Dust collection pvc fitting with gasket

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Forum topic by jonsprague0000 posted 02-19-2014 03:43 PM 2870 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View jonsprague0000's profile


104 posts in 1558 days

02-19-2014 03:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: pvc dust collection gasket sdr35 dust cyclone dust duct duct

I am in the process of setting up dust collection piping for my Grizzly dust collector. I am using 6” sdr35 pvc pipes and am trying to connect them to sdr35 pvc wyes with a gasket in the wye. I can’t fit the pipe into the wye because it is too tight. I can fit the pipe in if I take out the gasket.

Does anyone know how to connect a pipe into a wye with a gasket? I feel like the only way I could get it in is hammer it and that just seems wrong.

Also, I am having trouble figuring out how to connect my 6” Onieda clear flex pipe to the sdr35 6” pvc. The flex pipe can’t be stretched over the outside of the pvc. Does anyone have a solution to this?

15 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4955 posts in 2462 days

#1 posted 02-19-2014 05:12 PM

I think you should return those gasketed fittings and get the ones called “solvent weld” (no gaskets). then seal the seams with a bead of silicon around it. If there’s a load on the fitting, like a drop, then put some short sheet metal screws in it to hold the drop. As for the flex, try getting a 6” coupling and force the flex into it… a heat gun helps. Then put the coupling onto the pipe. Back to the gasketed fittings, they are tough to deal with, especially when you try to make changes to the system at a later date…..then you get to fight them in dis assembly and re assembly.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View pmayer's profile


1026 posts in 3034 days

#2 posted 02-19-2014 06:18 PM

+1 Fred. Gaskets aren’t needed. I also use the approach that Fred describes, slipping the flex pipe into a coupling. This works well.

I also occasionally make slits into the end of the PVC pipe itself, perhaps 1” apart, all the way around the perimeter, cutting into the pipe about 3-4”. The put a hose clamp around the pipe and squeeze it together. The slits that you made should allow the pipe to “shrink” down enough from this pressure that the flex tube will fit over it. This approach takes a bit more time but it works great and avoids the coupler use.
You can see an example of a pipe that has been sliced up in this fashion here:

-- PaulMayer,

View generic's profile


105 posts in 1567 days

#3 posted 02-19-2014 06:44 PM

SDR PVC is typically used for sanitary laterals. There is a lubricant that is usually put on the seal to help the piple slide in. In the field contractors ustally us a excavator to push the pipe together, though it can be done with a pry bar as well. Long story short, the pipe will slide in, it just takes some force.

View jonsprague0000's profile


104 posts in 1558 days

#4 posted 02-19-2014 09:40 PM

Thanks, this helps a lot. That’s interesting to hear that contractors usually use an excavator.

Any ideas if I will run into problems if I just pull out the gaskets and connect?

I have a couple of questions about using the coupler to connect the pvc and flex hose. – How do you get the flex pipe to stay inside the coupler? – How do you seal any gaps between the flex and the coupler since you can’t use a clamp to get a tight fit?

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2940 days

#5 posted 02-19-2014 11:57 PM

As said earlier, you can leave the gasket out and put a bead of silicone in its place.

Or, if you really want to use the gasket, lube it up with some of that slime they use for pulling wire through conduit, seal all the openings and pull a vacuum on the pipe. The atmospheric pressure outside pushing against the vacuum inside will pull it together.

View changeoffocus's profile


467 posts in 1586 days

#6 posted 02-20-2014 12:11 AM

I’ve been at the piping business for a long time, using the vacuum to set the joints is slick idea. Who says old dogs can’t learn new tricks.

View Loren's profile


10278 posts in 3617 days

#7 posted 02-20-2014 01:03 AM

I use vaseline jelly sometimes to fit DC fittings, usually when
it’s difficult to get a good grip to push them together dry.

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2456 days

#8 posted 02-20-2014 01:51 AM

Remember going to Dr. Squint the proctologist? And his really cool purple glove? Well, cool until you found out what that glove does.
And the way he use to examine portions of your manly anatomy you really should never have explored?

Well, Bunky~ The slick’em that he used on the glove is the absolute best stuff to use.

The name of it is also the abbreviation for the state that is due south of Indiana and has a town in it named Louisville.

I wonder why they named it that odd name? I sure don’t know. Maybe it has something to do with a king or a queen, maybe like ruPaul. We’re talking about the slickem, not the town!

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2819 days

#9 posted 02-20-2014 05:27 AM

This effort to seal the DC piping indicates that we’re forgetting the stuff isn’t under pressure and risking spewing dust all over your just shellacked armoire. Nope, it’s suction you got there. I prefer just putting the two parts together and wrapping them with” 3 stretch wrap. It’s pretty easy to remove when it’s time to redesign, add a leg, or dismantle it to get a chicken bone that’s stuck on a diagonal.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4955 posts in 2462 days

#10 posted 02-20-2014 12:36 PM

When you force the flex into the coupler, you’ll find the fit so tight it stays on it’s own accord. I have 1 or 2 places where I ran a sheet metal screw through the coupler through the coupling into the flex, but most of them are press fit. Also, since the flex has that spiral rib, it actually seals very well in the coupling. If you want you could also applky a small amount of silicone around it to seal.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View woodman88's profile


144 posts in 2617 days

#11 posted 02-20-2014 02:04 PM

As a long time excavater all you need to do is bevel the cut end of the pipe slightly and alittle lube liquid dish soap works well it willgo together by hand it just takes some force

View johnstoneb's profile


2871 posts in 2142 days

#12 posted 02-20-2014 02:09 PM

x1 Fred Hargis. This stuff hsa no pressure why go to the extra expense on the gasketed pipe when you are under a slight vacuum and relying on that and velocity to move the material.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View pmayer's profile


1026 posts in 3034 days

#13 posted 02-20-2014 07:57 PM

“How do you get the flex pipe to stay inside the coupler? – How do you seal any gaps between the flex and the coupler since you can’t use a clamp to get a tight fit?”

In my case the flex pipe has enough friction to fit within the coupler without any additional fastener. You could wrap it with duct tape or similar if you need to reinforce it. The ones that I have set up this way work well, leak very little, and have not required any reinforcement or sealing. And using a coupler makes for a great quick-release fitting. I much prefer this approach over other means of connecting up tools to DC.

-- PaulMayer,

View jonsprague0000's profile


104 posts in 1558 days

#14 posted 02-20-2014 08:21 PM

Thanks everyone. I now have some good options to try this weekend. I’ll let you know which method I end up choosing.

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 3554 days

#15 posted 02-20-2014 09:12 PM

No need for vaseline ! a little dishwashing liquid works great. Also when you get the pipes fitted drill a few very small holes and insert a few self tapping screws which can very easily be dismantled it works really well.Try it yourself. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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