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Steel City 35990G Table Saw initial thoughts.

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Forum topic by Paul posted 03-16-2014 02:53 AM 1838 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Paul

721 posts in 1025 days


03-16-2014 02:53 AM

Topic tags/keywords: steel city table saw 35990g

Purchased a 35990G as a floor model from my local Steel City warehouse distributor. I figured I’d leave some initial thoughts of the saw as there was not much out there for information before I purchased.

Purchase cost was $500 and they threw in a free digital blade angle read out. This was a floor model that was in the front of the warehouse where customers walk in to display their products. It was assembled and explained to me that it was only used for a few test cuts. Sold! It’s essentially a new saw. They had 2 of their techs disassemble the 3 piece granite top and mobile base and fork lift it into the back of my truck.

Unlike most contractor/hybrid saws in this price range G715p etc, the steel city has true cabinet mounted trunnions.

Squaring the blade to mitre’s took 10-15 mins max. The next step, attaching the 2 granite wings. This is the only flaw I have found in the first 4 days of owning the saw. This was probably more my fault for over tightening one of the right wing bolts but I stripped the threads on one of the front right granite table wings. The granite is drilled out then filled with epoxy then threaded for 3/4” bolts. I drilled out the stripped epoxy re threaded and didn’t over tighten.

After getting both granite wings in place (They are heavier than cast iron) the rest of the setup was a breeze.

The fence rails are 2” by 2” square metal, the fence is a self squaring t style. There is a little slop in the fence when not locked down, it took some getting used to. When the fence is locked you would need to hit it with a hammer to nudge the rear end, it’s very solid!

Dust Collection!
TERRIBLE! the entire cabinet is theoretically enclosed with a 4” dust port on the bottom of the cabinet. With my 2HP HF DC on initial setup dust collection was around 50% (guessing) it was messy. BUT after getting inside the cabinet and sealing everything off, what a treat! after sealing the cabinet the 4” dust collection gets 95%+ of everything coming off the blade

Surprisingly the dust collection after sealing the cabinet is the best surprise about the 35990G. I spent 5 straight minutes cross cutting a 12” section of 3/4” oak ply nibbling away at it. There was practically nothing on the table top or floor.

I went with the granite top for a few reasons. It’s about 50lbs heavier than the cast iron top and reduces vibration and noise a little better. The granite wings meet at the mitre slots. This does 2 things for me, 1 there are no seams in the top, 2 the mitre slots are actually slightly adjustable.

I will post an official review of the saw after a few months of putting her through her paces but thus far I am highly impressed by this heavy contractor saw. If you have a Steel City warehouse distributor I highly recommend a call to see if they are parting ways with their floor models. At $500 bucks it’s a steal. Strong motor, no vibration, and very quite!

A monster saw in a contractor body.

Paul


12 replies so far

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2735 posts in 2037 days


#1 posted 03-16-2014 03:15 AM

Thanks for the impressions. :-)
My steel city saw arrives Monday. I ordered the 35955 with cast iron wings and 50” rails. I can’t wait. :-D

I’ll be posting impressions of mine as well.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Paul's profile

Paul

721 posts in 1025 days


#2 posted 03-16-2014 03:45 AM

NiteWalker,

Steel City’s lead tech was the one that gave me the walk over on mine. A nice little tip he gave me was EVERY SINGLE fence system they have fit on every single saw they sell. From the 2×2 tube on mine to the $450 beiss fence on their most expensive model.

I can upgrade to a 36” or 50” rails in the future with any of their fences. They are all universal no matter what steel city table saw you own.

edit: that means each rail system is pre drilled with 2 mounting options for the different fences or saws.

Paul

View Tom's profile

Tom

185 posts in 1180 days


#3 posted 03-16-2014 12:16 PM

great roundup of the first few days… can’t wait to see what you make with it.

-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI

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Paul

721 posts in 1025 days


#4 posted 10-15-2014 04:14 AM

After a full 6 months with the saw.

A lot has changed with the shop! little has changed with the main workhorse.

A few things I like and dislike. (Steel City is currently moving to a new line of product, this is not a review of their new product)

Likes:

The granite top: Glue ups! squeeze as much excess glue as you want out of those joints! leave the glue up on the saw over night and take a chisel to the table top in the morning. Poly? sure why not, chisel in the morning, shellac? sure chisel in the morning.

