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chessboard box help needed

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Forum topic by mrRuben posted 02-23-2014 03:03 AM 1517 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mrRuben

19 posts in 1022 days


02-23-2014 03:03 AM

Topic tags/keywords: chess puzzle box board

I would like to create a box where the sides of the box can be disassembled and locked together to form the actual chessboard. The size of the top and bottom would be 4 by 6 squares, front and back 2 by 6 squares, left and right 2 by 4 squares.

I need some help figuring out how to join the pieces together so hold together in the box shape and the board shape.
I was thinking of using wooden pegs or biscuits, but I not sure that’s the best way to go about it especially since the front and back would consist of 4 pieces (as a chessboard is not 6, but 8 squares long).

any advice would be appreciated.


8 replies so far

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Mark Shymanski

5314 posts in 3180 days


#1 posted 02-23-2014 09:55 AM

An interesting idea. So the box could hold all the pieces when not being used but fold out to form the board when in use…cool idea.

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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mrRuben

19 posts in 1022 days


#2 posted 02-23-2014 10:03 AM

yes that’s the plan. the chess pieces themselves would be very simple an fit right into the board/box, no extra edges, borders or other unneeded wood :-)

this is what the pieces will look like (I might change their design a bit)
http://minimalissimo.com/2010/09/1966-chess-set-by-lanier-graham/

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Mark Shymanski

5314 posts in 3180 days


#3 posted 03-12-2014 01:51 AM

Could you use dovetails so that they could serve to hold the sides on, but then also hold the board together?

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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athomas5009

293 posts in 1085 days


#4 posted 03-21-2014 01:17 PM

There are a couple problems I see with the use of dovetails. Since the box he is looking to create is suppose to be able to fold from a box to a flat chess board I don’t see how one could accomplish this with dovetails since they are a sliding and locking joint. Also dovetails tend to fit really well the first time they are mated up and progressively worse there after which could become another proble down the road. Now this line of thinking is all based on my understanding that you want this box to fold from chess board to box with no joints seperating from each other just flipping perse.

Whether it be wooden or metal I believe a hindge is the only way to accomplish this. Perhaps a small hole drilled through all mating end pieces with a thin brass or stainless rod passing threw. Then connect the other mate by having some type of spline sticking out an inch in 2-3 places. The spline would insert into a snuggley fitting slot and the rod could be passed through it.

Or if you wanted to make things a little simpler you could go to a speciality hardware store and check out different jewelry box hindge designs and go with something like that.

I’m no expert by any means but that is the only way my mind could lay things out.

-- Sometimes you're flush and sometimes you're bust, and when you're up, it's never as good as it seems, and when you're down, you never think you'll be up again, but life goes on.

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athomas5009

293 posts in 1085 days


#5 posted 03-21-2014 01:46 PM

Sorry for a second reply so soon or with out your comment but I was intregued by your idea and did a little searching. This link should help you better understand what I’m talking about.

http://mokkou.jp/woodhinges/MakingWoodenHinges.pdf

My choice to of the word spline was erroneous. It would be better to think of it as a box or finger joint that works like a hinge. So the brass pin or what ever metal you choose would pass through a hole in one piece and through the finger joints in the mating piece. If it was me I would do it slightly different than in the article I posted. I would make the finger joints out of the board pieces instead of seperate pieces that are glued on. More strength and a much cleaner design.

Either wAy you go it’s a great idea and I’m interested in seeing how this project comes together.

-- Sometimes you're flush and sometimes you're bust, and when you're up, it's never as good as it seems, and when you're down, you never think you'll be up again, but life goes on.

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mrRuben

19 posts in 1022 days


#6 posted 03-21-2014 06:37 PM

what I came up with is 2 pieces of 4×4 squares and 4 pieces of 2×4 squares. this way you have a box of 4×4x2 squares.
by squares I mean the squares of the chess board. It will look best if I use them for sizing.
Then I’m thinking of using wooden dowels in the sides to pin them together both in box form and in board form.

The only thing I don’t want to do is cut holes in the bottom of the squares, so I’m stuck there for the moment.
I’ll draw a simple plan this weekend to illustrate.
I could use splines for the box that are the same width as the board will be thick so I avoid drilling holes in de squares. But that means in the board form, I’d be left with those splines that are useless.

So I started thinking of a way to use the splines to make a border around the board, but that won’t work either I guess because the splines would be either too small or to big to go around the board.

as of size, I was thinking of making the squares 6cm*6cm and the base size for the pieces (pawn) cubes of 4×4
that way the pieces would stack up nicely in the box.

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mrRuben

19 posts in 1022 days


#7 posted 03-21-2014 09:37 PM

the pieces with 4 spacers so I can get away with glueing dowels only in the sides of the board pieces

the box form

the board form. the 4 spacers (4 square length each) give me just enough to add a row and column marker.
the black lines indicate the pieces, so you can see how the sides of the box fit together to form the board.

a cross section …

I hope this explains my intent better. I apologize for the crude drawings ;-)

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mrRuben

19 posts in 1022 days


#8 posted 03-29-2014 07:06 PM

While my quest to find the perfect system for the box-board and the search for the perfect lumber continuous, I got started on the dark pieces today. The queens crown still needs work and the all need some more sanding and a finish. other than that, I’m quite please how they turned out. As you can see in the pictures, the pieces fit nicely together and form one and a half layer so that together with the white pieces it will form three even layers.

btw the color of the table the pieces are on is green, so the pictures don’t do the wood justice I’m afraid.

and here is the new box-board design. If I attach the pieces of row and column indicators to the top and bottom part of the box, I can flip them over and use the extra space to fit in the sides. I hope the (crappy) drawings explain what I mean.
Feel free to comment and suggest changes, but I think this one might be it. I allows for a nice fitting box + the goal of no unnecessary wood is achieved.
And since this would put the row/column indicators (I don’t know the correct term for them) are now on the opposite corners of the board, it gives the standard look a little twist.

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