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Sears 14" BAS350/Rikon 10-321 Bandsaw Wheels Vertical Alignment

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Forum topic by trimtwice posted 03-02-2014 10:41 PM 3501 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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trimtwice

5 posts in 1013 days


03-02-2014 10:41 PM

Hi. I have the Craftsman 14” BAS350 bandsaw mo.#124.32607, also Rikon 10-321. The upper Blade Guide up/down bracket runs out from the blade by a 1/16” or so to the left as the Blade Guide is lowered toward the table. After some inspection I think my Wheels are not vertically aligned at centers, causing the blade to run at an angle instead of true vertical. Dropping a line from center top wheel I run about 3/32-1/8” to left of center bottom wheel. Is there an adjustment for left/right positioning of the Wheels? Parts diagram seems to show the Tension Bracket having slotted holes, but it’s hard to tell from the drawing. The top wheel is attached to the Tension Bracket. I also wondered if there was any play in the bottom wheel shaft attach point? This is NOT BLADE TRACKING. I can always readjust the upper blade guides when I change the guide height, but if I can re-align the wheels maybe I can avoid constantly adjusting blade guides.


9 replies so far

View syenefarmer's profile

syenefarmer

432 posts in 2547 days


#1 posted 03-03-2014 12:11 AM

Go here and then click on “Lower Wheel Adjustment” in the Useful Information box on the RH side of the page.

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trimtwice

5 posts in 1013 days


#2 posted 03-03-2014 12:24 AM

syenefarmer, thanks, but i’m not talking about adjustment for tracking. As you look at the saw from work position with doors open, I mean left and right adjustment to make both wheels vertical and the blade vertical.

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trimtwice

5 posts in 1013 days


#3 posted 03-06-2014 02:56 PM

Update: Yes the Tension Bracket has slotted holes and is adjustable left/right. The upper wheel is attached to the Tension Bracket, so this should allow the wheels and blade to be aligned vertically. Unfortunately for me, the adjustment is now almost all the way in the direction I need. But, there is hope, I might be able to extend the slots. I’m in the process of getting this saw set up…

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patswood

2 posts in 811 days


#4 posted 09-21-2014 04:32 AM

Hi, i was wondering did it work i am in the same situation as you and i got rikon 10-325 and no experience with bandsaws at all i was hoping you can help me

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trimtwice

5 posts in 1013 days


#5 posted 09-23-2014 05:12 PM



Hi, i was wondering did it work i am in the same situation as you and i got rikon 10-325 and no experience with bandsaws at all i was hoping you can help me

- patswood


Hi. I never did try to make the slots wider in the tension bracket. Didn’t do much with it at all for the summer. How bad is your misalignment? In reality, if you’re out maybe 1-16”-1/8” then you can readjust your blade guides when you change the height. There might still be a slight misalign/twist of the guide wheels, which I suppose might affect curve cutting some. Now, are you saying you NEED to adjust the tension bracket and the slotted holes aren’t wide enough for adjustment? You could get a new one if your warranty is still good, but that doesn’t ensure the new one will be any better. I was going to try filing the holes with a small round file, to extend them. it should provide the needed adjustment, as long as there is enough metal left over between the slot and the edge of the tension plate. You should leave at least an 1/8” minimum, I’d say. There’s no real force on those slots when the plate is tightened against the saw body.

Read up on basic blade guide adjustment, blade changing and tensioning, and also on basic cutting and blade choice. It’s not real hard, but there are a few things to know. That will help you get going and decide what works or not. You can google that stuff.

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trimtwice

5 posts in 1013 days


#6 posted 09-23-2014 05:49 PM



Hi, i was wondering did it work i am in the same situation as you and i got rikon 10-325 and no experience with bandsaws at all i was hoping you can help me

- patswood


Hold It! You have a Rikon 10-325? for sure? Cause I’m talking about the Rikon 10-321 which is equivalent to the sears BAS350. The 10-325 has a different upper wheel mechanism and guide post mech. You’ll need to study what’s going on to see what parts are causing you problems.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1887 posts in 1602 days


#7 posted 09-23-2014 07:25 PM

I check wheel alignment this way as outlined and shown here.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/makingbandsawwheelscoplanar.pdf

Some people swear do not need to check wheels for coplanar. I have for my band saw and did not need any adjustment. Like it is says in the article if wheels are coplanar should not have to adjust blade guides as much when raising or lowering.

If wheels are coplanar and blade not on straight or worn might be the reason you are needing to readjust blade guides. I would also inspect blade weld, or if blade has a kink.

-- Bill

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Fishinbo

11362 posts in 1643 days


#8 posted 09-24-2014 08:41 PM

I’ve learned from Alex Snodgrass that don’t make the wheels co planar. It made a difference.

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Wildwood

1887 posts in 1602 days


#9 posted 09-24-2014 10:31 PM

Alex Snodgrass band saw clinic, while he talks about wheels not having to be coplanar also tells you to talk to manufacturer. So, I take what Alex says with a grain of salt because you do always get perfect blades or with blade wear over time have to make modest adjustments.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

Sears band saw manual does not address wheels other than tracking so do not know how they come set up. So went to Rikon and cannot download complete manual, but at one time did read about wheels need to be coplanar in their deluxe model.

My saw came coplanar from Grizzly. Here is what they say;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUsKPWwFHe8

If can get wheels coplanar on that Sears bandsaw it is easy to make modest adjustment so blade runs true.

-- Bill

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