The true joy of having a large granite table saw top to work on is nothing sticks to it. Being in a small shop I use my table saw top as a bench and clue up center a lot, this alone give the top 5 stars.

Motor: 1.5hp 17amp motor for the cabinets that I make and the furniture that I do hasn’t bogged or been an issue on even 2.5” thick red oak with the correct blade.

Dust Collection: This will classify as a like AFTER you seal the inside. After sealing the inside of the saw, which took about 4 hours of trial and error I would classify the DC from the factory OEM 4” dust port excellent! I have a 6’ run of 4” hose to a 2hp HF DC and it’s plenty to suck everything off the surface.

The dislikes:

The fence, I want from a job site saw to this saw and was initially astounded by the lock and load t square fence! That lock and load fascination was quickly put to the test with 1/4” ply I was cutting for the backs of some cabinets. The rear lock on the rear rail is pretty weak. Its hard to adjust the back of the fence to keep very thin material from trying to get under it while ripping. I added material to the fence to adjust for it but am overall unimpressed with the accuracy of the fence.

Overall All! 4/5 stars.

My overall rating is based on some minor fixes, dc, fence etc but anyone can accomplish in a day.

I wanted to follow up my first post on the new saw if anyone was following.

Thanks,

Paul

View jacquesr's profile

jacquesr

339 posts in 883 days


#5 posted 10-15-2014 04:31 AM

Thanks

View Loren's profile

Loren

8295 posts in 3108 days


#6 posted 10-15-2014 04:33 AM

In pro shops for ripping laminate they sometimes have
a piece of 1/4” fiberboard or similar with a rectangle
cutout to drop over the fence. The laminate rides
on the fiberboard and can’t slip under the fence
this way.

View Paul's profile

Paul

721 posts in 1025 days


#7 posted 10-15-2014 05:33 AM



In pro shops for ripping laminate they sometimes have
a piece of 1/4” fiberboard or similar with a rectangle
cutout to drop over the fence. The laminate rides
on the fiberboard and can t slip under the fence
this way.

- Loren

Thanks for the tip Loren,

I did mention I modified the fence in my 6 month follow up.

the extended and modified fence is view able in the pics included on the follow up.

Thanks again,

Paul

View paxorion's profile

paxorion

1100 posts in 1505 days


#8 posted 10-15-2014 01:43 PM

Paul, sounds like you should copy and paste your summary into a review

-- paxorion

View Tombstone's profile

Tombstone

4 posts in 750 days


#9 posted 03-17-2015 12:39 PM

Paul
I just purchased the new version of your saw. Looks very similar. In your 6 month follow up photo I noticed your granite top looked very smooth and shiny (reflective). I cleaned mine with some simple green, to remove the slight oily film used in shipping, and waxed it with Johnsons paste wax. My top now has a milky haze that it did not before the wax. What did you do to yours?

View Paul's profile

Paul

721 posts in 1025 days


#10 posted 03-18-2015 03:30 AM



Paul
I just purchased the new version of your saw. Looks very similar. In your 6 month follow up photo I noticed your granite top looked very smooth and shiny (reflective). I cleaned mine with some simple green, to remove the slight oily film used in shipping, and waxed it with Johnsons paste wax. My top now has a milky haze that it did not before the wax. What did you do to yours?

- Tombstone

Tombstone,

Leave your granite top alone. I have experimented with paste wax and many other finishes. Leave it alone! The granite top alone is enough for a slick surface. I actually found putting paste wax on the top to be detrimental.

Do your glue ups on the top of the untreated stone, let dry and then run a chisel over the surface.

I use my TS as a work surface with the granite top. Nothing sticks to it. Add wax to the surface and glue will try to stick to it.

Paul

View Tombstone's profile

Tombstone

4 posts in 750 days


#11 posted 03-20-2015 12:06 AM

Pauil,

Thanks for the advice.
Also how did you seal the inside of the saw for better DC? My chute is probably similar to yours, where it has open gaps, that spit sawdust, where there should be seams.

Tom

View Paul's profile

Paul

721 posts in 1025 days


#12 posted 03-20-2015 01:23 AM

Tom,

Before laying the top on and bolting it up I put 1/2” packing foam sealing the top. The gaps on the metal on the inside of the case I used HVAC foil tape, after those 2 fixes it really sealed everything up well for the DC to pull pretty well.

Paul

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