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Good Fence for a Craftsman 113.xxxxx

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Forum topic by Tom posted 03-10-2014 03:27 PM 1663 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tom

185 posts in 1184 days


03-10-2014 03:27 PM

Hi All,

Well many of you guys have been great with advice helping me as I look to move from my jobsite DW744 to a bit larger, more shop friendly table saw. I finally sold my DW744x, traded it for a new Porter Cable 557 Biscuit Joiner and $200… thought is was a pretty fair deal. Anyways I am seriously considering picking up a Grizzly G0715p or trying to find time to pick up a PM65, in the meantime I picked up a Craftsman 113 model contractors saw, got it for $50 with a like new Freud blade on it. It seems in pretty good shape and cuts thick hardwood better than my DW744 did but the fence is horrible. I have no clue what would be a good choice for a decent fence without spending to much as I will likely be selling this saw at some point. Also have to ask if the Grizzly would be much of an upgrade off one of these (other than riving knife and cabinet format), to me they should perform similarly…

Here is the saw…

also if any of you guys have “tricked out” your 113, I would be interested in seeing what you have done… any riving knife options?

Thanks for any help.

-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI


19 replies so far

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3022 posts in 1261 days


#1 posted 03-10-2014 03:51 PM

Lots of good options. I found a Shop Fox Classic on CL for $50 and it has performed exceptionally well. I’d love to have a good cabinet saw for the power, dust collection, and better safety features, but the 113 with a good fence performs very, very well.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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gotnonickname

20 posts in 1036 days


#2 posted 03-10-2014 04:27 PM

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Tom

185 posts in 1184 days


#3 posted 03-10-2014 04:33 PM

Thanks Charles.

gotno… Thanks – does that come with everything needed to mount it? A bit more than I was hoping to spend, but then again a lot of guys are saying these old c-man are well worth fixing up, wish there was a riving knife option…

-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI

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hotbyte

842 posts in 2439 days


#4 posted 03-10-2014 04:36 PM

I bought same/similar saw new in late 80’s and after using the stock fence all this time, I replaced it with the Delta T2 that gotnonickname linked last year. At that time, they were difficult to find. I ordered from Tool Barn and it took a few weeks on back order. If you can find one, I’d say go for it! I wish I had replaced stock fence years ago.

I added a wooden filler between the rails because they stuck out well past right extension and also added a wooded extension along the back to give tabletop more depth. Now, i can slide a work table up to the back edge of my extension for even larger cut-off area. Lots of folks add a flip up cut-off table to them also.

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hotbyte

842 posts in 2439 days


#5 posted 03-10-2014 04:38 PM

Tom,
After posting, I saw your question to gotno. Mine came with everything needed to install but you have to drill holes in either the rails or tabletop. I choose to drill into tabletop and it was very easy. I used one of the original holes and drilled the others. This means that the applied ruler on the rail is off but I always measure blade to fence anyway.

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Tom

185 posts in 1184 days


#6 posted 03-10-2014 04:41 PM

Thanks hotbyte it certainly looks like an option… does yours have a riving knife? or are there any 3rd party means to add one?

-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI

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CharlesA

3022 posts in 1261 days


#7 posted 03-10-2014 05:11 PM

If you do the fence upgrade, I’d buy a replacement ruler so you can calibrate after installing. My SF Classic is very accurate—I bought a replacement ruler and I don’t need to measure with a tape measure before cuts.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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Tom

185 posts in 1184 days


#8 posted 03-10-2014 05:31 PM

Thanks Charles, I actually have a sticky tape left over from a Kreg bandsaw fence I bought… I wonder if either of the 2 fences you guys talk about would work on a Powermatic 65? I am most likely going to pick one of those up or a Grizzy eventually (Leaning Grizzly because it has a riving knife). I know many think this saw is all one needs but at least the one I have is not as solid as I am aiming for, it rocks back and forth a bit because of how the stand is, but it will do for some shop stuff I need to build while I decide on the direction I want to go… maybe keep this with a dado stack in it, who knows.

-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI

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hotbyte

842 posts in 2439 days


#9 posted 03-10-2014 10:46 PM

No riving knife and I hated the splitter that came with it. I use shop made zero clearance insert with a splitter glued into it. There is also the Micro Jig MJ Splitter .

There are some write-ups here on installing the fence where the ruler lines up correctly but I think you have to drill the rails. It also shifts the rails to the left so you end up with less capacity to the right of blade. The stock fence/ruler was so bad I never used and developed habit of just always measuring with tape measure.

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CharlesA

3022 posts in 1261 days


#10 posted 03-10-2014 10:54 PM

I use an MJ steel splitter pro with mine and am very happy with it. I use a crosscut sled a fair amount and it is a pain to take off/put on the stock guard.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View sawdustjunkie's profile

sawdustjunkie

343 posts in 1180 days


#11 posted 03-10-2014 11:35 PM

Tom: I have the same saw!
Upgrades to mine were zero clearance insert, link belt that takes all the vibration completely out and a Muel Cab fence system. The fence is fantastic and stays true. It did cost 5 times what you paid for the saw. Current price is $289, I just looked. It is a 50” rip capacity.
We already talked last week about my saw.
If you find a good used fence, you will probably have to drill holes in side of the wings, but it isn’t too hard to drill it out. It took me about 3 hours to install and made it line up properly.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

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Tom

185 posts in 1184 days


#12 posted 03-10-2014 11:39 PM

Thanks sawdust, was going to call you about your saw when I was told about this one… and for $50 I thought at the very minimum I would learn a bit about the inner working of a TS cleaning one up. This one surprised me, I thought I would have to replace the bearings, maybe the arbor if the threads were damaged but there is absolutely zero play in the bearings and the arbor looks good, pretty solid still for a pretty old machine.

I wouldn’t mind still coming over and looking at yours to see what the fence is like, heck I might even buy yours still since the min I could get a fence is $179. I still have your number in my email.

-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI

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sawdustjunkie

343 posts in 1180 days


#13 posted 03-10-2014 11:40 PM

Forgot to mention, use thin kerf blades, since it’s a 1.5 h.p. motor.
WD 40 and coarse steel wool, will clean the top quite well unless the cast iron is all pitted.
Then use a good past wax to keep it clean.
If the blade isn’t parallel to the miter slots, it does take awhile to line it up, but it’s not that hard.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

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Tom

185 posts in 1184 days


#14 posted 03-10-2014 11:42 PM

The top was in real nice shape (casting clean up on the wings could have been better)... I took my random orbit with 220 to it and some pastewax and it looks pretty good. Cleaned up the base and wings and painted with some black hammered paint and it looks like new.

-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI

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sawdustjunkie

343 posts in 1180 days


#15 posted 03-10-2014 11:51 PM

Just give me a call if you want to come and look at it.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

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