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Router in Table Saw - how do you install the switch

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Forum topic by WorksInTheory posted 02-25-2014 07:16 AM 1212 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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WorksInTheory

87 posts in 351 days


02-25-2014 07:16 AM

I will eventually put a router in a router table saw extension. I have a Triton. I want to put a switch on it for safety – maybe one of those big paddle ones. However in looking to buy one, I don’t think I know what I am suppose to get. All the switches seem to not have a place to plug in the router – rather they are hard-wired or something.

Am I missing something?


17 replies so far

View redryder's profile

redryder

2233 posts in 1850 days


#1 posted 02-25-2014 07:22 AM

This works great for me…..........

-- mike...............

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3868 posts in 2116 days


#2 posted 02-25-2014 07:56 AM

redryder, has a good one if you are happy with 15A rating!

I want to turn on my shop vac with the same switch that I use for my router so 15A is not a high enough enough for my application and I may need to add a contactor.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

260 posts in 417 days


#3 posted 02-25-2014 01:39 PM

The big drawback to the Triton, in a table, is the power switch has to be in the off position for the crank to be able to raise the router to the full up position and lock the arbor. I had this setup with a separate power switch because I didn’t read the manual fully and didn’t notice the part about the power switch. It’s kind of a waste of time to add the separate power switch with a Triton router.

-- Earl

View JADobson's profile

JADobson

398 posts in 859 days


#4 posted 02-25-2014 02:37 PM

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SCOTSMAN

5591 posts in 2334 days


#5 posted 02-25-2014 04:27 PM

J A has a good suggestion I have several of these in my shop. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

260 posts in 417 days


#6 posted 02-25-2014 05:05 PM

That is also the switch I use in my table.

-- Earl

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WorksInTheory

87 posts in 351 days


#7 posted 02-25-2014 09:53 PM

JADobson – that would work perfectly (by the way how do you do that reply w/ the posters post quoted thing I see around here).

Is there a cheaper version or is all the cheaper ones not “pluggable”? Or do I have a bad benchmark of cost?

retfr8flyr – that sucks. I got the Triton so I wouldn’t have to buy a lift or bend under to lift the router up but now sounds like I do anyways b/c of the switch? What about for safety, would it still be worth it b/c how do you shut the router down quickly then in emergency.

I haven’t opened the Triton box yet but I bought it for myself for Christmas so it’s been sitting there a while so probably can’t return.

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

260 posts in 417 days


#8 posted 02-26-2014 02:18 AM

That’s exactly what I was doing, trying to avoid buying a lift. I had mine mounted in the Incra Clean Sweep dust box so for me it was just easier to pull the router out of the table to change bits. One little turn of the locking screw and I could just pull the plate and all out. I still use the Jessem switch just for shutoff safety. Other then for changing bits it wasn’t that bad of a setup but I still had to go under the table and lock the height, or it would move on me sometime and ruin a piece. i finally got tired of it and put in the Incra Mast-R-Lift II and a PC 7518 router. I now use the Triton for hand work.

-- Earl

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5603 posts in 2124 days


#9 posted 02-26-2014 10:07 AM

I just use an old Craftsman table saw switch, and plug my router into it.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

5842 posts in 605 days


#10 posted 02-26-2014 03:37 PM

It’s true that you have to reach under the table to slide the safety device to turn the router off to be able to change the bit. I know many have been able to easily remove the safety guard and eliminate the problem. I’m probably going to do this. I never change a bit without unplugging anyway. Also you have to reach under the table to lock the clamp. This does not bother me either. Previously I had to remove my router from the table for each bit change. It’s a good router and I can raise and lower and change bits from above the table. As far as the switch goes, seems like you found the best option. For me it’s just a 20A receptacle wired in my table cabinet. Router plugs into it and there’s a 20A switch mounted on the side to turn on and off. Works great for me.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View LeChuck's profile

LeChuck

419 posts in 1811 days


#11 posted 02-26-2014 04:45 PM

I have a Triton router and a paddle switch to use with it. I only have to activate the switch on the router when changing the bit, and only use the paddle switch the rest of the time. As mentioned, you have to reach for the clamp as well. Really not a big deal. Don’t let that change your mind as paddle switches are great, and the Triton’s built-in lift is excellent. On both my table saw and my router table (which are all in one), I’m setup to just be able to move a little to the left and bump the switch with the top of my leg to turn the machines off.

I got the switch from Rockler. It plugs into the power cord, and the router’s cord plugs into the switch.

-- David - Tucson, AZ

View WorksInTheory's profile

WorksInTheory

87 posts in 351 days


#12 posted 02-26-2014 09:49 PM

So I think I get it, so if I didn’t want to buy one of those pre-done switches w/ plug outlets already… I could, for example get a big ole paddle switch but then get a outlet receptacle and wire it to that switch and it would accomplish the same thing. Then I can plug the shop vac + router to a single button as well.

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firefighterontheside

5842 posts in 605 days


#13 posted 02-26-2014 10:22 PM

Yes that would work.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

3868 posts in 2116 days


#14 posted 02-26-2014 10:30 PM

WorksInTheory make sure that the switch can handle the router and the shop vac turning on at the same time!
A router rated at a couple of HP and a shop vac of similar rating is too much for a 15A switch. It will work for a little while!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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WorksInTheory

87 posts in 351 days


#15 posted 02-27-2014 09:05 AM

This switch should be big enough for the amps and is future proof for 220v as well don’t you agree?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243

So just need a 2 plug outlet wired to it?

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