Craftsman 21833 - picked it up, need forum feedback

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Forum topic by WorksInTheory posted 03-02-2014 10:49 PM 4023 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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87 posts in 1019 days

03-02-2014 10:49 PM

Hi All – I thought rather than subsequently and inadvertently hijacking anyone else’s thread on this saw or any of the relatives, I’d create a new one.

Picked up the 21833 hoping that I get a good one. I got picked it up and got it into the garage and out on props basically by myself. Don’t ask me how I did it but I did it.

Took a bunch of pics of the inside of the cabinet and trunnion/motor and first, wanted to get the forum’s thoughts.

1) What do you think about what seems like rust throughout the parts? (circled in red)
2) Where do I find an id on the trunnion (BeeFarmer mentioned II on the R4512 and Steve mentioned JH on the 21833)?
3) I noticed that there are some “shims” underneath the trunnion ears that are towards the front. – Is this normal?
4) I noticed there are 2 screws for the plate connected to the front handwheel – is that an adjustment.

I have to travel for work tonight so can’t work on assembling this saw – it’s going to kill me! But when I get back would love to do the quickest test of alignment problems before going to far… and crossing my fingers! I don’t have a lot of time to deal with issues as I’ve got a 4th child coming around the corner and work’s been just crazy as well.

20 replies so far

View rayman54's profile


15 posts in 967 days

#1 posted 03-03-2014 01:47 AM

Just from what I can see, the trunnion had an alignment issue and was shimmed. I have never seen a trunnion shimmed before.
Assuming this is a new saw by how clean it is I would talk with store about rust issue, if you can live with it clean up the rust and get some paint on it.
The two screws look like they are to hold the hand wheel support in place.


View toolie's profile


2009 posts in 2045 days

#2 posted 03-03-2014 01:55 AM

the shimming of the trunion is to ensure that the blade is parallel to the miter slits at not only 90° but @ 45° also. this write up notes the purpose of the measurement and how to determine the amount of shimming a given saw requires:

this adjustment is usually needed on cabinet saws, but the process is also applicable to table mounted trunion saws like the 21833.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View WorksInTheory's profile


87 posts in 1019 days

#3 posted 03-03-2014 02:18 AM

toolie – thanks for this reference – it hurt my head royally to read it!

Great so not only need to deal with trunnion issues but compounded w/ someone’s shimming of the trunnion already… I have to order some tools before I can get to this (square, etc)

View toolie's profile


2009 posts in 2045 days

#4 posted 03-04-2014 02:33 AM

All you need to properly set up a TS is a $10 dial gauge from harbor freight and a properly fitting miter gauge. It can be done with lesser tools, but I like the way the dial gauge gives me a sense of the magnitude of the needs adjustments.

Check everything before removing those shims. Someone may have placed them there after doing the kind of alignment suggested in the linked ridgid forum thread.

I know what you mean about head hurting. I discovered an error in the poster’s calculations and he realized he had published an early version with a computational error( my screen name there is finer9998) once it was pointed out. But it’s still an excellent piece of work that applies to both cabinet and table mounted reunion saws.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View WorksInTheory's profile


87 posts in 1019 days

#5 posted 03-17-2014 12:45 AM

Started to put it together. Moving slowly as haven’t had much time as well as daughter wanted to help, which makes it going 5X longer, but great because she’s interested and learning about following directions and problem solving… and not watching TV. ;-)

So found out some interesting things.

1) I think I may have lucked out and got the trunnion w/ JH on it, which is same as Steveinohio and he says his has no issues.
2) mine is 218331 vs 218330 so seems to indicate second generation
3) code is 201312 – so does this mean Dec 2013 model?

and this is the most interesting of all…

4) the manual online is newer than my manual I had in the box. The manual I have also says 351.218331 – but here’s the interesting part – the back panel says 141.218331!

So – what manufacturer makes 141? Did the re-source this to fix the problem? I looked it up on a manufacturer chart for Sears and 141 does not exist.

View ohtimberwolf's profile


628 posts in 1769 days

#6 posted 03-17-2014 11:49 AM

This may help some just as more information. Be sure to read it all though. larry

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

View dhazelton's profile


2283 posts in 1713 days

#7 posted 03-17-2014 12:48 PM

That’s rust? That’s just patina. Seriously, an unfinished piece of cast iron or steel will flash rust in minutes from the humidty in the air, or if it’s cold and taken into a warm environment. I wouldn’t worry about it.

View WorksInTheory's profile


87 posts in 1019 days

#8 posted 03-17-2014 05:49 PM

Thanks ohtimberwold, definitely have read that one before many times over among other sources (a bit obssessive that way) ;-)

That one’s a bit dated. As mentioned looks like the details of my saw seem to be more recent including manufacture date, trunnion stamp and new model #. Hoping for the best – haven’t gotten to the alignment part yet.

View AaronKoch's profile


10 posts in 1038 days

#9 posted 03-17-2014 06:01 PM

If these are date coded the same as the Ridgids then your saw was likely produced in week 12 of 2013, so April-ish. But if the alignment holds who cares? :)

View WorksInTheory's profile


87 posts in 1019 days

#10 posted 03-17-2014 07:11 PM

Aahh interesting, I didn’t think of it that way. Will definitely update everyone once I can test the alignment.

My curiosity is killing me to find out what Manufacturer is 141 vs 351 as well

View gtbuzz's profile


427 posts in 1858 days

#11 posted 03-17-2014 08:09 PM

Aaron is right about the Ridgid date codes. The year then the week, up to 52. Not sure about the Craftsman, but it wouldn’t surprise me if they’re the same.

View WorksInTheory's profile


87 posts in 1019 days

#12 posted 03-20-2014 02:26 AM

knottscott – any guesses on code 141?

View knotscott's profile


7144 posts in 2792 days

#13 posted 03-20-2014 09:08 AM

”knottscott – any guesses on code 141?”

Nope, none….sorry.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Docproc's profile


1 post in 910 days

#14 posted 04-24-2014 05:57 AM

I too bought a new Craftsman TS.
The paperwork says model 218330 but the panel sticker says 218331 preceded by 141.
Date code 201401.
I have yet to check the alignment. Will post results when I get to that.
Am curious to know if Craftsman solved this issue. The trunnion design looks different than what I have seen on YouTube. I hope that is a good sign.

View Donchnz's profile


1 post in 831 days

#15 posted 07-12-2014 02:08 AM

I recently picked up my 10 inch saw 141.218331 from layaway and was eager to get started on the assembly . I have had Sears table saws before and have been pleased with most of Sears power tools till now.
I live in Miami and the temp get into the 90 F so working in my garage in 90 degree temp is demanding. I was only able to work 2-3 hours at a time and spent most of the week working slowly making sure that every step was correct and perfect.
Then came the time to flip the switch and add power. The blade started to turn up to RPM’s and then disaster the blade started making noise and came to a stop, I killed the power.
When I opened the cabinet panel I fund one of those spacers you mentioned and the drive belt off the motor off and laying in the dust collector.
At first I thought not a big problem just put the belt on. Then after looking closer at the motor it seems I need to turn the saw upside down and disassemble the motor. I then called Sears for help but all they want to do is send a repairman OK let them alien and replace the belt.
I figure that spacer and maybe other parts were left behind by the factory alignment process and this was an accident ready to happen,
I still do not understand how you are to replace the belt in the future. Now I have to wait ten days for the repairman, at least it is under warranty and they will be responsible for it.

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