The Ridgid R4512

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Forum topic by BeeFarmer posted 02-24-2014 04:41 PM 12699 views 6 times favorited 54 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View BeeFarmer's profile


35 posts in 1582 days

02-24-2014 04:41 PM

Topic tags/keywords: r4512 alignment ridgid saw tablesaw

Just want to put it out there that there is a fix for those saws that have the alignment issue. I purchased the R4512 2/15/14 it had the problem. I emailed Ridgid and was sent a new main trunnion free. The new trunnion is a thicker casting and has roman numeral II on it. If you are going to buy this saw open the box and look for II on the trunnion at the back of the saw, or at least know it can be fixed. With the new trunnion you still must release the pressure on the raise/lower wheel but the blade stays dead on. Took about 4 hrs to swap out, you will need a press (mines 12 ton) to remove the big bolt the motor pivots on. This is not a hard job.

-- My worker Bee's are all female... Does that make me a pimp?

54 replies so far

View paxorion's profile


1107 posts in 2071 days

#1 posted 02-24-2014 04:52 PM

Very promising news indeed. I’d be curious to hear if there is in fact a resolution to the issues that will be rolling out for future purchases.

-- paxorion

View AaronKoch's profile


10 posts in 1647 days

#2 posted 02-24-2014 05:26 PM

I called RIDGID to ask them if the new trunnion would be put on new saws from the factory. The guy I talked to said that if there is a revision in the casting then it should be on the new saws from the get go. He did not, however, have any kind of official word from RIDGID that there was in fact a redesign. He recommended trying to get a saw manufactured after June/July of 2013; I don’t know if that was a hint as to when a change may have made or if that’s his guess as to what the newest stock out there on the shelves would be.

View lumbermeister's profile


128 posts in 2005 days

#3 posted 02-24-2014 05:26 PM

Thanks for the post. What sort of a “12 ton press” was required to remove a bolt?

View paxorion's profile


1107 posts in 2071 days

#4 posted 02-24-2014 06:47 PM

That little tidbit that RIDGID told AaronKoch regarding post June/July 2013 manufacturing dates can be confirmed.

BeeFarmer – When was your saw manufacturered? If it was after June/July 2013, then it would cast doubt on a date-based check.

-- paxorion

View WorksInTheory's profile


141 posts in 1628 days

#5 posted 02-24-2014 11:11 PM

Hopefully there will be the same fix for the 21833… well actually I won’t need it if I pick up this saw!

View BeeFarmer's profile


35 posts in 1582 days

#6 posted 02-25-2014 01:13 PM

My saw was made March of 2013, I should have taken pictures of the differences. I was checking thicknesses with digital calipers and it was evident that it was thicker. In an email to Ridgid (replied to by a Tim Beasly of One World Technologies) he said he asked their technician what part would be replaced concerning my issue and the tech replied only the trunnion. My press is just a 12 ton shop press, you’ll need steel blocks to support it or short piece of 2” pipe. It doesn’t take a lot of force but you won’t do it with a hammer. Did a lot of work on it yesterday and still good.

-- My worker Bee's are all female... Does that make me a pimp?

View BeeFarmer's profile


35 posts in 1582 days

#7 posted 02-25-2014 02:53 PM

Here is a summary of what I did, You use this info at your own risk, I assume no liability if you do this swap.

Flip the saw over and remove the 4 bolts holding the base, remove the base.

Have the arbor all the way down (blade removed, riving knife should have been removed before flip).

Adjust angle to access big nut on motor pivot, first remove belt tension bolt, Remove big nut now raise the arbor some and the belt will loosen, slip belt off arbor pulley, the motor will now slide off the pivot bolt but you may have to turn the height wheel as it comes off.

Adjust back to 90 remove angle wheel and 2 bolts holding the plate, unscrew shaft.

Remove height wheel and pointer.

Remove rear trunnion cap.

Remove main trunnion, tipping and turning to get height shaft thru slot.

Remove parts from trunnion, once bare press big bolt out. The arbor does not come off till the bolt is out. I did it with the nut on but down past flush so if I messed up threads I could clean them up with the nut. Probably didn’t need it. If you put nut on take it off after bolt starts to move.

Arbor pivot hole must be lined up when you put the bolt in new trunnion. Press bolt in. The metal plate that guides the arbor must be on before the arbor is installed. That plate guides the riving knife leave the bolts loose. The arbor will not move up and down that slot till reassembled.

Do not forget the part on the old trunnion that the angle shaft threaded in, easy on the retainer.

Put all parts on the new trunnion, reinstall trunnion and trunnion cap, snug bolts.

Install angle shaft and tilt to put motor on.

Have the height wheel on, place motor on bolt, get belt on as motor is installed, turning wheel to mesh gears, install big nut and tension bolt, if you get big nut too tight it will be hard to raise / lower blade. Crank motor down to tighten belt, might have to pry as in manual, double check belt alignment on both pulleys. Tighten tension bolt.

