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Branding / stamping questions

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Forum topic by BTimmons posted 154 days ago 1042 views 1 time favorited 38 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BTimmons

2078 posts in 1088 days


154 days ago

I’ve been trying a few different ways to brand my recent projects, but haven’t found anything that works just yet. My biggest problem is size constraints. I need something that would go on the spines of my combs.

Click for details

This is the workable area that I could use.

I don’t want to fork over the $200 + for a custom electric branding iron. First I tried woodburning with a detail tip. Although I’m actually pretty good at drawing, it’s way too hard and time consuming to get decent results on such a small scale. Then I tried toner transfer with a laser printer. First with heat transfer, then with acetone. Then I realized that whenever I saw these methods illustrated on YouTube it was on pine or some other porous wood, but I’m using cherry and the results were always awful. The wood is too dense and fine grained for that method to work, apparently.

My brother the metalworker suggested I look at metal stamp kits like this. Anyone else gone this route? Any other simple, low cost suggestions are very welcome.

-- Brian Timmons, Big T Woodworks - https://www.etsy.com/shop/BigTWW - http://vimeo.com/98821147


38 replies so far

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2252 days


#1 posted 153 days ago

I am using those metal stamps, but mainly to stamp on metal – and mostly single to 2 characters max. for repeated operation of a brand, and for ease of use, I would suggest against those, and more towards a branding iron, or a custom made single stamp that would include your entire branding into a single punch.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Woodendeavor's profile

Woodendeavor

211 posts in 1210 days


#2 posted 153 days ago

I use a custom r buster stamp as a makers mark.

http://www.columbiamt.com/store/Logo_R-Buster_Hand_Stamps.html

you can get them in sizes as small as 1/8

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

13348 posts in 941 days


#3 posted 153 days ago

The buster stamp is really cool.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

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BTimmons

2078 posts in 1088 days


#4 posted 153 days ago

Hmm. The Buster stamp might be worth looking at long term. For now I might just have to get the HF letter kit and just stamp “BT”. Funds are tight at the moment.

-- Brian Timmons, Big T Woodworks - https://www.etsy.com/shop/BigTWW - http://vimeo.com/98821147

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2446 posts in 954 days


#5 posted 153 days ago

You could get a wood burner and just sign it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View BTimmons's profile

BTimmons

2078 posts in 1088 days


#6 posted 153 days ago

I have a wood burner, just haven’t been able to get good results with text 1/8th of an inch tall.

-- Brian Timmons, Big T Woodworks - https://www.etsy.com/shop/BigTWW - http://vimeo.com/98821147

View JayT's profile

JayT

2098 posts in 814 days


#7 posted 153 days ago

Brian, have you see how I am “branding” my shop built planes?

Starting with 1/4in stamps, then I use the stamped letters as a guide to carve out with a Dremel and fill with tinted epoxy. I don’t know why a similar idea wouldn’t work for your combs. Stamp the initials, then either use that as a guide to burn with a pointed tip or just fill the stampings with colored epoxy and sand flush.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

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BTimmons

2078 posts in 1088 days


#8 posted 153 days ago

Not a bad idea, Jay! I’ll have to try that.

-- Brian Timmons, Big T Woodworks - https://www.etsy.com/shop/BigTWW - http://vimeo.com/98821147

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1013 posts in 1049 days


#9 posted 153 days ago

Here are 2 links for branding tools:
http://www.brandnew.net/default.asp

http://www.wlenk.com/branding.html

but I still like the one LV sells:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32191&cat=1,43456,43462

-- Ken from Ontario

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distrbd

1013 posts in 1049 days


#10 posted 153 days ago

View mrjinx007's profile

mrjinx007

1322 posts in 371 days


#11 posted 153 days ago

distrbd, I have really thought about those. I bet they can tolerate high heat; just have to be careful how much pressure is applied because it would be hard to place it exactly where it was once applied.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

344 posts in 838 days


#12 posted 153 days ago

I saw a You tube video and the person said to use an ink jet printer as a laser does not transfer well. He used a wood burning kit from HF and one of the tips was a large round circle. This was used to make the ink transfer onto the wood.
I do not recall what I was looking for when I came across it.

-- Jerry

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2364 posts in 2345 days


#13 posted 153 days ago

I would partner up with a local trophy shop that will laser engrave them for about 5 bucks.

Or you can use a razortip woodburning tool

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View 7Footer's profile (online now)

7Footer

867 posts in 551 days


#14 posted 153 days ago

Brian when you used the heat transfer what kind of paper were you using? At first I was using regular copy paper (24lb. 98 bright) and it was crap, the paper burned too quickly and left marks on the wood. Then I decided to try some other paper I had (it was HP Premium Choice Laser, 32lb. 98 bright) that was considerably thicker, and that made a world of difference. I haven’t tried any other paper since because results have been so much better, but I would even try a lighter cardstock. I’ve been using that little Weller woodburning tool with the transfer tip on it. Also it does help a ton to dissipate some of the heat onto a piece of scrap before starting the transfer (or just plug it in about 2-3 minutes before you’re ready), unless you have the Walnut Hollow tool that has a temperature control.

I’ve been experimenting with several different methods for a while now too and heat transfer has given me the best results… And although I haven’t tried it on cherry I have had success with maple, oak, ash, purpleheart, poplar and plywood. And I always do the transfer before applying a finish.

Hope that helps!

EDIT: btw- your combs are badass!

-- If a kid asks where rain comes from, I think a cute thing to tell him is "God is crying." And if he asks why God is crying, another cute thing to tell him is "Probably because of something you did." -

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rhett

697 posts in 2270 days


#15 posted 153 days ago

I agree with DrDirt, find someone with a laser engraver. You can get crisp detail down to 1/64”. Shouldn’t be a few buck per piece.

-- http://planeandsimpleblog.wordpress.com/

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