? I have the stock fence that came with the saw, and am trying to design a box, but am having challenges working around the stock fence clamp. Appreciate your time.

-- Mike Palm City Florida

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Buckeyes85

108 posts in 1148 days


#6 posted 06-15-2014 10:34 PM

i have the upgraded fence. attached is a pic that might help illustrate the extention and the fence position. if your fence has a clamp on the outfeed end then maybe you mount a board on the underside of the fence rail that you can then screw the top to – that way you have the clearance you need between the saw table and the outfeed table. hope this helps

View English's profile

English

517 posts in 937 days


#7 posted 06-16-2014 01:39 AM

I have the Saw stop contractor saw, I have 4” duct with 5200 fpm velocity connected to the shroud hose and a 4” with 5200 fpm connected to the Over table collection hood. I made my own hood. I used plastic bolts to hold the lexan on to keep metal away from the blade area.
The basic hood design came from http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/shop-built-table-saw-overarm-dust-collection-hood-45394/

I plan to enclose the bottom of my stand because I am still getting a very small amount of dust escaping the shroud. The over table works great except for the last part of the cut when the blade starts exiting the board. I get dust thrown all over my shirt, but just for a second.

-- John, Suffolk Virgina

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