LumberJocks

Branding / stamping questions

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by BTimmons posted 02-26-2014 05:27 PM 1195 views 1 time favorited 38 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View BTimmons's profile

BTimmons

2175 posts in 1228 days


02-26-2014 05:27 PM

I’ve been trying a few different ways to brand my recent projects, but haven’t found anything that works just yet. My biggest problem is size constraints. I need something that would go on the spines of my combs.

Click for details

This is the workable area that I could use.

I don’t want to fork over the $200 + for a custom electric branding iron. First I tried woodburning with a detail tip. Although I’m actually pretty good at drawing, it’s way too hard and time consuming to get decent results on such a small scale. Then I tried toner transfer with a laser printer. First with heat transfer, then with acetone. Then I realized that whenever I saw these methods illustrated on YouTube it was on pine or some other porous wood, but I’m using cherry and the results were always awful. The wood is too dense and fine grained for that method to work, apparently.

My brother the metalworker suggested I look at metal stamp kits like this. Anyone else gone this route? Any other simple, low cost suggestions are very welcome.

-- Brian Timmons - http://www.BigTWoodworks.com


38 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2392 days


#1 posted 02-26-2014 05:39 PM

I am using those metal stamps, but mainly to stamp on metal – and mostly single to 2 characters max. for repeated operation of a brand, and for ease of use, I would suggest against those, and more towards a branding iron, or a custom made single stamp that would include your entire branding into a single punch.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Woodendeavor's profile

Woodendeavor

227 posts in 1350 days


#2 posted 02-26-2014 05:50 PM

I use a custom r buster stamp as a makers mark.

http://www.columbiamt.com/store/Logo_R-Buster_Hand_Stamps.html

you can get them in sizes as small as 1/8

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

15450 posts in 1081 days


#3 posted 02-26-2014 06:32 PM

The buster stamp is really cool.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View BTimmons's profile

BTimmons

2175 posts in 1228 days


#4 posted 02-26-2014 07:05 PM

Hmm. The Buster stamp might be worth looking at long term. For now I might just have to get the HF letter kit and just stamp “BT”. Funds are tight at the moment.

-- Brian Timmons - http://www.BigTWoodworks.com

View bondogaposis's profile (online now)

bondogaposis

2738 posts in 1094 days


#5 posted 02-26-2014 07:07 PM

You could get a wood burner and just sign it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View BTimmons's profile

BTimmons

2175 posts in 1228 days


#6 posted 02-26-2014 07:51 PM

I have a wood burner, just haven’t been able to get good results with text 1/8th of an inch tall.

-- Brian Timmons - http://www.BigTWoodworks.com

View JayT's profile (online now)

JayT

2601 posts in 954 days


#7 posted 02-26-2014 07:59 PM

Brian, have you see how I am “branding” my shop built planes?

Starting with 1/4in stamps, then I use the stamped letters as a guide to carve out with a Dremel and fill with tinted epoxy. I don’t know why a similar idea wouldn’t work for your combs. Stamp the initials, then either use that as a guide to burn with a pointed tip or just fill the stampings with colored epoxy and sand flush.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View BTimmons's profile

BTimmons

2175 posts in 1228 days


#8 posted 02-26-2014 08:02 PM

Not a bad idea, Jay! I’ll have to try that.

-- Brian Timmons - http://www.BigTWoodworks.com

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1299 posts in 1190 days


#9 posted 02-26-2014 08:35 PM

Here are 2 links for branding tools:
http://www.brandnew.net/default.asp

http://www.wlenk.com/branding.html

but I still like the one LV sells:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32191&cat=1,43456,43462

-- Ken from Ontario

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1299 posts in 1190 days


#10 posted 02-26-2014 08:45 PM

View mrjinx007's profile

mrjinx007

1826 posts in 511 days


#11 posted 02-26-2014 08:51 PM

distrbd, I have really thought about those. I bet they can tolerate high heat; just have to be careful how much pressure is applied because it would be hard to place it exactly where it was once applied.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

433 posts in 978 days


#12 posted 02-26-2014 08:53 PM

I saw a You tube video and the person said to use an ink jet printer as a laser does not transfer well. He used a wood burning kit from HF and one of the tips was a large round circle. This was used to make the ink transfer onto the wood.
I do not recall what I was looking for when I came across it.

-- Jerry

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2592 posts in 2485 days


#13 posted 02-26-2014 08:54 PM

I would partner up with a local trophy shop that will laser engrave them for about 5 bucks.

Or you can use a razortip woodburning tool

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View 7Footer's profile

7Footer

1317 posts in 692 days


#14 posted 02-26-2014 09:14 PM

Brian when you used the heat transfer what kind of paper were you using? At first I was using regular copy paper (24lb. 98 bright) and it was crap, the paper burned too quickly and left marks on the wood. Then I decided to try some other paper I had (it was HP Premium Choice Laser, 32lb. 98 bright) that was considerably thicker, and that made a world of difference. I haven’t tried any other paper since because results have been so much better, but I would even try a lighter cardstock. I’ve been using that little Weller woodburning tool with the transfer tip on it. Also it does help a ton to dissipate some of the heat onto a piece of scrap before starting the transfer (or just plug it in about 2-3 minutes before you’re ready), unless you have the Walnut Hollow tool that has a temperature control.

I’ve been experimenting with several different methods for a while now too and heat transfer has given me the best results… And although I haven’t tried it on cherry I have had success with maple, oak, ash, purpleheart, poplar and plywood. And I always do the transfer before applying a finish.

Hope that helps!

EDIT: btw- your combs are badass!

-- Hot Damnit... Your booty like two planets, go ahead and go ham sammich -

View rhett's profile

rhett

699 posts in 2410 days


#15 posted 02-26-2014 09:21 PM

I agree with DrDirt, find someone with a laser engraver. You can get crisp detail down to 1/64”. Shouldn’t be a few buck per piece.

-- It's only wood.

showing 1 through 15 of 38 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase