Weird tablesaw problem

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Forum topic by Chris208 posted 02-21-2014 03:54 PM 1404 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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239 posts in 2264 days

02-21-2014 03:54 PM

Hello LJs

I’m having some trouble with my tablesaw and I can’t figure it out.

When using my miter gauge, which is square to the blade, I get an unsquare cut. It off over a 16th over 13 inches.

In this picture one end of my One Way gauge is against the fence of my miter gauge, and the other side is against the teeth of the blade. Very close to perfectly square.

This picture shows the same thing from a different angle. I get the same result using a 12 inch Combe square and a 6 inch square.

I’ve tested it with the blade raised and lowered – no difference.

I initially though my splitter was throwing things off, so I removed it -no change.

I also though maybe the face of my miter gauge might have gone out out of flat because it’s hardwood, but it checked out fine.

Any ideas?


Chris Johnson


19 replies so far

View Pezking7p's profile


3217 posts in 1645 days

#1 posted 02-21-2014 03:58 PM

It looks in the picture like your blade is off a LOT relative to the square. Not a little bit but a whole boatload. The results of your 13” cut confirm this problem.

EDIT: Ok so I re-looked at the picture. It’s not as bad as I thought, but it still looks to be 10+ thousandths off over that 4-5” span. I would adjust your 90 degree stop by as much error as you see over 13”, and try again. Repeat until you’re satisfied.

-- -Dan

View OSU55's profile (online now)


1664 posts in 1983 days

#2 posted 02-21-2014 04:00 PM

Sounds like your blade and miter slot are not parallel. You can check by measuring the distance to the slot at the front and rear of the blade.

View a1Jim's profile


117090 posts in 3571 days

#3 posted 02-21-2014 04:11 PM

Or your fence is not square to your blade

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View woodchuckerNJ's profile


1274 posts in 1628 days

#4 posted 02-21-2014 04:24 PM

Blade and miter are not parrallel that’s the first check.

-- Jeff NJ

View Chris208's profile


239 posts in 2264 days

#5 posted 02-21-2014 04:34 PM

I just busted out my feeler gauges. There is no gap between either the fence on my miter gauge or between the one way and the blade. The fence of the miter guage is square to the blade.

Even if the blade wasn’t parallel to the miter slot, it shouldn’t matter, because the miter gauge is square to the blade.

View johnstoneb's profile (online now)


2910 posts in 2167 days

#6 posted 02-21-2014 04:43 PM

If the blade is not parallel to the miter slot as you feed the wood into the blade the miter slot will direct the wood either into or away from the rear of the blade giving you an angled cut irregardless of how square your miter guage is to the blade.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View knotscott's profile


8006 posts in 3370 days

#7 posted 02-21-2014 04:43 PM

Do you get the same result from both miter slots? What saw do you have?

(p.s.: clean that blade!)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View bbc557ci's profile


595 posts in 2068 days

#8 posted 02-21-2014 04:48 PM

What Bruce said in post 6.

What I would do… Get the blade aligned with the table/miter slots first, then go with remaining adjustments from there.

If the blade is not aligned with the slots/table, everything else will be out’a whack.

-- Bill, central where near the "big apple"

View Chris208's profile


239 posts in 2264 days

#9 posted 02-21-2014 04:50 PM

Thanks for all the help guys.

The blade is parallel to the miter slots – both of them. I checked by marking a tooth with marker and checking the distance at the rear and front (same tooth) with a combo square.

It’s a ridgid 3650.

View JayT's profile


5620 posts in 2205 days

#10 posted 02-21-2014 04:52 PM

+1 to Bruce’s explanation. Need to realign.

Edit: If you are certain the blade and miter slots are parallel, then the issue becomes technique.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View bbc557ci's profile


595 posts in 2068 days

#11 posted 02-21-2014 04:55 PM

Another thought…. in your 2nd photo is appears there is a slight gap at both the front and rear of the blade, or am I seeing things? Maybe a shadow affect or whatever?

Anyways, if the blade isn’t “flat” check to see if your arbor/blade washer is the same size as, or matches up with, the flange on the other side of the blade. If the arbor washer is over sized (as in a blade stabilizer) it can cause a “cup” affect in the blade.

-- Bill, central where near the "big apple"

View jakep_82's profile


105 posts in 2300 days

#12 posted 02-21-2014 04:56 PM

It does matter. If it’s far enough out of parallel, the piece you’re cutting will rub against the plate as you push the piece through. It looks like you have burning on your blade plate which indicates that it isn’t parallel to the miter slot. You may not notice it, but this will cause the piece to slide as you continue pushing through the cut and the result is that it’s not square.

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile


1294 posts in 2066 days

#13 posted 02-21-2014 05:45 PM

If you find your saw conforms to the recommendations above (parrallel to slot, mitre square to blade {use what some here call 5 cut method to check for square, not a square}) then examine technique. If the ripped sides of the piece are not parrallel, and you are cutting two ends, it can come out out of square. My thoughts there. If you find the saw is accurate… a good account of how you cut and tested might help the crowd solve this problem. Happy safe cutting!

-- Who is John Galt?

View DrDirt's profile


4424 posts in 3736 days

#14 posted 02-21-2014 06:13 PM

See using your guage and dial indicator – is your blade running parallel to the miter slot.

the mitre GUAGE angel to the blade is misleading you, if as the guage moves in the mitre slot, it is basically moving AWAY from the blade (or closer)

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View Grumpymike's profile


2238 posts in 2309 days

#15 posted 02-21-2014 06:45 PM

+1 on Bruce and JayT. I had the same problem with a ridged 2424 … After four or five attempts at squaring the blade using the trunnions and a combo square, I bought a dial indicator, then things started to straighten out.
As your manual states, step #1 is to square the blade to the miter slot by loosening the trunnions slightly and tapping them till the blade is exactly square to the miter slot. (If you are .001 off here you will be .010 off on the cut.)(also make sure that your blade isn’t tweeked, I see that you are using an old blade, bad sign, heat warps a blade. ... borrow a new blade.)
Now that the blade is square to the miter slot you can square the fence and the miter gauge.
The instructions for this first adjustment to your saw is near the end of the assembly instructions in your manual. (page 23 in my book)
I know that adjusting the trunnions is a knuckle buster and frustrating, but take your time here because every adjustment to your saw hinges on this setting. Please make sure that the arbor washers are clean and setting squarely on the arbor.
Good luck and keep us posted on the results.

-- Grumpy old guy, and lookin' good Doin' it. ... Surprise Az.

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