|Forum topic by freixas||posted 02-24-2014 11:16 PM||9804 views||3 times favorited||12 replies|
02-24-2014 11:16 PM
I’ve had problems with the RIDGID table saw R4512 fence and I’ve seen some complaints from others. The problem is that, when locked, the fence is not parallel to the blade (or the miter track). So I decided to spend some time trying to figure out the problem.
I performed every adjustment in the manual with no success and I took the fence completely apart to try to figure out the problem. Here’s what I think is happening.
When the fence is not locked down, there is a little bit of play in it. This comes from the gap between the T-end of the fence and the edge of the table. There’s an equivalent gap where the T-end fits into the groove on the rail.
Trying to reduce the gap so as to eliminate this play just locks down the fence so that it won’t move or won’t move easily.
In theory, the play shouldn’t be a problem. As the fence is locked down, the T-edge should be pulled toward the table. This should eliminate any gap and also straighten the fence. The problem is that the rubber grip on the far side of the fence locks down the fence in whatever position it is in before it can straighten out, so the fence stays at whatever crooked angle it is in.
In the above image, the fence is not aligned properly. Clamping it down doesn’t change the orientation at all.
My solution (we’ll see how well it works in the long run) was to replace the T-end of the fence with a home-built version that has no play. Here’s what it looks like:
The new T-end has a piece that fits into the rail groove with little play. This piece is made from a sandwich of wood and UHMW plastic. When this piece is in the rail slot, the edge of the T-end touches the edge of the table. Now, when I slide the fence, it remains parallel to the blade even when the fence is not locked down.
As shown in the last photo, I was able to move the plastic distance cursors from the old T-end to the new one.
I made this T-end from 1/2 MDF. Portions of it are routed down to 1/8” thick. The UHMW-wood sandwich fits into the rail guide and there is a thin piece of wood that spans the small gap from the top of the sandwich ot the bottom of the MDF.
This is a hack, but it seems to work OK. I’ll know more after I use it for a while. I hope this helps someone having the same problem I had.