Reinstall base, flip saw upright, install blade and riving knife.

Everything needs to be adjusted;

Riving knife – adjust the slotted plate to keep knife away from blade when raising / lowering

Recessed screws on table top back out till blade is aligned.

Trunnion – I won’t detail, we all know this but remember the angle shaft holds the trunnion from moving side to side, if you need to move the front cap, I had to 90 the blade, measure, turn the angle wheel in the direction I needed slack, tap cap, re-90 the blade then measure. I did have all 4 bolts loose.

Table top screws – facing the saw, right is 45 and left is 90

Adjust angle pointer.

I did turn mine on with the blade removed, just to be safe, but all was fine.

-- My worker Bee's are all female... Does that make me a pimp?

View woodcox's profile


2038 posts in 2037 days

#8 posted 02-25-2014 04:06 PM

I’m in the market for a new saw.. Is there a date of manufacture on the box? If so, where?

-- "My god has more wood than your god" ... G. Carlin.

View WorksInTheory's profile


141 posts in 1628 days

#9 posted 02-25-2014 08:58 PM

Sorry What I meant was

“Hopefully there will be the same fix for the 21833… well actually even better, I hope I won’t need the fix if I pick up this saw!

Yeah it’s confusing b/c scanning the parts manual there are more than one part w/ Trunnion in the name.

View BeeFarmer's profile


35 posts in 1582 days

#10 posted 02-25-2014 10:56 PM

Just got an email back from ridged – me swapping out the trunnion will NOT affect my LSA warranty. I have used this saw for the last two days building beehive equipment, checked the blade tonight and still within 0.001.5. When looking up the part it’s the “main trunnion”. All I can say is.. I would not buy this saw or the 21833 without opening the box and seeing II in the casting. Both saws are made by Dayton I would assume they use the same parts supplier.

-- My worker Bee's are all female... Does that make me a pimp?

View carver1942's profile


93 posts in 1730 days

#11 posted 03-03-2014 05:35 PM

BeFarmer you had better luck than me. I just spoke to Ridgid on the phone about my R4512 saw with the blade shift. I purchased it on 10/11/13. It has the blade shift issue. The tech that I spoke to said that I would have to return it to HD and have them send it to a service center, or bring it to a service center myself. The nearest service center (an electrical service company) is 60 miles away, and the person I spoke to said they hadn’t worked on one, but his guys could figure it out. For me to get this saw to a service center is extremely difficult, as it weighs 250 lbs and won’t fit in my vehicle. I would have to rent a truck or trailer which is costly. When I explained that I had been a machinist for 50 years and was capable of doing the repair, he said they could not send me the part as it was a liability problem. When I explained that I knew others that have received the part under warranty he said it was not possible. By the internet chatter and U-Tube videos out there Ridgid has to know about the blade shift problem and should have done a recall or at least pulled the ones that were made before the design change off the store shelves. I’ve seen where others on the internet have attempted to make repairs to correct the blade shift. It a darn shame that a buyer has to “repair” a brand new item. It should be okay right out of the box. I am dead in the water as I need to build 18 kitchen cabinets next week. I will try my best to get the job done using this saw. I will then put an ad on Craigslist and sell it for what I can get and buy a better saw. As I’ve said before, other than the blade shift issue I like the saw, and I’m upset that I have to dump it. No more Ridgid products for me.

View knotscott's profile


8057 posts in 3401 days

#12 posted 03-03-2014 08:30 PM

Carver1942 I feel for ya, and I agree with you….you shouldn’t have to fix a new saw. I’d hate for you to sell the problem to someone else unless they’re ok with it. Considering how long Ridgid/HD has had to remedy this issue and that they’re obviously still dumping these things in consumer’s laps, I’d be tempted to buy a new R4512, and return it with the current defective trunnion (assuming the new one is good). Being sure to explain that it has the alignment problem, so they won’t restock it and sell it to someone else…’s a dose of hardball for sure, but it puts the issue back where it belongs. Not everyone will think highly of this idea, and it isn’t my typical “M.O.”, but it’s fair to you, and IMO it’s the lesser of a couple of other potential evils here…

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Craftsman70's profile


244 posts in 2150 days

#13 posted 03-03-2014 09:38 PM

I second that. Ridgid has to have known about the issues for years as it has been so well documented on the web and so many people have called their customer service number regarding the issue. Despite that, they have sold thousands of defective saws. Given that, I think buying a new one and returning the defective one is what you should do.

View MT_Stringer's profile


3172 posts in 3256 days

#14 posted 03-03-2014 09:50 PM

Where are the pics? Inquiring minds want to see. :-)

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View WorksInTheory's profile


141 posts in 1628 days

#15 posted 03-03-2014 10:22 PM

Any option will be a pain as that sucker is heavy!

showing 1 through 15 of 54 replies

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