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grizzly g1023

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Forum topic by jd53 posted 02-28-2014 01:33 AM 2265 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jd53

44 posts in 1037 days


02-28-2014 01:33 AM

Still can’t make mind up on a table saw. Just missed on a craftsman 22124. Now I found an older grizzly g1023, 3hp. with a 52” unifence for $400. Anybody have an opinion on this saw? Owner says hes had it for 15 years. I know plenty of people say get a unisaw or an older Powermatic but people are really proud of these in my area. I’ll buy new first.


14 replies so far

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knotscott

7211 posts in 2838 days


#1 posted 02-28-2014 02:00 AM

Nice saw, very well proven. $400 would be a great deal if its in good condition. Likely right tilting…..obviously no riving knife, but the BORK riving knife can be added to this saw. If you’ve got 220v, I can’t think of a better saw for $400.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1352 days


#2 posted 02-28-2014 02:33 AM

I paid $600 for mine, with a brand new 30” fence. I think thats a great deal. Albeit mines in almost mint condition. I love it. More than enough power. Check all the bearings too, not hard to replace, don’t let it be a deal breaker.

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jd53

44 posts in 1037 days


#3 posted 02-28-2014 03:06 AM

Yes it is right tilt. I keep reading that’s not safe because of stock being between blade and fence. I remember from my old high school shop you weren’t supposed to use the fence when crosscutting, so I’m kinda lost on that. Am I missing something? Or does it mean when ripping with the blade angled it would be towards your hand? I really don’t have room for that long of a fence system. Can the rails be cut down or would I need to do something else?

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firefighterontheside

13466 posts in 1319 days


#4 posted 02-28-2014 03:12 AM

The main concern is when ripping at an angle the piece is trapped between the table, fence and blade. If there’s not enough room between the fence and the blade for a push stick, once the cut is complete the piece will want to be propelled backwards. You can remedy this by moving the fence to the other side for angled cuts.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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jd53

44 posts in 1037 days


#5 posted 02-28-2014 03:26 AM

Thanks, didn’t think of it that way, but that’s not good. With a guard and kickback pawls wouldn’t that help also?

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keninblaine

130 posts in 1065 days


#6 posted 02-28-2014 03:40 AM

Sounds like a great deal to me if the right tilt isn’t a problem. EVen with pawls, I think you’d want to have the fence on the left side of the blade when ripping an angled cut. I wish that saw was closer to me!

-- Ken, Blaine Washington

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knotscott

7211 posts in 2838 days


#7 posted 02-28-2014 10:21 AM

”...I remember from my old high school shop you weren’t supposed to use the fence when crosscutting, so I’m kinda lost on that. Am I missing something? ”

Use the miter gauge for crosscuts, and the fence for rip cuts…..never at the same time, unless you’re using a stop block on the fence for crosscuts.

The tilt direction isn’t a huge deal to me….it’s really a matter of preference. There are pros and cans with each, and not much down side until you bevel the blade (which isn’t that often for a lot of us)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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jd53

44 posts in 1037 days


#8 posted 02-28-2014 05:01 PM

Thanks for your comments Scott. We may have a misunderstanding, I know not to use the fence for crosscutting. I was missing what was unsafe about a right tilt until I understood the angle ripping. Hadn’t thought of that. Correct me if I’m wrong, but can’t the unifence that is on the saw I’m looking at be used in a way similar to your picture with the stop block? Also can I cut down the fence rails? I don’t have room for a 52” fence system. I Was looking at the shark guard system, by the time I get that for $180 and if I would need a new fence, I may as well buy new. This is a lot harder to figure out which way to go than I thought it would be. Started out in the 500-600 range then moved up a bit and looked at the grizzly 0715 then started reading about 3hp saws. I don’t want to buy something I’m not gonna be able to use because of dealing with problems, even though a 3hp saw is more than I need.

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Quanter50

273 posts in 1759 days


#9 posted 02-28-2014 05:54 PM

In my opinion, you can’t go wrong with Grizzly. I picked up my G1023 used from a cabinet shop for $300 a couple of years ago. It came with the Biesemeyer fence and short rails. I made my own longer rails, added a router table w/router & speed control, and welded up the huge mobile base. I love this saw every time I fire it up! It cuts everything I put through it so far.

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jd53

44 posts in 1037 days


#10 posted 03-01-2014 02:27 AM

May have found a deal to good to pass up. Nearest Steel City dealer is having a march sale and they have a 35965, a 30” fence 3 hp cabinet saw for $900 and $49 liftgate delivery.

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jd53

44 posts in 1037 days


#11 posted 03-01-2014 02:29 AM

Only thing is it has a granite top.

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Brickman

51 posts in 1834 days


#12 posted 03-01-2014 02:15 PM

The Grizzly is a great saw. I have a 1023z that I added a Vega fence to. It is a workhorse.

-- Mark - Pueblo, Colorado

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bonesbr549

1176 posts in 2530 days


#13 posted 03-01-2014 08:01 PM

I had a 1023SLX with7’ rails for a little over 9 years and sold it for 800 with over arm guard. Great saw that never failed me at all. The 3hp is nice and I cut 12/4 no issues. So I’d say as long as the arbor has no runout and bearings are in good shape, thats a good deal. If not for a new sawstop and 5hp, I’d still have it.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

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jd53

44 posts in 1037 days


#14 posted 03-01-2014 08:42 PM

Thanks for the responses on your 1023’s, seems like a good saw. Quanter50 nice picture. If this stupid weather would straighten up I plan on looking at it. Hard to coincide shift work and weather.

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