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Weird tablesaw problem

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Forum topic by Chris208 posted 57 days ago 681 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Chris208

144 posts in 772 days


57 days ago

Hello LJs

I’m having some trouble with my tablesaw and I can’t figure it out.

When using my miter gauge, which is square to the blade, I get an unsquare cut. It off over a 16th over 13 inches.

In this picture one end of my One Way gauge is against the fence of my miter gauge, and the other side is against the teeth of the blade. Very close to perfectly square.

This picture shows the same thing from a different angle. I get the same result using a 12 inch Combe square and a 6 inch square.

I’ve tested it with the blade raised and lowered – no difference.

I initially though my splitter was throwing things off, so I removed it -no change.

I also though maybe the face of my miter gauge might have gone out out of flat because it’s hardwood, but it checked out fine.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Chris Johnson

Boise


19 replies so far

View Pezking7p's profile

Pezking7p

441 posts in 153 days


#1 posted 57 days ago

It looks in the picture like your blade is off a LOT relative to the square. Not a little bit but a whole boatload. The results of your 13” cut confirm this problem.

EDIT: Ok so I re-looked at the picture. It’s not as bad as I thought, but it still looks to be 10+ thousandths off over that 4-5” span. I would adjust your 90 degree stop by as much error as you see over 13”, and try again. Repeat until you’re satisfied.

-- -Dan

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

95 posts in 491 days


#2 posted 57 days ago

Sounds like your blade and miter slot are not parallel. You can check by measuring the distance to the slot at the front and rear of the blade.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

109347 posts in 2079 days


#3 posted 57 days ago

Or your fence is not square to your blade

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View woodchuckerNJ's profile

woodchuckerNJ

438 posts in 136 days


#4 posted 57 days ago

Blade and miter are not parrallel that’s the first check.

-- Jeff NJ

View Chris208's profile

Chris208

144 posts in 772 days


#5 posted 57 days ago

I just busted out my feeler gauges. There is no gap between either the fence on my miter gauge or between the one way and the blade. The fence of the miter guage is square to the blade.

Even if the blade wasn’t parallel to the miter slot, it shouldn’t matter, because the miter gauge is square to the blade.

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

510 posts in 674 days


#6 posted 57 days ago

If the blade is not parallel to the miter slot as you feed the wood into the blade the miter slot will direct the wood either into or away from the rear of the blade giving you an angled cut irregardless of how square your miter guage is to the blade.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5149 posts in 1877 days


#7 posted 57 days ago

Do you get the same result from both miter slots? What saw do you have?

(p.s.: clean that blade!)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View bbc557ci's profile

bbc557ci

521 posts in 576 days


#8 posted 57 days ago

What Bruce said in post 6.

What I would do… Get the blade aligned with the table/miter slots first, then go with remaining adjustments from there.

If the blade is not aligned with the slots/table, everything else will be out’a whack.

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

View Chris208's profile

Chris208

144 posts in 772 days


#9 posted 57 days ago

Thanks for all the help guys.

The blade is parallel to the miter slots – both of them. I checked by marking a tooth with marker and checking the distance at the rear and front (same tooth) with a combo square.

It’s a ridgid 3650.

View JayT's profile

JayT

1738 posts in 713 days


#10 posted 57 days ago

+1 to Bruce’s explanation. Need to realign.

Edit: If you are certain the blade and miter slots are parallel, then the issue becomes technique.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View bbc557ci's profile

bbc557ci

521 posts in 576 days


#11 posted 57 days ago

Another thought…. in your 2nd photo is appears there is a slight gap at both the front and rear of the blade, or am I seeing things? Maybe a shadow affect or whatever?

Anyways, if the blade isn’t “flat” check to see if your arbor/blade washer is the same size as, or matches up with, the flange on the other side of the blade. If the arbor washer is over sized (as in a blade stabilizer) it can cause a “cup” affect in the blade.

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

View jakep_82's profile

jakep_82

27 posts in 808 days


#12 posted 57 days ago

It does matter. If it’s far enough out of parallel, the piece you’re cutting will rub against the plate as you push the piece through. It looks like you have burning on your blade plate which indicates that it isn’t parallel to the miter slot. You may not notice it, but this will cause the piece to slide as you continue pushing through the cut and the result is that it’s not square.

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile

joeyinsouthaustin

1080 posts in 574 days


#13 posted 57 days ago

If you find your saw conforms to the recommendations above (parrallel to slot, mitre square to blade {use what some here call 5 cut method to check for square, not a square}) then examine technique. If the ripped sides of the piece are not parrallel, and you are cutting two ends, it can come out out of square. My thoughts there. If you find the saw is accurate… a good account of how you cut and tested might help the crowd solve this problem. Happy safe cutting!

-- Who is John Galt?

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2271 posts in 2244 days


#14 posted 57 days ago

See using your guage and dial indicator – is your blade running parallel to the miter slot.

the mitre GUAGE angel to the blade is misleading you, if as the guage moves in the mitre slot, it is basically moving AWAY from the blade (or closer)

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

View Grumpymike's profile

Grumpymike

958 posts in 817 days


#15 posted 57 days ago

+1 on Bruce and JayT. I had the same problem with a ridged 2424 … After four or five attempts at squaring the blade using the trunnions and a combo square, I bought a dial indicator, then things started to straighten out.
As your manual states, step #1 is to square the blade to the miter slot by loosening the trunnions slightly and tapping them till the blade is exactly square to the miter slot. (If you are .001 off here you will be .010 off on the cut.)(also make sure that your blade isn’t tweeked, I see that you are using an old blade, bad sign, heat warps a blade. ... borrow a new blade.)
Now that the blade is square to the miter slot you can square the fence and the miter gauge.
The instructions for this first adjustment to your saw is near the end of the assembly instructions in your manual. (page 23 in my book)
I know that adjusting the trunnions is a knuckle buster and frustrating, but take your time here because every adjustment to your saw hinges on this setting. Please make sure that the arbor washers are clean and setting squarely on the arbor.
Good luck and keep us posted on the results.

-- Grumpy old guy, and lookin' good Doin' it.

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